Dodge06

Mark, The trim piece is one full length. It is attached by screws that are under the fold over that you see along the length I think that there is either 4 or 5 of these. You just have to pull the fold out of the way and the screw will be exposed for you to remove it. Remove all of the screws and the trim piece will come right off. Peter

The wedge is 1/2" thick at the bow end of the windlass and 1/8" at the stern end. I did it this way so that the wedge would support the whole windlass and this way the wedge would be secured completely. I used a table saw to cut the wedge in a very creative way, then I finished it off with a belt sander to get it even all the way across the surface.

I looked in 250CR and there are two horns, the other wires are for the second horn.

amanphoto, I did not need to change the rollers as the anchor has enough weight to drop out of the mount on its own when deployed. Peter

Amanphoto, I have a 2005 250CR with air, the discharge is routed between the head and the hull and dumps into the shower sump and this is what discharges I over board. The sump pump needs to be on when the AC is on. Peter

Amanphoto, I have a 2005 250cr with air, the unit it self is located under the seat in the cabin in front of the closet on the port side. The drain from the AC is routed to the shower sump and this is how it is discharged over board. Peter

Hi Trombolo, I looked up online and the seal kit for the Bravo III is Part # 87400A2. Hope this helps.

nocuses I finally got my boat out of storage and looked at how I removed the mirror. There are screw head covers on screws(4 screws) on the panel to which the mirror is attached to. I pulled the covers off and the 4 screws,they are there to attach the panel to the bulk head,once the 4 screws were out and the panel removed you will see the 4 screws holding the mirror from the back side of the panel. I had to also remove the trim pieces that are in the cabin that cover where the hull and top are joined. To remove these you will see folded over pieces of vinyl on the trim board, pull back the folded over pieces and you will see there is a screw at each folded over area. Remove the screws and this will allow you to take the trim piece off and give the room to pull the front panel off. Good luck it is not hard to do. Peter

noxcuses, I did the same thing I have a 2005 250CR, the way to get the mirror off is, in the anchor locker there are 4 screws holding the mirror from the anchor locker side and they are easy to remove the mirror will come off in one piece. Peter

The ladder that should be the one to fit there is WINDLINE OVERPLATFORM TELESCOPING 4 STEP. product # TDL-4X

Purchased one from West Marine for my 250 CR this fits in the spot under the sink in the cockpit. Marine Ice Chest - 25 Qt., 11 1/4"H x 13 1/8"W x 20"L 2004190 6776 In stock online. $39.99

Peterr Before you buy from E-Bay one look at these I replaced mine on my 250 CR this spring and they have kits for replacing the charcoal and foam which costs a lot less than replacing the whole filter assembly each time. http://bigorangefilter.com/ Peter

Mark, I did not need to put anything in on the deck as the chain does not rub, it is hard to tell from the pictures but there is about 3 inches of clearence from the chain to the deck. When letting out the anchor the weight on the line from the anchor keeps the line tight and the same when retrieving the anchor. I have only 15 feet of chain on and the rest is rope. I looked up your boat on line and it is set up different than mine, my battery selector switch is located on the starboard side of the cocpit under the table, it is in a box so I was able to remve the box to gain access to the starboard side of the boat between the hull and the cocpit. It looks like you have a storage well in the same location and it should be removeable with screws on the face of it. This allow you to access the area between the hull and the cocpit. It looks like you would have the same drink holder/courtesy light compartment under the throttle that is also removeable to gain access near the helm. If you remove these you should have the access that you need. Peter

Hi Mark, I will refer to the pictures in my previous post. As you see in Pic. #1 I removed the cabin head liner trim piece and fished form the cabin side back to the cocpit. Getting past the head was the hardest part as the head liner was glued to the hull and the head both. I used a piece of hard wood dowel which I put a taper on the leading edge to feed it through past the head and it pulled the liner away and then I feed a flat piece for wood about 1/4" x 1 1/2" cut on a taper at the lead edge.This cut away a lot more of the glued liner which allowed me to fish in a piece of wire loom ( which I purchased at a hardware store). I left the wire loom in place and this is what I ran the wires through to get past the head(Pic.#3). I removed the cup holder insert at the helm to access the aft and starboard side of the head to make sure the the loom passed the head and was exposed to be accessable (Pic #3 was taken from where the cup holder was removed). To feed wires from the engine room to the helm I removed the battery switch box (Pic.#6 was taken with the battery switch box removed) and feed the wires form the engine bay to the battery switch box then to where the cup holder insert was and then to the helm when I removed it.This way I was able to feed the wires and did not need a fish tape for it. If you remove these access areas first you should be able to do the same with little trouble. Hope this helps if you need more let me know, if this works let us know or what you did. Good Luck Peter

Dan, The first picture - wire loom with wires running through that I used to get past the head. The second picture - that I removed the trim piece and that is where I ran the wires behind, in the cabin. The third picture - the wire loom on the aft side of the head under the helm. The fourth picture - where the wires came through from the cabin into the anchor locker. The fifth picture - the template on the mounting shelf in the anchor locker. The sixth picture - the contactor mounted in behind the battery switches. The seventh picture - the switch mounted on the dash. The eight picture - the windlass mounted in the locker (NOTE the wedge under the windlass to keep the chain level over the bow of the boat). The last picture - the anchor locker closed over the windlass. Hope this helps if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask - I have alot more pictures and I will give you any other information you need. Peter