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My Monterey

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  2. I need to replace the extreme graphics. Where can you buy them?
  3. The manual for your engine should tell you the WOT RPM range. You should prop the boat to be somewhere in that range at WOT. A prop specialist should be able to help you, and may even be able to give you a few props to try for the performance you are seeking.
  4. I put the name on the sides of the boat. I got this from boatletteringtoyou.com. What's really cool is that I got the same image and name printed on some Koozies for the boat too!
  5. Hi, I have a Monterey 275sy, a 2008 model, fitted with Volvo D3 190 with the Volvo stern drive, I have replaced the cone clutch assembly in the stern drive what would be an indicative top speed of this set up, the boat top revs at @ 3800rpm, and depending on weather conditions will typically get to around 23-25 knots, just wanted to know if this was decent or short of where it should be
  6. Hi, I have a 2008 Monterey 275sy I am looking to upgrade the existing manual toilet to an electric version, I can see a breaker for heads system on the DC electrical panel, can anyone confirm if the wiring loom is therefore already fitted and routed ? If the loom is already routed where would I find it ? I cannot see any access hatches in the heads area unless under the existing manual toilet,
  7. I wanted to throw this out there in hopes of saving someone coin... I have a complete GatorStep kit for a 2008 Monterey 278 SS (see digital proof). Retail cost, which is priced at $24 sq/ft, is $2,643 + shipping. I will be glad to hook someone up with a 30% discount on this kit! If you are interested, please respond. This kit has never been installed and only taken out of the box. Due to a miscommunication with the customer on the preferred design (Cascade), someone is going to be getting a smoking deal on new decking. Colors: Teak (top) / Black (bottom) Design: Ultra Plank Parts: Full Kit
  8. Hi everybody! Just purchased a 2007 270. Didn't come equipped with vhf or plotter. I plan to mount the vhf in-dash just left of the wheel. Can anyone recommend a good source for the 12v + and -. I'm sure theres a 12v bus or something like that. Thanks! Dan
  9. Hi 233 Explorer Owners, I have been having a persistent problem with the boat taking on water very slowly recently and my mechanic can't locate the source. After pulling the boat, he filled the bilge with water to see where it might come out, but no luck. He even pulled the outdrive to look for clues. There is a small fitting/plug on the underside of the boat near the stern. Does anyone know what the purpose of that is? Any thoughts? Thanks. Matt
  10. Not to steal your post, but here's another boating video partly from drone, and with my Onyx 214 Supersport playing a major part... Enjoy! Boating in Karlskrona 2018
  11. Hello wirth315, I like your set up and the tower too! Since my post, I've already had everything installed. Amp and sub on helm side; ran RCAs from head unit through head compartment, around bow and back to helm. The 4ga power/ ground wires were much easier to fish to the battery area.
  12. You can mount the amp on either side... My amp is mounted on the passenger side on the back wall of the porti poti and the wires from the stereo run down and back. You can access those wires by removing the front seat and reaching back. Optional for more room to work fishing those wires is to remove a panel secured to the floor etc with L brackets and phillips screws. A 1" hole is what Monterey used to bring the wires into the porti potti area and hook up to the amp. (See Pic Below) This is Exactly how Monterey does it when you buy a 234 with the Exile Amp package to power the wake board tower speakers. My boat came this way, but I added a sub in the drivers side helm, thus the need to run a speaker wire to the other side of the boat. I installed a large Rockford Fosgate 12" sub in the drivers side helm, and ran new speaker wire from the existing amp on passenger side to the helm on drivers side, by taking the wires to the front of the boat, then back to the drivers helm. Not only did I run new speaker wire, I also replaced the control wire for my remote head unit control as it was non working when I bought the boat. While I was fishing wires, I replaced the RCA cables from the stereo to the amp with high quality RCA wires, as well as added a Rockford fosgate bluetooth module, so I can now stream music from my phone to the Original outdated head unit. :-) The reason I keep the old Kenwood head unit, is I get free XM Satellite radio! Love it when boating as I always have perfect reception and a zillion channels, and it's $120 xm subscription that works year in / out for FREE. :-) Here's a few tips on how I ran the wires... I ran a guide cable (Fish wire) from the stereo to the front passenger storage area to be sure I could reach it, then used that guide cable to pull the new RCA cables and remote control unit cable thru the console to the under the seat area. It's definitely tight, but I managed after a few back / forths. Once you get the wires to the front under seat storage area, you can run them into the porti potti area to amp, or pull them forward and across to the drivers side. I ran the new RCA cables to the existing Exile amp, and the new speaker wire for my sub from the amp to the front under seat storage area on the passenger side. I then pulled the wire to the front of the boat, and reached from the drivers side under seat area and pulled the wires across. Since I like STEALTH installs, I took up all the