Ian
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Posts posted by Ian
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My Father in law has sold his 2003 190FS to me - It has the 5.0 Mercruiser motor-- I am trying to find a manual and parts diagram on the Mechanical components including the motor. I downloaded the maintenance manual provided on this website (thanks for making that available) but I need the manual for this particular engine and its components - please help - thanks- Allen
Mercruiser lets you order manuals online https://webapps.brunswick.com/litreq/navigate.do
or through their authorised dealers.
These are print versions. They no longer sell electronic versions (well at least not to the public)
Here is a link to a download site that has a lot of Mercruiser items BUT it is dated
http://www.4shared.com/dir/8iGasxP0/sharing.html
Look for Mercruiser Service Manual #31. This was current for the "small block V8" engines produced in 2001. I am not sure if it is applicable to your 2003. Check the list of model numbers given in the first few pages.
Finally, look around various bulletin boards of other boating groups and owners (not just here at Monterey). Bayliner owners club is a good site with lots of activity and people who dont mind helping fellow boaters
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OK, I have done what would be normal I think. I have washed the track with a garden hose and gotten all the dust, sand, miscellaneous garbage out of there. I have lubed the track with silicon spray, top and bottom.
The problem is that it is still sticking. It is fairly easy to open. It might be that you have more leverage than when closing but to close it using just that hand hold sometimes is very difficult.
Any suggestions on how to make this thing slide easier? I am not a little guy but it sure is a pain.
Thanks in advance!!
"Boobie Trap"
Lake Dallas, TX
It may be time to look at replacing the rollers - ask M.O.S.T for manufacturer details.
To check, when closing the door, try lightly lifting the door while closing it (or use 2 hands - one lightly lifting while other is sliding)
The easy open / hard close is most likely due door to the door being "over square" i.e. tall and narrow
When you open the door, the handle / catch position actually makes you 'lift' the door slightly, and therein take the pressure of the bad / sticky roller.
Conversely, when you close the door, there is an effective 'downforce', placing additional load on the roller.
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This may sound stupid, but since I am new to boating...what is the sump for? I took mine apart and cleaned it all out, it was GROSS! Full of hair etc...and stinking. I notice it sits in it's own compartment in the floor on my 282CR and there is water sitting in the compartment and not in the sump box, is this normal?
Thank you in advance for everyones help!
Hi rsumrtoy2,
The sump box (and included floatswitch / pump) is connected to the floor waste in the head.
As the floor of the head is below the waterline, it can't use gravity to drain, so you need the pump to 'push' it back uphill. Depending on the design of a boat, sumpboxes might also drain sink water etc., subject to where their individual waste outlets are in relation to the waterline.
When you use the shower (or put water on the floor of the head) it drains into the sump box. Once it starts to fill, it actuates the float switch and pumps out the water.
This would explain why it was full of hair.
If you didn't have a sump box, you would have to drain into the hull and rely upon the midsection bilge pump to remove shower water. As you have already discovered, shower water contains hair and the last thing you want is a bilge pump clogged with hair if you need it in an emergency.
The sump box also concentrates the volume of shower water into a smaller confined space so the pump works more effectively rather than having it roll around beneath your cabin floor until there was enough of it to actuate the mid cabin bilge pump.
If you look at the design of most bilge pumps, they generally never pump out the last 1/4" to 1/2" of water, so using a sump box makes sense. Keeping a 1/4" - 1/2" of water in the sump is a LOT less than keeping 1/4" - 1/2" of water over the whole area of your mid cabin bilge (this is a simplifed explanation. In fact recreactional hulls are generally sloped from bow to stern so any water will tend to migrate towards the rear of the vessell. This also helps designers decide location of bilge pumps)
As for your comment about water on the floor, this is NOT normal.
In theory, if your sumpbox floatswitch or pump is blocked (or malfunctioning), the sumpbox will fill and then overflow back up the inlet hose and back into your head floor indicating you have a problem. Depending upon the quality of the sumpbox, age of seal, pentrations made for wiring etc., sumpboxes can and do overflow into the mid cabin bilge. At this point, the emergency bilge pump will drain this overflow but remembering my 1/4" comments above, it will take a long time to get to that point AND it will never fully drain anyway.
