red298sc

Had the same problem with my 2005 298sc....My configuration is a 2 drive mercruiser mag350 with bravo 3.....so I saw the green traces of lube oil in the bilges too. and looked and looked but did not find until I reached back and tugged on the drive oil resevoir lube lines, when I tugged on the right hand drive line it broke free at the transom.....seems it was cracked at a disconnect which is also a 90 degree feed...if you know what the transom plate looks like, the oil feed is a QD 90 just righ (starboard) and under the raw water line...which is right (starboard) of the drive line....this keeps it all clear from the steering arm...however, if its not routed just right around the steering arm on the left (port) of the arm and (in my case) dual steering link, it may be pulled by the linkage. So in my case I pulled the 90 deg QD...halve off the transom and pulled the oil line out and replaced the QD and reattached and ziptied all so as to facilitate all movement of the steering mech. This is MUCH easier said then done....I had bruises on my chest and cuts on my arms for a week afterward. but saved the hundereds of dollars it would've cost to have the shop take care of .....got the part free from em too. I love my marina. Note that there is one other quick disconnect betweed the transom connectiona and the resevoir bottle on the front and that connection is just at the back of the engine block. This only applies to Mercruiser. I would pull the top plug on the drive and ensure oil comes out. just so you know the drive did not blow oil out and cavitate the drives oiling supply...... boat out of water for this one. i had to pay to pull the boat. and check but I am now confident good fix. Oil resevoir level is stable now and bilges are cleaning up as I absorb oil.....2 weeks into on this date. My best to you........

My 2005 leaked to, I ended up pulling the 5 items off the top of the arch, (sirus ant, Navman Ant, Spotlight base, Anchor light and TV ant) one at a time and sealed the bases with silicone. I pulled them off so I could get the silicone around the screw holes as well as between the component and the arch...It fixed that problem for me. I had water dripping from the access hole (square) and the port overhead light. One note: don't over tighten any of the 4 access hole screws...The white 8 inch by 8 inch Lexan piece because it will crack it. I did just that. now I am looking for a new peice of lexan to cut. No big deal but a mistake I would rather have not made.

The cleat Housing is mounted to the Hull with 9/16 thruhull bolts/nuts with double 2 inch or so stainless fender washers as backing, under each of the two threaded housing mounts. The pull up portion of the cleat is retained within the housing via straightlslotted screw under each pull up point...there is a stainless steel washer and a rubber scraper/grommet above the screw. These do the actual retaining. The aft cleat is not hooked to a drain sump, and the mid ship cleat is by means of friction fit fittings in the lower end of the cleat wells and this is tied to one another and drained into the sumps. Aft cleat was left open, to drain into the engine compartment. My opine here, but the cleat is so well built as far as the rubber and washer scraper that I can't see a whole lot of water entering through the cleat so its not a big deal for it to be open in the engine compartment. I would ensure the strait slot retainer bolts get loctited so they never back out if you have one taken apart. These cleats were also White silicone rubbered in place upon installation, (at factory).

Go to next paragraph...this one is just the thinking.....Didn't we, at one time, in cars put across Pos and Neg at alternator a 4.7 uFarad capacitor to cancel....sink the noise to ground. If your noise is from the batt charger you might try this 1960/70's tried and true technique....whats happening is the ripple voltage on top of the charge from the batt charger is being picked up by the amplification circuits of the radio ant thats what you are hearing. A more technical way would be to build and RC circuit of resistor and Capacitor and put it at the 12vdc input to the radio.....better yet, Get a power side noise "Choke" and install it in the 12vdc input...if you have a memory and constant put one on each side of the Radio power. this ought to solve your problem. You can find these at radio shack last time I checked, about 10 years ago....Most new stereos have them installed on the power side already. Its a square box, inline on the 12VDC side(s). If its a radiated "antenna" noise... what I am suggesting won't help....what I suggested will clean the line noise a charger or something may be putting on the 12vdc side. Good luck with it. Like the previous post said....ENSURE every ground is clean and tight. Thats where Noise comes from 99% of time, be it Boat, car, airplane or house,.... You will not ever get AM perfect because there is always some "noisy" widget putting out noise close to AM assigned frequencies. Keep us posted. We'd all like to learn...

