kelleyja
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Posts posted by kelleyja
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Transducers are normally installed as close to the aft keel as possible so the beam shoots directly down. It is likely epoxied in the hull under the engine.
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Mine does the same thing, I don't think the forward bilge and aft bilge are connected
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The short answer is that starting batteries are made to produce high peak current and DC batteries are made to maintain constant power over a longer period of time. VP likely doesn't care about our stereos, head, fridge, etc.....they want to limit warranty/service claims. Its a classic CYA guideline.
That being said, not all batteries and setups are created equal. I'm sure there are DC batteries out there that outperform starting batteries and vice versa. You sound like you have fresh batteries that can be topped off with the genset if needed. My opinion of that situation is that DCs are ok, you want to make sure that the battery can maintain the specified current for your engine in a starting situation. Your engine elec manual should specify the starting current (IIRC its 650amps) - so if your DC's can provide that current for however long it takes to start after running your electronics - you're good.
Some of the automakers make this recommendation as well, if low voltage/current is provided to the ICs in the 'puter - those circuits work harder, heat up, crack solder or just plain fail.
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You should post a pic, maybe someone has one left over from their gauge replacement projects
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Those wires are not connected and will terminate in the helm around where your ignition key is. I wouldn't use them to power a windlass because they are too small, but I use mine to control the directional solenoid.
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My biggest concern would be mooring that boat in salt water full time. Personally I wouldn't keep a sterndrive powered boat in salt water. The zincs, coatings and anti corrosion efforts help, but in the end the saltwater always wins. Since the drive and transom assembly will have more contact with the water you'll likely be replacing them before the manifolds and risers.
You can certainly fit that boat with freshwater cooling, usually the closed cooling systems still take in raw water then dump it via the manifolds and risers. So in most cases you'd just be protecting the block.
If it were my money I'd put it into a trailer or a boat lift and keep the whole thing out of the water. Flush it with fresh water after every run and the whole thing will last many years.
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The boat does not need to touch the cross member, the bunks and bow roller will support it
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It looks like a check valve, you should be able to pick one up at your local hardware store.... you could remove it and leave it out, its certainly not required.
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sounds like a safety switch to me, check for malfunctioning water flow or temperature sensors. There are probably access points to recharge the refrigerant, but that wouldnt cause the compressor to cycle after 5 sec.
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You can have the shore power and the DC circuits on at the same time. They are completely separate systems and will not interfere with each other.
The shore power use depends on your needs. Plenty of folks in a wet slip leave drinks in the fridge and power on always to keep them cool. I keep the shore power when needed to top off my batteries.
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Try fpmarine.com and search for bi-fold doors.
They have a dozen different models, I'm not sure if any are a direct replacement but you could call them and ask for measurements.
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Old thread but I'll hop in here....
I would suspect that there is a jumper stud somewhere in the boat. Even the most incompetent marine mechanic would put one in with the electric hatch. Look next to the battery switches.
If that doesn't work find your battery disconnect switches. Unscrew them, there you will find your positive battery leads. Connect your jumper, and find a ground (use your outdrive if you have to).
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Welcome!
I have a 1998 276 Cruiser, and I have run it with standard rotation AND counter rotating props. I have volvo outdrives so it is easier for me to switch rotation. From experience I can tell you that there is a difference, but it is minor. Its a little more straight and true when taking off from a dead stop and around the docks its a little more predictable. The boat handles well without the counter roaring props.
An F-150 will certainly move this boat, but I wouldn't go on the highway with it. When I first got my boat, I actually towed it home one winter (16 miles) with a V6 4Runner. I took the side streets and never got over 35MPH, everything went fine. I also towed it with a 5.4 F-150 that I picked up from UHaul, my towing experience was similar with the F-150 except I got less strange looks on the road. Still I wouldn't want to tow at high speed or over a distance with the 150. If you live a few miles from the ramp, the F-150 (or even a 4Runner) will work fine. You'll get up to speed just fine, the challenge with towing is controlling the load on turns, bumps and expansion joints. That 30' of boat behind you works like a big lever and wants to bounce the tow vehicle all over the place. I tow now from FL to OH with a diesel Excursion, which makes for a much more stress-free ride.