This is the most likely scenario as to why you have water on the floor around the sumpbox.
Another likely cause is that someone has forgotten to operate the 12 volt sump breaker when taking a shower and the sumpbox overflowing / leaking
There maybe other causes for water in your cabin bilge. I recently had a freshwater plumbing fitting crack and leak the entire contents of my freshwater tank into the cabin bilge. The bilge pump did its job but it took hours to get that last 1/4" - 1/2" of water out (with an old soda can as a bailer and then a hand wrung chamois).
Other causes might include split hoses, broken hose clamps (thats why good designers always 'double clamp' hoses at fittings), malfuctioning airconditioning pumps, drains etc. If it was one of these, you would notice your midcabin bilge working a lot of time
Finally, you should always check operation of pumps and floatswitches REGULARLY. It should be a part of your maintenance schedule (and if you are like me, you can see how much hair you are actually losing as the years advance - lol)
Regards
Ian
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lan
I have come to conclusion this topic must not be a concerning issue out there. If "bespoke" means the same as "take causion", I'm with you my friend. I may look into a clear poly carbonite design just so I am not the first to experience a bad event with a turning belt on a boat. You see, if it can occur, I tend to find it.
Take care and I appreciate your time to my inquirey.
Alan:)
Alan,
Bespoke = custom built or tailor made to suit individual requirements.
With all the attention being paid to occupational health and safety issues in the workplace, I'm sure it is a major concern on commercial vessels which will filter down to the recreactional market, eventually
Depending on the design and space contsraints in your bilge I would be concerned about upsetting airflows using any sort of "solid" materials. Be careful that you don't restrict or impede the function / effectiveness of your bilge blowers. I think a woven mesh type product would be a better solution.
Good luck
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Hello to all:
Newbie here, and recently purchased a beautiful 06' 250 Cr w/ 350 MAG. First thought when opening up the engine compartment, would not want to have a mishap when the belt was turning. Question, has any one seen or herd of a belt guard for this application?
Alan
Hi Alan
I've never seen anything from Merc.
I guess they'd claim the variety of installations would make it impractical for them to design a factory option
So I suppose bespoke is the way to go
You could try your local shipwright or if you can design something yourself, a sheet metal worker (probably a lot cheaper)
Good luck
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Just a quick note.
Even with your battery master switch(es) set to off, your bilge pumps are still connected directly to the battery (via their respective float switches)
You may also find radio memory (to keep your stations set) is also connected in the "off" position
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Hi
For your engine
I think you need Mercruiser Service Manual #16
This covers the 455 V8 Gen V and GenVI engines
Here is a link to a bunch of manuals
Scroll down to Mercruiser Service Manual #16 and follow the downloads
Once downloaded, save a copy to your computer.
Check on page iii that your engine number matches the models as listed
If you want a paper version you need to order from Mercruiser (they have links to order on their website - i think is about $90)
The manual is 930pages - being electronic, it is NOT set out like a paper book
Where the paper manual would print pages sequentially in sections
1A, 1B, 1C etc.
then
2A, 2B, 2C etc.
then
3A, 3B, 3C etc.
The electronic version lists them numercially
1A, 2A, 3A etc.
then
1B, 2B, 3B etc.
then
1C, 2C, 3C
So it will take a bit of getting used to. There is no index but the pdf word search feature works
For your drive
I think you need Mercruiser Service Manual #11
Follow the same procedure for downloading and save
Check page ii that your drive serial number is covered by this manual
The drive manual is set out like a paper book (not like the engine)
This manual is (only) 596 pages
Again. no index, but you can word search
Good luck
Regards
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Hi
I don't have a 248 but for all the Montereys I have seen, the acessory switches only switch the cigarette lighter socket or sockets if you have more than 1
On some boats, one of the accesory switches can be just a spare switch for any accessory an owner might fit later.
This obviously is for a new boat ex factory, a subsequent owner might have done lots of different things to it since.
For your nav lights, centre position is off
One side (i think is up??) is your running lights which includes your red port light, green starboard light and white running light
Other side (i think is down??) is your anchor light and is all round white light.