I know a lot about this particular one. As I had an sr903 that was inoperative. Turns out the unit and the antenna was bad, The antenna line was twisted, (spun the antenna instead of the lock nut, I think upon installation) and the SR903 was dead. So I got on EBAY and ordered the SR903...was about 10 or 15 bucks for the winning bid (I won two by mistake at the about the same price), so now I have a spare. Also the antenna I replaced with an EBAY item, which turns out was the older style antenna. Here is a learning curve differences class. Read the control unit intructions, if you can hook up a 903 then I'll send you my spare free...I never tested it. heres the nitty gritty on how they actually work.... I beleive the 902 uses two antenna lines labelled "SAT" and "TER" for Sattelite and Terrestrial so it probably "says" it needs both antenna connections, I believe the TER system is pretty much disabled. Besides when are you going have a sky view block where you need Terrestial IN A Boat. The older style Ant has two lines on it labelled the same, the newer antennas have only one. So I bid on an older style Marine Antenna as well and received it. It had the SAT and TER connection on it So at first I thought it wouldn't work, till I tested on my cars Brand new Sirius system with the antenna sitting on the dash from DC to Philly with the TER not connected, I had one drop out in the open. So I used an older style antenna on the newer style 903 and it works perfect. heres the diff. Evidently Sirius went away from the Terrestrial side and specified their antennas with only one connector. But noone seems to know that the dual line antennas (older) work fine with the single ant receivers (newer). Except for me cause I tested the dual antenna on my single receiver units in the car and Boat. Simply leave the TER connector Unconnected, and connect only SAT. Works perfect. And when you call Sirius with your SID make sure you ask for the Kenwood Setup special. I think its like 15 every three months....This really worked out to my benefit.

Any Idea where I can get a replacement pull up cleat for my 2005 298SC.....Hint don't put too much vertical load on these. A guy was helping me and tied it off straight up from the cleat. Instead of a pole down for a vertical load. Now I KNOW.

Aaaaah, I have dug into and found some very interesting things, If you want to adjust Graffig Throttles with a mercruiser setup here is the best and worked for me from 700 rpm thru the 5200 RPM rated by mercruser on thier 350 MPI.... First and foremost, all of this information is from one piece of fax from Graffig and what I could glean out of a mercruiser installation manual. I did ask a local mercrueser Racing dealer and emailed other companies and I could not glean any more information from them except to try, and mess with things. So with that information I did. This info has nothing to do with reverse/forward nuetral linkage. Please do not confuse. First, there were only two adjustments within the linkage side of the house, the one at the engine, (the START of pull on butterfly (butterfly of throttle). And an adjustment at the throttle which is the Actual THROW on pull on throttle Butterfly. This mechanical adjustment is an entirely inexact science at best, but, to get better you would have to marry up sparks and mpi (sync motors). Which still hasn't anything to do with balancing horsepower, and I will absolutely not get into the appartii for balancing horsepower, (especially on a 350 mpi) suffice my guess to be a torsional bar with a strain gauge,,,(I used to use these for HELOs but in the 1200 HP range. Sooooo, here is how I got my engines, as indicated on the dash within 100 rpm indicated throughout the entire range. Always lube with "a silicone based lube" per Graffig, the slots the throttles and shifters move through, It will save you agravation getting the boots back in place, in the least, maybe at best a torn boot, go buy it now. First I figured out what that little set screw that you can see at full throttle (down in the slide slot) actually does. I never did find a detent, so correct me someone please. I hate to admit but all it did for me was allow me to loosen and tighten the throttle resistance. If anyone has anymore info let me know, so first I adjusted to real loose, Counter clockwise one turn till your good and they are both even, (anti clockwise if your British). When I was all finished with my adjustments I chose to tighten to a stiffer throttle, because I did not like anything to be that loose, especially if I am not always the one at the throttle in and out of gear. I do NOT believe revving an engine can be good and do not want it to be "HIT" to rev up by mistake. Thats just me. The set screw worked good for that too. Second tape the throttles together So they move at exactly the same time, (i didn't actually do this, I was just crazy enough to, run for and aft to look at them incessantly 2 or 3 thousand times to make sure they were EXACTLY the same, then adjust, at the motor throttle linkage to the butterfly, by spinning the AFT mount of the cable in or out on the cable (GRAB YOUR 3.8 OR 7/16) so that Port and Starboard motor Throttle moves the end connected to the butterfly valve at the exact same time and directly off of about 1/4 inch of throttle movement which is tight, my friend. Don't worry about full throw at this time. Just when each motor COMES off of idle. Herein lies the Beauty of the Graffig. The Graffig throttleset is so so sensitive that you can almost feel the tension on the throttle when the butterfly starts to open. I NEVER THOUGHT OF LOCKING THEM IN TO ADJUST. Here is another thing, which I did not deal with may come up. I worked with almost new cables so I did not work with any stretch, if you cannot get the cable length described above move pull the throttles up and adjust the clevis' on full in till you can adjust the motors the same. If you don't understand that, pretend you already did this then move to next step and then repeat the whole thing. I did this to learn the system. EXTRA INFO WHICH is good but YOU DON'T NEED follows If you remember the old carter or eldel brock linkages on your car its the same linkage but OTHER side of motor, ...Butterfly just meters air, nowadays, the Mercruiser computer figures out how much gas to inject via MPI, instead of jets buried in some archaic float system likewise buried within the carburateur and having to be sucked into the venturis by some likewise old bernouli system. Besides you don't have to worry about ICING throught the Hi to Lo press zones at 37 degrees f.....now my aviation is showing through..... Second, Pull your throttles up....Grab a bunch of clean rags, keep in mind there are wires involved and GENTLY pull the 4 mount screws out Gentfully and carefully and pull them up. They are DEEP for good reason, what I ended up doing, was sitting them on the rags aforementioned to a little sideways so they would stay up. Being especially careful of the gentle wiring. With them up, Look at the throttle pull linkage, (by advancing the throttle) You will notice a brass clevis with a lock nut attached to the cable. This is attached and adjusted by removing the straight slot holding the clevis in place and, of course, loosening the lock nut. Make sure you locktight this Straight slot back in place when done, (USE LOCTITE 7) do not scrimp on this step. Now that you have all this out...decide which throttle you want to be the reference and adjust the other to it. I ran the engines with them up. Its siimple. Adjust Out or move clevis out on the slow to rise throttle one half turn at a time then reinstall and test.....loctite when done. HINT HINT HINT> If BOTH motors rise from idle to 1500 with equal throttle movement slowly under no load then you have married them for the most part. REASSEMBLE all and roll, this is where I am at and still find no fault through the full movement. of the throttle and motor. And they sound Darn good too. They aren't truely synchronised as I hear the harmonics, within thier frequencies, but they are real close and I am impressed..... They started out about 500 rpm off at 3500. Now other then computerizing, I can't get them closer. Afterinformation....There are full and end stops on your Graffrigs as youll notice, I did not adjust these at all. I noticed these did not have any effect on the throttly butterflies movement on either motor so I did not bother with them at all...your situation may be different I throw this out there so folks, who were interested would get an answer, Good luck fellow Montereyers.... If you have questions, reread about 2 times, ask me, then I will reread about 5 times. then get you an answer. They are GREAT Throttles and Great Motors, mounted in a great boat...I am way to picky for my own good.

