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Viking1 joined the community
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Check hose to thru-hull fitting. Might be clogged, or not connected.
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Elie Bassal joined the community
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Tony H joined the community
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Greetings, I have a 2008 180 FS, owned since new. The ignition fuse keeps blowing after shifting into forward. I have checked for any bare or loose wires shorting it out and have found none thus far. The boat has a 3.0 Volvo Penta I/O. Any assistance would be appreciated.
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MonicaF joined the community
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Montura 236 joined the community
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Cuban Skipper joined the community
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martinbrown1287 joined the community
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Captain Horhay joined the community
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Greeting Monterey boaters. I just purchased a 2004 Monterey 302 CR, with 5.0 Volvo's. We moved up from a Four Winns 286 Vista. This boat has ton's more storage space and room. I am sure we are going to enjoy it this Summer and the Monterey.
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Horn does not work, checked the fuse, it's good, wires seemed to be attached tight. Could it be the horn itself? Thanks, Franco
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Howdy, the charger looks like a black box with red and green light son it. There should be a picture of it in your manual. I have an M65 and it is located under the engine hatch, starboard side, under the gunwale. The M65 has an outboard so the engine hatch is access to a large storage area. Not sure what that looks like in your boat. It is pretty obvious on mine. good luck.
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Based out of Peoria, here. Usually boat on Clinton Lake with the occasional trip to Rend Lake. We also try to get to Lake Cumberland in Kentucky once or twice a year.
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Since these cooler kinda stink, has anyone retrofitted or used another cooler in it's place?
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I have 2018 M4 with wet bar that works fine except I don't see how to drain it. Can someone help me?
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I have a 2017 278ss that has captains chairs at the helm and the port side. The new 278ss has an option for a "port side forward / aft facing lounger" Can this option be added to an existing boat or does it have to be installed from the factory when the boat is built? Thanks in advance....
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Hi, I wonder if someone out there could help me locate the battery charger? I've looked everywhere but really sure what it looks like. I have the manuals but it don't show the location. I have replaced both batteries but the don't seem to hold their charge. I have shore power and a breaker that says battery charger but feel it maybe faulty as voltage is just on 12v. Tia Peter
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Searching for similar hinges for a 2008 278SS. Did either of you have any luck finding replacement parts? -
I have a 2014 Monterey 268SS. The stereo is on but there is no sound. Is there a fuse or circuit breaker somewhere. Any suggestions.
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I'm sure you figured it out by now, but you have to flip up the part at the front of the seat -- the part that you flip up when standing at the helm or to give more rise when seated. That's the only way the rest of the seat will lie flat.
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Need MOST help: I turned on the water pump for the first time this season and had water spraying out of this elbow connector that is connected to the cold water out on the water heater. What kind of quick-connect fitting is this? It has light grey C-clips that snap on/off. How to remove this and what to replace it with? Thanks!
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I need to replace the extreme graphics. Where can you buy them?
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The manual for your engine should tell you the WOT RPM range. You should prop the boat to be somewhere in that range at WOT. A prop specialist should be able to help you, and may even be able to give you a few props to try for the performance you are seeking.
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I put the name on the sides of the boat. I got this from boatletteringtoyou.com. What's really cool is that I got the same image and name printed on some Koozies for the boat too!
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Hi, I have a Monterey 275sy, a 2008 model, fitted with Volvo D3 190 with the Volvo stern drive, I have replaced the cone clutch assembly in the stern drive what would be an indicative top speed of this set up, the boat top revs at @ 3800rpm, and depending on weather conditions will typically get to around 23-25 knots, just wanted to know if this was decent or short of where it should be
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Hi, I have a 2008 Monterey 275sy I am looking to upgrade the existing manual toilet to an electric version, I can see a breaker for heads system on the DC electrical panel, can anyone confirm if the wiring loom is therefore already fitted and routed ? If the loom is already routed where would I find it ? I cannot see any access hatches in the heads area unless under the existing manual toilet,
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I wanted to throw this out there in hopes of saving someone coin... I have a complete GatorStep kit for a 2008 Monterey 278 SS (see digital proof). Retail cost, which is priced at $24 sq/ft, is $2,643 + shipping. I will be glad to hook someone up with a 30% discount on this kit! If you are interested, please respond. This kit has never been installed and only taken out of the box. Due to a miscommunication with the customer on the preferred design (Cascade), someone is going to be getting a smoking deal on new decking. Colors: Teak (top) / Black (bottom) Design: Ultra Plank Parts: Full Kit
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Hi everybody! Just purchased a 2007 270. Didn't come equipped with vhf or plotter. I plan to mount the vhf in-dash just left of the wheel. Can anyone recommend a good source for the 12v + and -. I'm sure theres a 12v bus or something like that. Thanks! Dan
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Hi 233 Explorer Owners, I have been having a persistent problem with the boat taking on water very slowly recently and my mechanic can't locate the source. After pulling the boat, he filled the bilge with water to see where it might come out, but no luck. He even pulled the outdrive to look for clues. There is a small fitting/plug on the underside of the boat near the stern. Does anyone know what the purpose of that is? Any thoughts? Thanks. Matt
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Not to steal your post, but here's another boating video partly from drone, and with my Onyx 214 Supersport playing a major part... Enjoy! Boating in Karlskrona 2018
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Hello wirth315, I like your set up and the tower too! Since my post, I've already had everything installed. Amp and sub on helm side; ran RCAs from head unit through head compartment, around bow and back to helm. The 4ga power/ ground wires were much easier to fish to the battery area.
