Lake Mead Monster

Can anyone confirm with me the estimated overhead clearance for my 2004 298 SC while on the trailer? The specs say 8' overhead clearance but when I have the boat on the trailer it looks like I need a 14 foot door if I want the boat to fit into a garage. I'm ultimately trying to figure out if I need a 12' or 14' garage door for the boat. Thanks.

Has anybody had experience in using trailer bunk slides as opposed to bunk carpet? I have a trailer for my 04 298 SC that is stored outdoors in the hot desert sun without my boat on it and only use it a couple of times per year. The boat stays on hoist at covered slip. About every two to three years I have to replace the bunk carpet. I'm at that point in time where I need to replace the bunk wood and carpet but I am looking into the trailer slides. Any thoughts and/or experience using these? What about using some type of composite material as opposed to wood for bunks? Thanks

I own a 2004 298 SC that has a total of three batteries. One for the port engine that also runs most of the 12v electrical systems and another for the starboard engine and the final one is specific for starting the generator. My Volvo Penta manual states NOT to use deep cycle batteries on EFI engines and that it can problems with EFI engines. I replace all three batteries every two years and put a deep cycle on the port engine and a dual purpose on the starboard engine and a starting battery on the generator. I put the port and starboard battery switch in the parallel position for starting the engines and then I shut it off. Once I arrive at my destination I shut off the starboard battery and use the port/deep cycle to run stereo, head, water pump, cabin lights, etc. This way you never kill your secondary battery on your starboard engine. This process works good for me and I do not seem to experience any problems with my EFI engines by using a deep cycle battery. How does Volvo Penta expect you to run your 12v systems for any length of time without using a deep cycle battery? Also, am I really at risk of having problems with my EFI engines by using a deep cycle battery?

I have a 2004 298SC with a Kohler 5.0 KW Generator that is leaking coolant. The coolant seems to be leaking when the generator is not even running. It appears the coolant may be leaking from somewhere near the fuel filter area but I could be off if it is "traveling" from another area. The generator has 490 hours on it. Are there any common seals or areas that are prone to this type of coolant leak? Any help or advice would be appreciated.

I learned the washer at the end of the valve stems pry on and off. Called Scandvik and they mailed me all new washers and we are good to go. Thanks.

I wanted to repair and/or replace the faucet stems on my 2004 298 SC. I pulled all five stems (2 in kitchen, 2 in bath and one on sink near ice container). Here are my questions. 1. Can I not just replace the rubber washer on the bottom of the stem to improve the seal? You would think so but it appears you cannot remove that "screw" holding it on. There is a small impression on the "screw" but it appears to be nothing you can put a tool in to remove. 2. Where can I purchase all new faucet stems for my boat? I tried Lowes, Home Depot, West Marine, Plumbing Store and called a camper/RV shop with no luck. I'm not even sure the make of the plumbing fixtures the stems came out of. If it helps I can attach pictures of the stems or the hardware the stems were pulled from. Thanks in advance for your help.

Thanks. Would you happen to have a Volvo support phone number where they can help? I keep getting pointed to my local Volvo shop and they do not have an answer for me.

Not 100% sure how you can open your engine cover but I have a 2004 298 SC and I removed the electric opening motor and have no problems opening the engine cover by hand and it stays open just fine. The electric opener was slow and just drained battery juice. Not sure if you can remove the rear seat bottom in your current state? If you can, you may be able to get into the engine compartment by unscrewing the round door on a potential access hole? Then you may be able to reach in and detach the opener arm. Good luck.

