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munroe67
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Posts posted by munroe67
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I have a 2001 282 with Taylor Canvas so I am expecting that the windshield is also a taylor. I called their gloversville NY facility to obtain a replacement pass through window glass (Center windshield swing window) which exploded in the sun this weekend. They told me that I needed a part number from Monterey. Does anyone have the number or do you need the HID. Thanks for the help
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Thank you for the help and direction
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I have an 01 282 and I am looking for the answer to a canvas question if anyone might know. I have found the company who makes the 2002 282 canvas but I need to know if it is the same as a 2001. If anyone might know if there are any differences between these sonce they look alomost exactly the same. Once you order it you own it!
or if anyone knows the manufacturer for 01 that would be just as great!
Thanks in advance for all the help
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your post shows up on my end. As far as the access to the tanks. I have a 282 and I can access the starboard tank by taking the mirror down in the aft cabin and the sender is right infront. The port has an access panel under my wet bar on top of the sending unit. Hope this helps, I know that they are different boats but designers have habits
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[The wire size is too small. 25 foot run is actually 50 foot. You measure the round trip. You would have only around 5 amp max draw @ 50 feet.You need to find out what the current draw is on the horns. 12ga wire would give you around 12 amps @ 10% drop.
10ga would give you around 20 amps.
The manual the horns came with should give you recommened wire size.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the help. I switched to a 12 guage wire but ultimately found that i had a deffective horn (One of 2 was grounded incorrectly and kept cutting out. I am glad that i changed the wire though the new horns sound great
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I am having a challenge getting my new horn to sound. I installed a set of trumpets on my radar arch and I am only getting a thump from the diaphram and my question is two fold. I am running 18g wire for 25' to the horn from the original switch. The horn does sound through this run when touched to the bus bars under the helm but when connected to the switch it only gives my that thump. I tested the switch and it has 12.4v going in and 12.4v out when activated, I am shooting that it might be one of 2 things. 1.) a bad switch 2.) wire is too small for the length of the run. the first I am having a problem locating the manufacturer of the switch, it looks like a bluesea contura but i could not find anything that had the illuminated horn picture on their website. Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? Thanks in advance for the help
High Temp Alarm
in Technical Discussion
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I have an 01 282 with twin 4.3L V6 and Bravo IIIs. I had one motor which was heating up only on plane and I did the following to correct the problem
1.) Impellor and Thermostat are the first things to change
2.) Pull the inlet side of the cooling hose to the thermostat housing and start your motor breifly to see the water flow. Should be like a fire hose. This will tell you if the clog is in the motor or in the raw water entrance
3.) Clean the intake hols in the drive with a phillips head screw drive and then use a coat hanger to clean out any barnacles in the lowere drive housing. You have to get wet usually to do this. Use a hose to blow out the debris you create to keep it from entering your motor
4.) Work backwards from the hose in #2 to verify they are free from debris. Hose, PS Cooler Hose, Impellor pump Hose. Using a dock hose and back flushing is what cleared my blockage from the line leading from my transom to the pump.
you can get a great deal of info from touching the motor to see what parts are hot
TStat housing cool and risers hot = poor flow or bad risers
The water flow is usually drive to impellor to Tstat housing to circulator (water pump) to engine passages to thermostat to risers out through the exhaust
Just make sure that you are seeing 2 things
1.) That you are really heating up. If you touch the top of the riser and the Tstat housing and they are cool but you are getting an alarm it could be your sensor
2.) Some people may tell you to pull the thermostat and run it wide open but this is not a great idea just a quick fix that will get worse and usually screw up how the fuel is being atomized in the motor. Most boat motors run great around 170-175 (10 to 15 above the thermostat recommended) too cool is not good and can cause fouling and stalling and too hot can cause detonation and motor damage. A motor without a thermostat is apt to do anything since there is not control over the heating
Hope it helps