Sorry i can't comment about the other issues, hopefully someone else with a 248 can help you
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Amendment
The 12V indicator meter will always show ZERO if your battery switches are in the OFF position.
On the 302 I'm not sure if this is true. It is on my 330SY where I have a separate master DC switch for the house supply
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I have a 2006 290SCR and I have probably installed 6 batteries in it to this point. Cheap West Marine batteries, an Interstate or two, and I have never replaced all 3 at once. Some people on the dock say you should always replace all the batteries at the same time? My question is this: should I bite the bullett and buy 3 AGM batteries, or maybe 3 Optima batteries as compared to the standard lead-acid? And I have also been told that all 3 batteries must be the same (starting or trolling). It would seem to me that my port and starboard batteries should be the starting type, while my house battery should be a deep-cycle. Just tired of messing with batteries in general and I'm ready to put this puppy to bed before the season starts back up.
Thanks
Optima batteries are AGM type batteries.
I've never used Optima so I can't tell you how they compare to other brands of AGM
Charging rates, cycles etc. for AGM are similar to lead-acid and AGM's can work just as a "drop-in" replacement to lead-acids
Most modern chargers will have a selection switch for the 3 main battery technologies, namely AGM, flooded (lead-acid) and GEL (which I won’t discuss further).
I don't know of any single charger that will allow you to charge different battery technologies at the same time. (If you had 2 separate / individual chargers you could do this)
You should use the same battery type for all 3 batteries i.e ALL agm, or ALL flooded, or ALL gel.
You should use 'start' batteries for motors and 'deep cycle' for house batteries.
Most manufacturers of AGM and lead-acid now advertise 'dual purpose' (combining start and deep-cycle). I've not had any experience with these yet but I haven't seen any bad press about them either.
Seeing as your 'start' batteries are never used for 'house' work I don't believe the additional cost of the 'dual purpose' would be justified (it would a different argument if you had an outboard motor with a single battery that was also used as a house battery)
I don't believe it is necessary to replace all 3 batteries at the same time.
Certainly it is a good idea (but not necessary) to replace your 2 start batts at the same time. Even though they are effectively separate from each other (unless you use the 'parallel switch' all the time), it stands to reason, if one is giving you trouble it is likely the other might soon too as they obviously do the same amount of work for about the same amount of time under the same conditions.
The 3rd (house) should be deep cycle type. It is not (normally) connected to your start batteries, so it has different usage, loads etc. As such, replacement cycle can be considered independent of your start batts
Certainly, if you had 2 house batts connected together, you SHOULD / WOULD replace both at the same time as bad performance in one batt would lower the performance of the other)
6 batteries over 5 years appears to be excessive. You don’t explain any problems but it is worth noting batteries require maintenance even over winter ‘lay-off’ months. You should regularly check fluid levels (lead-acids) and keep them charged to keep them in peak condition.
It might alo be a good idea to have your charging systems checked (battery charger and alternator)
Regards
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Along the same lines, I just purchased a 2001 Monterey 302CR. I "think" the batteries are shot. The previous owner installed these in 09 but he thought that by charging them with the boat charger all the time would ruin the batteries, he only used the charger ever so ofter. II happened to turn of the battery charger last night and all went dark and the battery gauge read zero.
My problem is this. What is the proper switch set up to have the batteries charge? Understand that the shorepower must be on and the battery charger switch must be on also. When I do this and turn off the master switches in the main power access at the rear of the boat, (the one for the port, starboard, parallel, generator) everything goes dark and 12dc indicator gauge in the cabin electrical panel reads zero. Are the batteries being charged or not? It does not indicate if they are. If I look at the front of the charger in the engine room, will that show a charge?
Thanks for any comments. Not a new boater, but new to twins and a boat this big. I do learn quickly thank goodness!!
Assuming nothing has been altered, your batteries should be connected directly to the battery charger (sometimes with an in-line type fuse)
You are correct the shore power needs to be connected and the battery charger breaker switched on.
It doesn't matter what position the battery switches are in, the charger will be working.
If your batt switches are on, it will take longer to recharge the batts depending on any load you may have on.
The 12V indicator meter will always show ZERO if your battery switches are in the OFF position.
