Alan

Admin help, I have a 2006 Monterey 250 CR (RGFCB668K506) need gelcoat colors (#'s) and vinyl seat colors (#'s). Thank you.

Trying to remove lounge back on 250 CR. I have the arm rest and lounge bottom off however, no success on the back. I see where the clips are and it appears the back lifts upwards to remove though it will not move and I do not want to force and break something. Any one ever removed their lounge back? Help appreciated.

Hello 2007 250 CR: There is only one type of adhesive which will do the trick, SUREHOLD Plastic Surgery, you can purchase it at any ACE Hardware store. The hatch is Acrylic and this adhesive is for acrylics. Be sure though to clean off the existing adhesive as best as possible on both surfaces before applying the Plastic Surgery. I have an 2006 250 Cr and found this myself in a previous blog here on the site, my repair was made March of 2010 and holding strong. Good luck and Happy Boating. Alan

Hello Flatheadhoser: These lights are standard and the switch is port side below the sink counter top right side of the refrigerator They are low voltage so if it is not night time you may have a hard time seeing they are on. If you do not have a manual, you can dowload one here in the forum under cruiser manuals. Hope this helps. Happy Boating Alan

Hello amanphoto: One year ago when I made this initial entry, if I had taken your suggested method then, I am assured today, I would not remain a boat Owner. If you care to look up in "Technical Discussion" under 250 CR Windlass, back in September 2011, Dodgeo6 entry regarding his 06 250 CR windlass endeavors, you can read my path chosen to successfully wire and install my 2006 250 CR windlass. I believe any other path and method used may be harmful to ones mental health. With all that said, welcome to this forum and Happy Boating. Alan

Hi Rip5: Is this someone you know who would give credible feed back on such a (as you put it) custom install. It is interesting, especially the exhaust adapter with the 90 degree bend. I would only guess Honda techs would not approve. Wonder how the electrical connects to the Honda. Live long enough and you may get to see it all. Alan

I appreciate all the comments and the boat who pulled anchor and left was a boat similar in size to mine. Being night time when they left, I could not tell as to why they moved nor did I see them the next morning. Though for me the inevitable may just be a larger size boat with built in gen possible 320 as Rip5 mentioned. Good luck to all with your boating season up north, here in northeast Fla. it's boating season year round and as gas prices continue to rise, it brings hesitation thinking of a twin engine consumption to feed. HA, my 06 250CR w/ 350 MPI Bravo III, utilizing the Honda gen will be my ticket for now or at least until I hit a big money Lotto. Happy Boating to all. Alan

Hello Aussie Heath: In case you have not already found these Goggle search the following: Premier Ship Models Scale Reproductions LLC SD Model Makers Nice boat, even up side down or as you say Down Under. Cheers and Happy Boating. Alan

Hi RSUMRTOY2: The Honda has always performed well and the best part about the Honda, it's paid for, the issue though remains, potential hazard to my wife, others and myself. As stated earlier, if the unit I am looking at will work, I believe the pros will out way the cons even considering the cost. I was hoping to have found someone who may have installed one in a cruiser same size as mine. For know I will continue my do diligence with this task or simply up grade to a larger boat with a built in gen. I appreciate your input. BTW, how's boating up north this time of year, sounds like you guy's have had a mild winter. Alan

Hello Rip5: If I decide to go through with this, I will have a professional installer fit my boat. And beleive me, if I could get this done professionally for what you have stated $3,000.00, I would have it in the shop already. The Westerbeke 3.0 MVP new runs $6,000.00, plus all the electrical accessories which go with it not to mention installation. And yes, it would be worth it, I like my boat, size, fuel economy and being able to trailer it to other places in the state such as down south to the Key's. The only other option would be going larger which brings good and bad, although I may just be delaying the obvious moving into a larger boat with pre-installed generator. Thanks for the input and if I change I will post my results. Happy Boating Alan

Hello RSUMRTOY2: Last out on hook over the week end I ran the Honda about 8 hours straight. And yes I strap it down off the swim platform with the exhaust pointing out. In all the times I have used the Honda I have had no issues at all, however, the last time out using it after anchoring and setting up the gen on the back and getting running, a fellow boater pulled up anchor and moved further from where we were at. He had no gen and I believe he simply moved away for their own peace of mind. If I make a decision regarding this I will post the results with pictures. Alan