I wish I could find this April 07 article....I searched but to no avail...

Eventually, to my elated surprise, I did recieve a fax of the install sheet from gaffrig, Everything seems straightforward from the install sheet. The procedure mercruiser breaks out wasn't much help, but that is probably because I am not able to start the motors at the present time. I did pull the throttles up out of the dash to view how they are adjusted, there is a little more to those throttles then meets the eye. The detent mentioned is something that can be adjusted through the throttle slide boot,. and appeard fairly straight forward from the install sheet. I'll post more when I actually attempt to adjust them. Can't be that hard right? Those are famous last words....

While I am still looking for the Install sheet and instructions...I no longer need specific help on the split...seems Mercruisers' documentation is presented in such a manner as to help me. Thank You all for reading and support. BTW Graffigs' site, Graffigperformance, does not contain any documentation that I could find.

Graffigs site wasn't helpful in that there wasn't a link to any documentation....When I emailed the contact there I received a bit of advice on how to adjust a detent at the throttle handle and a recommendation that I take it to Monterey to have them adjusted...and that he'd fax me an install sheet if I provided a number...which I did and I never received the fax. So while not discourteous, Graffigs site nor people were helpful. So what I was hoping for is a little help from Montereys MOST team. Heres the story, I have a 2005 298SC that has 350 Mag Hor installed....the throttles are Graffig but in the Documentation pouch (white Monterey bag) were the instructions for the Volvo installed throttles. Having 20 years of aviation mechanic and electrical experience I have synced a few engines and rigged a few throttles on twin jets, the cable version....now the're all electronic. Its also taught me to read first then grab the wrench so thats what I am trying to do....I know its probably not rocket science nor can it as hard as an "alpha" cutout shifter adjust...i just want the documentation, to perform it right the first time. Hull Number RGFCA284C505

Anyone have gaffrig throttle instuctions as installed in the 2005 298SC?