Jump to content
My Monterey

wirth315

Members
  • Content Count

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About wirth315

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Midwest
  • Interests
    Monterey Boats

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. You can mount the amp on either side... My amp is mounted on the passenger side on the back wall of the porti poti and the wires from the stereo run down and back. You can access those wires by removing the front seat and reaching back. Optional for more room to work fishing those wires is to remove a panel secured to the floor etc with L brackets and phillips screws. A 1" hole is what Monterey used to bring the wires into the porti potti area and hook up to the amp. (See Pic Below) This is Exactly how Monterey does it when you buy a 234 with the Exile Amp package to power the wake board tower speakers. My boat came this way, but I added a sub in the drivers side helm, thus the need to run a speaker wire to the other side of the boat. I installed a large Rockford Fosgate 12" sub in the drivers side helm, and ran new speaker wire from the existing amp on passenger side to the helm on drivers side, by taking the wires to the front of the boat, then back to the drivers helm. Not only did I run new speaker wire, I also replaced the control wire for my remote head unit control as it was non working when I bought the boat. While I was fishing wires, I replaced the RCA cables from the stereo to the amp with high quality RCA wires, as well as added a Rockford fosgate bluetooth module, so I can now stream music from my phone to the Original outdated head unit. :-) The reason I keep the old Kenwood head unit, is I get free XM Satellite radio! Love it when boating as I always have perfect reception and a zillion channels, and it's $120 xm subscription that works year in / out for FREE. :-) Here's a few tips on how I ran the wires... I ran a guide cable (Fish wire) from the stereo to the front passenger storage area to be sure I could reach it, then used that guide cable to pull the new RCA cables and remote control unit cable thru the console to the under the seat area. It's definitely tight, but I managed after a few back / forths. Once you get the wires to the front under seat storage area, you can run them into the porti potti area to amp, or pull them forward and across to the drivers side. I ran the new RCA cables to the existing Exile amp, and the new speaker wire for my sub from the amp to the front under seat storage area on the passenger side. I then pulled the wire to the front of the boat, and reached from the drivers side under seat area and pulled the wires across. Since I like STEALTH installs, I took up all the slack in the wires, and tucked them up under the TOP inside lip (shortest distance) and secured with all weather duct tape after cleaning the surface with rubbing alcohol. There's no chance of snagging any of the wires pulling gear in / out of the storage area this way. I ran all the wires tucked under that lip down the drivers side and then down to the floor, where I found a gap going into the storage area of the helm. I pulled up a carpet edge to better find the gap leading into the large storage area in the drivers helm. You can run the amp power wire up either side of the boat from the batteries depending on where you mount the amp. Monterey chose the passenger side rear wall. Had I installed the amp, I would have chosen the drivers side as the door opens nicely to access the back wall of the helm. Either way, when running a new power wire, be sure to use a quality inline fuse directly AT the battery to prevent the power wire from catching fire IF shorted. You can remove the rear speakers on either side if needed to help fish your new power wire up wither side of the boat. I ran a thick 8 gauge wire direct from a 30 amp fuse on the battery to the drivers helm. I ran the wire across the back of the boat in the engine bay zip tied to existing loomed wiring, to the drivers side... I then used a 8 ft fishing pole with the eyelets removed to Fish the power wire up to the side of the drivers helm where I was able to reach it and pull it into the helm area. The existing fuse box is already here, but I wanted 8 gauge power wire as I plan to eventually swap out my sub for a self powered sub, and I also wanted direct battery power for some extra accessories such as my iphone charger, Q-beam light etc... It wasn't all that hard to do, but it did take me several hours while figuring it all out, and making it completely STEALTH and bullet proof. If your a hands on guy you'll have no problem.
  2. Love it! Your boat is a 234 not 324, but who cares as your video is super cool, and making me want to order seadeck for my 234 FSX!