Hello Artemus: No my 250 CR is not pre-wired for a gen. I believe if I do such it will be performed by some one professional who is qualified to in stall a marine generators. Alan

Hello Boat Enthusiasts: I have owned a 250 CR for over one year and enjoy the boat. My wife and I have spent several week ends over night on hook utilizing a portable generator (Honda EU2000) with out incidence. However I am becoming more concern for our safety and others around us also on hook. My question is has any one considered or completed such a task installing a proper marine generator on this size boat. I have been looking into the Westerbeke gasoline 3.0 BPMG 60 Hz at 165 lbs dry weight with a foot print of: 24-1/2"L x 13-1/2" W x 14-1/2" T. It appears this unit will fit on the port side with re-orienting the water tank. Would like to hear positive and / or negative responses regarding this consideration. Satisfied Monterey 250 CR Owner Alan

Hello GetAway: I have seen the ones you are referring to and I am debating whether or not to go that route or put in a rode counter. I could kick my self for not installing two additional wires while installing the windlass wiring. Alan

Hello J-Phil: Most likely the switch you are seeing is on the main electrical panel. The panel is standard and has a toggle switch breaker for A/C. You would know if you have an A/C it would be located under the starboard or port side V-berth seat. If you have an A/C you will see a control panel with arrows for up and down temperature control on it. When you purchased the boat did the advertisement indicate A/C? If so, you got one. Good luck. Alan

Hello J-Phil: You can purchase just about any Monterey emblem you desire from your Monterey Parts Dealer or simply go on EBay and search " Monterey Boat Emblems" or "Monterey Boat Accessories" where you will find several options of Monterey emblems for sale. Good luck and keep up the enthusiasm. Alan

Hello 'bfarr': This may or may not help however, if you do not have a manual you can down load one for your specific vessel here in the forum under "Cruiser Manuals". You will then need to list all of the options your boat has on it (ie. A/C, type head, # of batteries and so on) and go from there. I have a 2006 250 Cr and it's dry weight with all options is 6,460 lbs. I also have a EZ Loader tandem axle Aluminum Beam trailer rated at 9,400lbs GVWR. I keep the boat in dry storage however, when I bought the boat it came with the trailer and I pulled the boat on it's trailer 300 miles one way and it pulled solid. I also used it a few times before I realized a boat of it's size is challenging to be hauled around each time you go out and can place a strain on ones married status during launching procedures. Thus I secured a covered dry storage at a local marina and after 35 years of marriage, I remain happily married. The one thing I can pass on to you is what ever trailer you decide on, do not go cheep on the tires. Proper size and quality brand of tire may save you a not so good experience while pulling your boat on it's trailer over the road. Good luck with your 245 CR and happy boating. Alan

Hello Peter: The Lewmar V700 is the same I used and it works fine. The instructions however are some what miss leading in stating a 4 amp fuse is to be used in the circuit. After calling Lewmar tech and they informing me this was a misprint that no fuse was required, I was able to complete the install and it works perfect. As mentioned in my previous post, I installed a 50 amp fuse holder at the windlass on both wires for future disconnect if ever I needed to remove the windlass. In addition I made a vinyl wedge for the windlass base to over come the locker shelf slope per the install instruction. The vinyl you can get at Home Depot, the material comes in 2" x 8", I also had a stainless steel perforated 12ga plate formed to fit the bottom of the anchor locker as a rode shelf to assists in keeping the rode dry and a flat surface for it to fold on. The breaker which comes with the windlass serves well as a disconnect when you do not need the circuit energized. The only item I am looking into at this time would be a swivel connection at the anchor. I have a 200' rode with 20' chain and hopefully this will limit the twists occurring in the rode during retrieval, bunching up in the anchor locker and at times stopping the retrieval process. Once I get it worked out I will post my results. The windlass is the best, I can not even imagine boating without one. Alan

Peter: I can understand an early start on winter prep is paramount in your reigin. Here in north Florida, freeze conditions are few and far between, some of us simply just zip in our enclosures and go boating on a routine schedule through the winter to keep components active. When I purchased my 250 CR, the windlass was one of the project items, I found it appropriate to add a high water bilge alarm along with up dating the Bennett Trim Tabs with the EIC5000. The bilge was for safety sake with an added alarm if bilge pump(s) in some way failed while asleep on hook. The trim tab up grade was something for me to look at while under way with the auto retrack a nice feature. I look forward to seeing your project pics in the spring time. Alan