The 115V AC is independent of the 12V DC system. In fact, if you are hooked up to shore power with the relevant AC breakers switched on, AC power will be available at your outlets, air conditioner etc. even with your DC system off.
Most battery chargers these days have indicator LEDS on them showing you what the charger is doing. Yours is 10 years old so yours maybe different. If you don't have an owners manual, see if you can locate one online, or ask here, or some other boating group forums.
Most modern chargers actually have 2 or more stages of charging (the Protech fitted to my 2008 330 actually has 4), to ensure the batteries are not overcharged and remain ‘topped up’ without fear of damaging your batteries AND you can permanently leave your batts on the charger (contrary to what the previous owner believed). If you are using vented or non-sealed batteries, this does require you to keep fluid levels up AND requires you to vent your bilge
Usually, most chargers will not indicate charging amps, capacity, volts etc. whilst charging your batts, only indicating which stage it is in (usually indicated by a series of LED's - on - charge - float (or maintanence) etc. I have however seen this feature in some of the newer models at a few boat shows lately, so I guess will start to filter down over the next couple of years. Chargers have evolved over time, some will even have a 'de-sulphate' phase to 'condition' your batts (for lead-acid types)
Hope this helps some
Regards
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While you are at it, also check hoses and the hose clamps throughout the system. Check the tubing hasn't perished or been "cut" under the clamp.
Also, at 10 years old, while you are playing around, look at replacing the rubber components in your vacuum pump. They come in a kit and aren't that expensive.
Faulty / worn duckbills usually will let a vacuum build up, so motor stops, but then comes back on fairly quickly. It's not usual that duckbills will make your pump run permanently... but with a boat, nothing is "usual"
Good luck
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As you suggest, you really need to know more info about what you have, capacities, ratings, charger details, air con model / current draw etc.
How many start batteries do you have and how many house batteries to you have?
Any idea why you have "4 batteries wired 2 per bank"? This sounds a bit odd if they are all house batteries
What else do you run when the a/c is on? Refigerator/s, TV (inverter driven or 12V DC), coffee makers etc.
Are all the batteries flat after 2 hours? Have you measured any voltages of individual batteries (i.e. disconnected from each other) before and after use?
Let me know when you get the information
Ian
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Hi Rob
I used these G4 replacemnts (with 9 segments) for my 20W halogens - only issue is i used the cool white temperature and the light is a bit "harsh". Warm white temperature would probably be not so harsh. Suggest you get one of each to see which temperature you prefer.
http://www.ledshoponline.com/G4_LED_bulb.htm#9smt
There is also a G4 6segment which you could use as a 10watt halogen replacement
Regards
Ian
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Hi Stella Blue
The manufacturer was a company called Teak Isle Manufacturing
401 Capitol Court
Ocoee FL 34761
The contact I had was Pat Brown PBrown@TeakIsle.com who was very helpful. Their website is www.teakisle.com
I think you will have to buy through one of their agents / re-sellers but they will give you a list of those closest to you.
The Teak Isle part no. is SEAT-POLY#20-18528
The Monterey part no. is #45907016-00-SEAT POLY SHWR CF/CD.
The seat is actually from a SY310 and is the same as the 330 and 340
If you don't have the lip moulded into the vertical faces of the head walls / cabinet, you will need to fit some cleats to support the seat. You will probably have to buy these through a plastics fabricator as Teak Isle don't make them for retro-fits
Hope this helps some
Regards
Ian
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Hi m_cogs
If you don't plan on leaving the boat in the water, then the mercathode system is of no use. It only offers protection whilst the boat is stationary in the water. There is some discussion that the effectiveness of the mercathode system is reduced due to water movement in tidal zones and swing moorings (something to do with ion envelopes). If you pull your boat out of the water after each outing, make sure it is washed throughly and you shouldn't have too many problems.
I don't know enough about the different types of corrosion to comment on your particular issues however te general consensus seemed to be that the change to the 2 x stainless props in the B3 led to a lot of problems with "galvanic corrosion" or "electrolysis" between the larger area of stainless steel and the aluminium casings. Looking around the internet, you will find a lot of bad stories about "early" B3's that seem to disappear from 2005 / 2006 onwards.