The main thing I would look for in these boats is water infiltration. Look in the bilge, look under the cabin seats, look in the shower sump compartment. They tend to leak around the windows (do a search on this forum), hatches, and rub rail.
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Impossible to tell without the make of your A/C - but most are not "sealed."
If the fan is running and the compressor is not here are a couple of things to check.
1 - visually inspect the system if you see corrosion, then its likely that the compressor is ruined due to air/water infiltration.
2 - Check to make sure your raw water cooling pump is supplying water to the heat exchanger at startup. You should see a strong stream of water exiting the boat, when the A/C is on. The compressor will not run without the cooling water.
3 - get a clip on ammeter and measure the amps that the A/C unit pulls on startup. If the A/C unit pulls high amps then stops, find out what is dousing the overload (see points 1 & 2) If the A/C unit doesn't draw significant amps, the compressor is not trying to start look for a breaker, fuse, wiring. etc.
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generator is missing and I'm wondering what the original equipment consisted of and what everyone is currently doing for replacement units.
The 4-5kw Kohlers will fit and are what I usually see installed on these boats. Mine had a Kohler 5ESZ
Also, the camper top and hardware is missing and we'd like to get a new camper cover made but we really do not know how much is missing or needed.
Your best bet would be to have a new one made - to do a full camper, you'll need the bimini over the cockpit then an aft bimini that zips together with the main one. Curtains for the back and sides, clear vinyl all around the cockpit bimini.
And finally, what gps units will fit into the factory bezel to the left of the helm? although that seems awkward to see its better than the small unit currently screwed to the top of the dash that I can't read due to sun glare.
That would be akward to see, any of the 5" models should fit there. Take off the dash panel and measure the depth, it doesnt go back as far as it looks. I have my VHF there, so there is some space, just not as much as you'd think. I've often contemplated flush mounting one in on the right side above the engine throttles, but I ended up with it on top of the dash. The newer gps units are much better in the sun, than the older ones.
What radar setup original came with these boats of this year and where would it have been mounted. I want to try ans bring it back to original configurations.
I've seen a few 276s set up with factory radar arch, not many though. If you're set on having radar, one that displays on your plotter would be best as dash space is at a premium.
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probably not shared. It's likely a thru hull, look for a black plastic puck glued inside the hull at the lowest point near the keel. Look under your engine
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Tim,
I know by now you are likely well past this problem, but I had a question for you as I cannot get power to my radio. I know the stereo has a fuse behind the unit, but I cannot seem to locate a fuse panel either. Do they exist on Monterey boats? If you found where yours is at, can you share? Thanks.
On the 276, you'll have a breaker on the AC/DC panel (labeled stereo) and possibly a fuse on the Stereo chassis itself/power lead. The breaker will trip to the off position should an overcurrent condition exist.
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I have recently bought a second hand 2005model 180FS.
All looked fine after a test run and taking it home but after the second run I noticed the leg had dropped and that there is oil seeping from the bung and I suspect through my bilge.
Apart from the obvious check for leaks, I have no manuals for the engine (Volvo Penta 4.3GL), or the power tilt drive, so I have no idea what I need to do to correctly operate and or maintain either.
Does any one know where I can find the manuals?
If there is visible leakage, fixing that would be a good place to start. I usually place newspapers underneath the drive (outside of the boat), then underneath the hydraulic pump inside the boat and watch for oil drips. If its leaking where the hydraulic line connects to the cylinder or the pump, disconnect those lines and replace the small rubber o-ring inside, torque to 100 in/lbs and your leak should be gone.
If you have no visible leakage, its probably internal to the cylinder or valve body (pump). Both can be serviced, but are a little more involved.
You can buy a manual at volvopentastore.com
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I looking at shipping a 1999 Monrtery 276 with a Radar Arch,
the shipper is asking for the Height of the boat, can't seem to find that anywhere.
Boat is not local, so I cant go out and measure it.
Is this on a trailer? My 276 stands about 13-14 feet tall with my camper top up, on the trailer. I don't have an arch but its a similar height.
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MOST, can you tell me the make and model of the portlights on a 1998 276 Cruiser - mine are leaking and need replacement
Courtesy Lights- 2002 302
in Technical Discussion
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Optronics RV light, available at etrailer.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Lighting/Optronics/2407764B.html