Hello 'Dodge06': I have no PIC's however, I have experience. I own a 2006 250 CR and found the route the hard way, none the less, the following is the only path to take. I used a 3/8" CPVC pipe (approximately 12') duct taped both #14 marine grade wire to one end of the pipe fed it through the engine compartment up and along the starboard side guiding it to the location of the cable access at the console. You must remove the access panel on the dash which has the trim tabs and ignition switch. You must remove the rubber wire gromnet guide behind the dash where the wires pass into the back of the console. With one person pussing the pipe carefully towards the helm another person must reach through the wire access at the helm and assist guiding the pipe which you what to land pass the helm and behind the head cavity area to the cabin trim just above the V berth starboard back seat rest next to the head wall. You must remove the cabin trim which is about 4"'s wide and made of vinyl secured by screws. At each lap in the trim is were you will find the attachment screws. Remove all screws and you will find the path to the anchor locker. Once the pipe with wire duct tape to it is landed at the point were the trim is removed next to the head compartment you can remove the duct tape and pull the wire through. At this point the pipe is no longer needed and can be pulled back out. Pull the wire towards the bow and feed the wire into the anchor locker were the trim ended and covers the gap seperating the cabin and anchor locker. One person must reach into the anchor locker and grab the wire pulling the wire fully into the anchor locker. When you are ready to reinstall the vynle trim in the cabin, be carefull not to place any of the screws into the wiring. In connecting the windlass motor wiring to the #14 wire I placed an inline fuse holder (with fuse) to connect the wires which serves as an easy disconnect when the time comes. I hope this has helped in some way for when I set out on this journey I asked the same question and received no responses. If this helps you I am glad to do so. Let know how if it worked for you. Good luck, have plenty of patience and happy boating. Alan

Hello '2007 250 CR': If you do not have an Owner's manual for your vessel, simply down load one here in under "Cruiser Owner manuals". In the manual you will find the factory's layout of the AC, its control panel along with wiring information. The manual is not real clear on the unit location however it goes under the starboard front cousin / storage area of the V berth. I am surprised your 250 CR does not have an AC however, you may want to look into AC units on line and download installation instructions to get a better idea with regards to your AC install. Also, does your 250 CR have a windlass, if not I can possibly save you a lot of trouble routing the wiring if your boat does not already have a windlass wiring harness in place. Good luck and happy boating. Alan

Hello 'kitos': I cannot comment on the 245CR however I can on the 250CR. I own a 2006 250CR with 350 MAG MPI Bravo III and love it. In looking at both boats I would say the two are similar if not the same. The 350 MAG is roughly 20 HP more than the 5.0 Volvo, and depending on what you are doing with the boat may determine if the 20HP difference is a factor. Top speed with my boat is 41nots and cruising is around 36nots which is most efficient. I believe the 250CR weights a little more however, you would have to know how and what options the 245CR you are looking at is equipped with to determine weight. In either case, if the 245CR is in good condition hull wise and mechanically and the price is right, you cannot go wrong. The only suggestion I would have for you would be to go on a sea trial to see the different characteristics of a Small cruiser like the 245CR / 250 CR versus the Montura 210. The height versus the width on plane is something you need to experience and understand. I can say with proficient trim tab control it is nothing more than getting use to as all the other particulars in owning and operating a cruiser like the 245CR and 250CR. Good luck in your decision and happy boating. Alan

Hello CitationX: If you do not have an Owners Manual for your boat, look under "Product Support Downloadable's" (in this forum) under "Cruiser Owner Manuals" and click on 242CR and it should assist you in becoming familiar with your boat. I have found use of the the manual (as my guide) along with hands on experience has been my best way to learn about my boat. Good luck, welcome and happy boating. Alan

Hello jbauman102: If you do not have an Owner's manual for your 268SS, look under "Super Sport Owner Manuals" here in and I believe you will find the manual that applies to the boat you have and simply down load it. Good luck with your project. Alan

Hi Ian Most likely it has no affect on attracting Bass. Though, this weekend I could have drawn a diagram of a similar installation on hook nearby, removed the offensive noise maker and gladly shipped it off to 180FS in Nashville with my compliments. BTW, Ian how's boating life down under, you guys are always entertaining. Cheers Alan