(CAUTION - Not everything you read on the internet is true)
I can't see your prop nut in the pic, but apparently in later B3's, additional anodes where placed on the drive as part of a series of fixes. All B3's now have a large anode fitted to the end to the prop nut (it's a cone shape). I read somewhere this is available as an "aftermarket kit".
Other "fixes" included using magnesium alloy anodes as it is "more sacrificial" than zinc alloys although this means they need to be replaced more often depending on the water chemistry
You may need to check with Mercruiser but I am not sure the mercathode system was fitted as standard in 2002 series motor/drives.
I have found some articles about the mercathode system (you can find a lot more on the internet). See links below
You say the motor has had the engine module removed. You don't say if the "reference anode" plastic assembly is still fixed to the leg (see pics in first link)
Another issue, it looks like the trim cylinder anode pictured is half missing!. I know zinc is "soft" but I don't like the idea of the other half coming off and hitting your props under power. I would replace it ASAP
Hope some of this helps
Ian
http://www.mercstuff.com/bravo3corrosion.htm
this gives a good overview
http://www.marinemechanic.com/site/page200.html
and the following page
http://www.marinemechanic.com/site/page201.html
these 2 pages get a lot more technical about causes of corrosion with and without a mercathode system and how to test the mercathode system.
P.S. Seems Volvo have had isses along the same lines.
They did introduce a plastic composite drive casing and props to try to reduce corrosion issues.
Looks like the composite drive casing experiment has been dropped and they have done back to aluminium castings with titanium dioxide coatings
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Hi,
Not sure if this has anything to do with the kink but your leg/s should also be stored in the fully down position. This relieves stress on the rubber componets and is what the Mercruiser (and Volvo) manuals say.
OBVIOUSLY - you still need to use the fully up / transport mode when trailering etc.
Legs should also be in the down postion when engine flushing
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Hi
The bilge pump/s remain connected to the battery/s even if the battery switch is off. This is for the obvious reason you don't want your bilge full of water when un-attended
Other typical items that remain 'on' even after battery switch is off are radio / stereo memories, clock memories (if fitted), corrosion control systems (if fitted), etc. These are relatively minor but do add up over time. The only true way to disconnect the battery is to lift the cables at the terminals.
Even a battery that is disconnected will self discharge over time due to its "internal resistance". This is why they should be maintenance charged if they are not used for long periods of time
A bilge pump doesn't have to have water in the bilge to operate. If the float switch that controls the pump is faulty it could permanently turn the pump on. It is a good practice to periodically check the operation of float switches and the pumps. You don't need to fill your bilge with water, just 'lift' the float switch.
Batteries can be fickle things and truly react to how well or badly they are treated so the age of a battery in itself, is not always a good indicator of it's condition. Depending on the type of battery, they can be permantly damaged if discharged below a certain point. Generally you will shorten the "life-cycle" of a battery if you discharge it below 10.5 volts. (If you are interested you will find LOTS of information on individual battery manufacturers websites).
Your battery is actually made up of 6 individual "cells" connected together inside a box with 2 terminals in what is known as a "series" configuration, giving a total of 12volts (nominal). Depending on the type of battery you have (lead acid, AGM, GEL etc.), it's cell chemistry and the state of charge / discharge , the actual voltage will vary slightly.
The problem lies in the "series" connection. If one of the cells is damaged or faulty, it can affect the whole battery performance. A damaged cell is quite often indicated by appearing to be fully charged after being on a charger but then very quickly going 'flat'
As you suggest, have them load tested and check out the charging system of the engine/s. Better to have problems on your driveway than on the water. Depending on your actual usage patterns, it might be a good idea to invest in a battery charger incorporating a 'trickle' or 'maintenance' charge once the batteries are at their fully recharged state. Talk to your marine / auto electrician
Regards
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Hi,
Bottom paint is usually black because it hides a lot of growth.
I have seen white bottom paint but it becomes very dirty very quickly. It still works when you come to clean it. Just an appearance thing
Fenders could be mounted either way. I have never seen horizontal. With a vertical mount you need not be so careful about tying them off whist in the holder. I imagine a horizontal mount would obstruct more of your forward / side views. It would be easier to see "around" a vertical mount.