slack in the wires, and tucked them up under the TOP inside lip (shortest distance) and secured with all weather duct tape after cleaning the surface with rubbing alcohol. There's no chance of snagging any of the wires pulling gear in / out of the storage area this way. I ran all the wires tucked under that lip down the drivers side and then down to the floor, where I found a gap going into the storage area of the helm. I pulled up a carpet edge to better find the gap leading into the large storage area in the drivers helm. You can run the amp power wire up either side of the boat from the batteries depending on where you mount the amp. Monterey chose the passenger side rear wall. Had I installed the amp, I would have chosen the drivers side as the door opens nicely to access the back wall of the helm. Either way, when running a new power wire, be sure to use a quality inline fuse directly AT the battery to prevent the power wire from catching fire IF shorted. You can remove the rear speakers on either side if needed to help fish your new power wire up wither side of the boat. I ran a thick 8 gauge wire direct from a 30 amp fuse on the battery to the drivers helm. I ran the wire across the back of the boat in the engine bay zip tied to existing loomed wiring, to the drivers side... I then used a 8 ft fishing pole with the eyelets removed to Fish the power wire up to the side of the drivers helm where I was able to reach it and pull it into the helm area. The existing fuse box is already here, but I wanted 8 gauge power wire as I plan to eventually swap out my sub for a self powered sub, and I also wanted direct battery power for some extra accessories such as my iphone charger, Q-beam light etc... It wasn't all that hard to do, but it did take me several hours while figuring it all out, and making it completely STEALTH and bullet proof. If your a hands on guy you'll have no problem.
  13. Just order the same length/type from West Marine or another on-line distributor. Same thing, and cheaper than ordering from a dealer.
  14. I have a 1998 Monterey 242CR cruiser that its helm seats are being upholster. Once the back seating was removed we've notice some damage on the engine room air exhausts plastic caps that are located under the seat.. We like to replace the plastic cap now that we have the opportunity. I've included a photo for review. Any assistance is appreciated. Thank you. Regards.
  15. I have a 1998 Monterey 242CR and will like to replace the windshield support arm bracket bars. I know that the windshield brand is Taylor Made. Can you provide the correct part number. Any assistance is appreciated. Thank you. Regards.
  16. See attached photo. I hope you understand what measures is mine...
  17. What "measurement's" are not correct ? Maybe fabricate one out of Un-obtainium.
  18. I have check on Gems website 8 wide and the measurements is not correct with my 250cr-2006 Any suggestions?
  19. Here are a couple sources. https://newwiremarine.com/marine-grade-switches/marine-rocker-switches/ https://www.go2marine.com/category/13154/toggle-and-rocker-switches-for-boats.html If all switches went out, it's probably just a fuse or breaker.
  20. Hi everybody! We have Monterey 375 SY boat. Unfortunately during the summer somehow on the cockpit every rocker switch beam invisible. My father is not so good at technical so he doesn't remember which one do what without the print on it( like bilge pump, windlass,engine room,anchor light.. ) Can someone tell me where can I find exact one rockerswitch. with the white line in the middle and the print above it. only like on off function. Thank you in advance. best István
  21. I'm not with my boat at the moment but I glued the one that holds it up back. I used this SCIGRIP 16 10315 Acrylic Cement, Low-VOC, Medium bodied, 5 Ounce Tube, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_AjHTAvSa2gGer
  22. Thanks for the replies! So the amp is mounted opposite side of the head unit. Currently, all my speaker wires run into the door that opens to the toilet and connect directly to the Kenwood head unit via the harness adapter. I was wondering if I could do this job myself...this would require rerouting all the speaker wires to the amp and finding a way to run RCA cables from the head unit to the amp clear across to the starboard side of the boat. How does one accomplish that?? Not to mention running power to the amp from the batteries. Yikes!
  23. I have a 2014 Monterey 268SS. I usually attach my iPhone to the aux input to play music off my phone. This has stopped working, no sound. The boat also has an amplifier. Is there a fuse or circuit that may be tripped causing this.
  24. This is a though one, I lost the inside female round nut for one of the screws on my head door hinge earlier this year and went looking for a replacement. The closest thing I could find was one of the same size at Home Depot in their hardware section. However when it was made the forming die created 4 protruding teeth that would grab onto the material it was being placed into. I bought one (.35 cents) and took it home and with my pliers I bent the teeth flat so they created a flat round surface, the result turned out as well as I had hoped it would. Since I already had the screw and had confirmed that the thread in the round nut was compatible with it the fix was simple and although ascetically not perfect it functions well plus my take on this is who's going to be looking at the door hinges inside the head anyway. This might not be the "perfect fix" but it worked for me and I'm satisfied with the end result. TD
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