  3. UPDATE: August 2018 and I replaced my F4 Props with F3 props. Why? With the F4 Props, I could not achieve target RPM the motor is designed to hit. With a light load, the most RPM I could hit was 4500 rpm. Loaded with 4-6 passengers and over 1/2 tank of fuel, I could only hit 4000 RPM. My 5.7 GXI 320 hp motor is capable of 4800-5200 target RPM. After installing the F3 Props, I'm AMAZED at the improvement in hole shot, mid range pep/torque and lastly TOP SPEED! Everything improved! Now I know I have 320 HP!! Just 1/2 to 3/4 throttle gets my boat on plane fast. 0-30 mph times are much quicker by about 2-3 seconds. Mid range cruise is still faster MPH than RPM, and Top Speed is 5000 RPM at 54 MPH with 4 adults / gear, 3/4 tank fuel and my Wakeboard tower bimini deployed. The bimini usually knocked 3 mph off my top speed. I have not yet ran the boat with a light load and under 1/2 tank with the bimini down, but expect to be able to reach 5200 Max RPM of the motor. Pulling my 245 lbs up on a slalom ski took everything the boat had and I would barely get up after dragging 16-18 seconds with the old F4 props that came OEM on the boat. With the New F3 props, my wife has to roll onto the throttle over 2-3 seconds or the rope will just jerk out of my hands! I can pop up on slalom in half the time loaded with 3 passengers and drinks, lunch etc in the boat. Major improvement for sure. I'm very pleased with the F3 prop upgrade and it was worth every penny $1050 I spent on the props. Thanks to Great Lakes Skipper for having the lowest price on the planet for new Volvo Penta props. I couldn't put shiny new props on without painting the lower unit... so I spent an hour to sand and tape off the lower unit before applying 3 coats of new paint. The ideal time to do this is when the props are removed, but I didn't have the paint in hand. :-) End result is a great looking lower unit to compliment the new F3 props. Luckily, I had the volvo penta tool to remove the inside prop... It was still a bear, as the manual says torque to 45 ft lbs... It felt more like 120 ft lbs! But luckily, the shafts were well greased so both props just slid right off. There is very little info. on volvo penta prop selections, pitch size, engine RPM etc. NOTE: IF you CANNOT achieve within 400-500 RPM of the max RPM the motor is rated for... your lugging the motor and leaving a lot of performance on the table. In my case, I was 1200 RPM down at 4000 RPM when loaded with my usual load as target RPM for my GXI motor is 4800-5200 RPM. Usually, by dropping one size on a prop nets 400 RPM increase on average... But not so with the Volvo Penta, as I increased 1000 RPM when loaded from 4000 to 5000, and at least 500 RPM unloaded as I went from 4500 to Undetermined as I haven't driven the boat with a light load yet, but expect to hit 5100-5200 for a 600-700 RPM gain. Note: I will not run the boat that hard very often, and when I do it will be for very short periods of 5-15 seconds just to separate the men from the boys in the 50 MPH Club! :-) I'm happy to cut the throttle back to save gas and wear / tear on the motor. 4200 RPM is now my 45 MPH fast cruise and at 45 MPH you get where your going in a hurry. My favorite cruise speed is 3200 RPM and 35 MPH as the motor sips fuel and the boat rides well in the chop. Hope this evaluation of F4 and F3 Props helps others. Had I read a post like this I would have re-propped to the F3 props day 1. :-) Happy boating Monterey fans.
  4. I had the same problem on my 1998 242 Cruiser... I finally figured it out. For me, it was the Window seals in the cabin windows. Mainly the bathroom window. It leaked on rainy days and allowed water to fill in the low point of hull outside the shower drain bilge box. After sealing both the windows in the cabin, my bow area hull remained dry. :-) Good luck if your still working on a solution. Also, check that your bow hook isn't leaking, as that may place water in that area as well.
  5. My 2007 234FS with GXI motor will reach 50+ mph on GPS with 2-3 passengers and half a tank. In the pic below I'm just cruising at 4000 RPM and running 46 mph with 5 passengers and over 1/2 tank fuel. The GXI is rated for 4800-5200 RPM so your safe propping boat to achieve most power / speed while keeping RPM in this range. Too low rpm and your over propped = to large a pitch. Max RPM or above 5200 then your under propped = to low a pitch. ETC... I have the Volvo dual prop DPS-A drive with 1.78 gear ratio and F4 props front / rear. It's a very efficient set up as ALL cruising speeds are more MPH than RPM. Check your outdrive gear ratio. Could very well be it's the wrong gearing for the much more powerful motor. Your GXI should be matched to the 1.78 gear ratio which is what is printed on my outdrive. Discuss with a Volvo certified mechanic what gear ratio is available for your single prop outdrive. Lastly, if its a salt water boat with bottom paint, barnacle build up etc, then boat performance will be reduced. Good Luck
×
×
  • Create New...