Spotlights are usally mounted to the hull at the bow but the higher above the waterline the further you will see. Ideally, I would like mine mounted to the targa arch, but this can cause problems with the light reflecting back off the bow rail and possibly obstructing your view
Have fun with your new boat
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Hi Politby
A word of warning...... your boat can never be big enough...... next you will want a 360, then a 400
The boat you propose to buy is 5 years old and been run for 2 years in salt water and 3 years in fresh water.
I would suggest you at least talk to a Mercruiser dealer. If it was running in salt water all the time, the risers might be due for a change soon. Depending on what they say, it might give you a little more "negotiating space" in discussing the price. They could also give you an opinion on the legs.
A lot will depend on how the boat has been stored. Generally if it has been pulled out of the water and the engines flushed each time, then you wont have too many problems. The engine flushing technique in the Mercruiser manual is pretty much useless if the boat is left in the water.
You could consider having them retro-fitted with fresh water cooling but I believe it would be a waste of $ now the engines are 5 years old.
Remember, now you have 2 engines and 2 legs, everything for servicing becomes twice as expensive!
You don't mention any options but would be a good idea to have the genset inspected as well (if fitted). Last thing you want is water leaking into your hull.
If you have a water heater (electric) look at the internal anode and see if you can find out when it was last changed. The water heater should be checked for signs of corrossion as well. Again you dont want water in your hull.
Check the float switches on the pumps are working correctly - ive recently had to replace 3 of them on my 355 that is only 3years old
I would personally have the boat surveyed - at least it would give you an idea of how well the previous owners have maintained it. The survey will definately find things "wrong" with it, after all it is 5 years old - but as I said before, the report may give a little room for negotiating the final sale price
Good luck and happy "new" boating
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Louis,
When the engine goes into "safe mode" it will record the error code on the EMS computer chip (Engine Management System).
An authorised dealer will read this code and be able to tell you very quickly what the fault is
Regards
Ian
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Hi
I don't know much about the 298 but will see if I can give you a couple of tips
There is an electrical wiring diagram in the 282 manual (you can download from the Forum pages)
It appears that the cabin breaker also controls the lights in the head and the lights at the forward v-berth.
Do these work? or are they dead like the ones in the galley?
If all your cabin lights are "dead", then use a multimeter to check operation of the breaker. If it is faulty, replace. They are quite simple to replace. Just remember to disconnect power first.
If the breaker checks OK, then you will have to start checking the wiring
1st check the 15 pin plug / socket is firmly connected. There should be a locking tab/s to ensure it doesn't vibrate loose. (diagram in the manual)
2nd check the negatives are properly connected the the negative buss (diagram in the manual)
After that, it is probably time to call your marine electrician
Hope this helps
Ian
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Hi Seahope
Be very careful !!!!!
Warning buzzers are fitted for a reason and it is most unusual to be allowed to just switch them off.
The buzzers indicate something is wrong. Whilst some engine circuits might allow you to "reset" them for a short period of time, no manufacturer would ever let you simply turn them off permanently. Think of the liability issues they would face if something went wrong.
It is unlikely to be part of any factory installation by either Monterey or your engine manufacturer. If it was, it would be mounted on a proper board with labels.
My advice is to go to an authorised engine repair shop and have it investigated.
It could be dangerous and is akin to using a steel nail in a fuse block because the thin wire fuse keeps blowing
Also, I wasn't aware Monterey fitted Yanmar deisels.
I have seen Volvos and Cummins (Mercruiser).
I would ask Monterey direct (give them your HIN) and they will tell you what it left the factory with.
Be safe
Ian
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Hi David,
OUCH! Isn't boating fun? - lol
Thanks for letting us know how it turned out - not too many do
Regards
Ian
Not paying attention
in General Discussion
Posted · Report reply
I don't have a 250 so can't comment specifically
In my 330 there is breaker at the main electrical panel AND a separate switch to actually operate the macerator which is located inside the head adjacent to the holding tank monitor. So just because you operated the breaker, it doesn't necessarily mean yr pump was running.
Simple way is try it again - this time with your seacock open and Y valve switched over (if fitted?). If it starts to empty your holding tank, then no problems. If it doesn't, well..... macerator pumps aren't that expensive.
You should only do this where it is legal to dump