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You can mount the amp on either side... My amp is mounted on the passenger side on the back wall of the porti poti and the wires from the stereo run down and back. You can access those wires by removing the front seat and reaching back. Optional for more room to work fishing those wires is to remove a panel secured to the floor etc with L brackets and phillips screws. A 1" hole is what Monterey used to bring the wires into the porti potti area and hook up to the amp. (See Pic Below) This is Exactly how Monterey does it when you buy a 234 with the Exile Amp package to power the wake board tower speakers. My boat came this way, but I added a sub in the drivers side helm, thus the need to run a speaker wire to the other side of the boat. I installed a large Rockford Fosgate 12" sub in the drivers side helm, and ran new speaker wire from the existing amp on passenger side to the helm on drivers side, by taking the wires to the front of the boat, then back to the drivers helm. Not only did I run new speaker wire, I also replaced the control wire for my remote head unit control as it was non working when I bought the boat. While I was fishing wires, I replaced the RCA cables from the stereo to the amp with high quality RCA wires, as well as added a Rockford fosgate bluetooth module, so I can now stream music from my phone to the Original outdated head unit. :-) The reason I keep the old Kenwood head unit, is I get free XM Satellite radio! Love it when boating as I always have perfect reception and a zillion channels, and it's $120 xm subscription that works year in / out for FREE. :-) Here's a few tips on how I ran the wires... I ran a guide cable (Fish wire) from the stereo to the front passenger storage area to be sure I could reach it, then used that guide cable to pull the new RCA cables and remote control unit cable thru the console to the under the seat area. It's definitely tight, but I managed after a few back / forths. Once you get the wires to the front under seat storage area, you can run them into the porti potti area to amp, or pull them forward and across to the drivers side. I ran the new RCA cables to the existing Exile amp, and the new speaker wire for my sub from the amp to the front under seat storage area on the passenger side. I then pulled the wire to the front of the boat, and reached from the drivers side under seat area and pulled the wires across. Since I like STEALTH installs, I took up all the slack in the wires, and tucked them up under the TOP inside lip (shortest distance) and secured with all weather duct tape after cleaning the surface with rubbing alcohol. There's no chance of snagging any of the wires pulling gear in / out of the storage area this way. I ran all the wires tucked under that lip down the drivers side and then down to the floor, where I found a gap going into the storage area of the helm. I pulled up a carpet edge to better find the gap leading into the large storage area in the drivers helm. You can run the amp power wire up either side of the boat from the batteries depending on where you mount the amp. Monterey chose the passenger side rear wall. Had I installed the amp, I would have chosen the drivers side as the door opens nicely to access the back wall of the helm. Either way, when running a new power wire, be sure to use a quality inline fuse directly AT the battery to prevent the power wire from catching fire IF shorted. You can remove the rear speakers on either side if needed to help fish your new power wire up wither side of the boat. I ran a thick 8 gauge wire direct from a 30 amp fuse on the battery to the drivers helm. I ran the wire across the back of the boat in the engine bay zip tied to existing loomed wiring, to the drivers side... I then used a 8 ft fishing pole with the eyelets removed to Fish the power wire up to the side of the drivers helm where I was able to reach it and pull it into the helm area. The existing fuse box is already here, but I wanted 8 gauge power wire as I plan to eventually swap out my sub for a self powered sub, and I also wanted direct battery power for some extra accessories such as my iphone charger, Q-beam light etc... It wasn't all that hard to do, but it did take me several hours while figuring it all out, and making it completely STEALTH and bullet proof. If your a hands on guy you'll have no problem.