I own a 2004 298 SC with twin Volvo 5.7 GXI-F engines. Port engine would not turn over and mechanic found the fuse/relay box on the top of engine failing (entire box, not just a fuse or relay). It appears those particular fuse/relay boxes have issues and it could be due to vibration. Parts Bulletin P-37-2 (http://www.iboats.com/volvo_penta/P-37-2-2_EN.pdf) has service kit 3808318 to replace the original box and add isolator bushings to help with vibration. This will fix my port engine but can I add the same isolator bushings to the old original fuse/relay box on my starboard engine to help manage vibration and potentially extend its life? My mechanic is not 100% sure if the new parts will work on the older boxes as the new ones are different according to him. Does someone know if the new parts I have listed below will fit the old/original fuse/relay box? Stud #3809480 (These are probably longer studs than original to accommodate the two grommets) Isolator bushing/grommet #3809528 Washer #940275 Nut #3809530 Thanks in advance for your help.

I noticed water leaking from one of the sea water impeller housing on my 2004 298SC with twin 5.7L GXI-F's. The water appears to be coming from a weep hole on the bottom of the housing. I intend on purchasing two Volvo impeller kits (Volvo part #21213660) and just replacing the impellers, O-rings and sealing rings and hope that stops the leak. Does it sound like my plan will stop the leak or am I overlooking something? I guess it could be the housing itself but it seems like I should try the new impeller kits first. The existing impellers are about a year and a half old. Any advice would be appreciated.

I own a 2004 298SC with 5.7s and Volvo Duo props My boat was in need of a Volvo Penta Transom Shield Assembly, part #3868850, so my authorized Volvo repair shop ordered a new one directly from Volvo on 9/11/09. Today is 10/19/09 (38 days) and Volvo cannot even estimate a delivery date. My shop has this placed as an overnight shipment and "emergency" type order. My shop claims this is pretty much normal for ordering parts like this from Volvo. They say sometimes it takes three months and finally a crated part arrives that was build at Volvo overseas. Is this normal for ordering parts like this from Volvo? Is there some way to speed up this order directly with Volvo? Is there a special customer service type number I can call to discuss this? Any help or insight would be appreciated. I would really have to question purchasing future Volvo Penta equipped boats if this is typical when it comes to ordering parts like this. Thanks.

Problem Solved!!! I moved the pump power to a neighboring breaker and the pump ran just fine. Turns out the pump breaker was bad. Replaced the breaker and all is fine. Cheap and easy fix. Sure beats replacing the whole pump.

I have a 2004 298SC and the circut breaker for my Jabsco fresh water pump keeps shutting off. I cleaned the strainer and it did not seem to help. It does seem to work some times but most times you need to keep resetting the breaker. Any idea on what is causing this issue and how to fix it? Seems like it could be a faulty pump or breaker but maybe there is sometihng else I am missing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

My 2004 298SC did not come with the ugraded sound system so I installed a Kenwood KDC-232MR receiver (plus Sirius) along with Infinity 602 speakers (two in galley and two up top, none on radar arch). I'm still not satisfied with the sound and considering installing an amplifier and possibly a subwoofer. Here are some questions I'm hoping someone can answer for me. 1. Where is the best place to install the amplifier? Where does Monterey install the amplifier(s) with the upgraded sound system? 2. Where is the best place to install a subwoofer? Again, where does Monterey install the subwoofer on the upgraded sound systems. Thanks in advance for your help.

Thanks for the information, I really appreciate it. Could you provide me with more information on the arm you used to mount the TV (where did you buy it, further description, model, etc.)? Anything that would help me purchase a TV mounting arm like the one that worked for you. Also, could you elaborate on where you mounted the arm to the boat and where the TV rests when it is not being used. You mentioned mounting the arm to the bulkhead behind the TV cabinet but I'm having trouble picturing how you rigged it all up. Perhaps you put the arm directly behind where my existing TV resides and the new TV actually covers up the existing hole in the cabinet where the old TV used to reside. Then you can grab the TV and pull it outward to access the new storage space where the old TV was. Is this how you rigged it up? Any additional information and/or even a picture would be helpful. Our 04 298SC does lack storage space and since we never use the aft bunk for sleeping we removed the cusion to help provide more storage space in that area. Thanks again.