GetAway
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Posts posted by GetAway
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Hello. I have recently purchased a 2003 Monterey 322 and I would like to install a couple of downriggers for Great Lakes salmon fishing and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on the best place to mount them. I am looking at Cannon electric downriggers.
Here in the NW down riggers are mounted on the port and starboard sides of the boat, on top of the gunwales, as far aft as they can be so they don't get tangled in anything.
If you have canvas that covers the aft section of your boat make sure you can still use it for those rainy days.
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I've seen composite material being used on Ship Shape TV that they were using for pier decking. It looked just like wood, came in different colors and you could get the planks in different sizes.
Covering these with carpet made for bunks would work for you and would not rot.
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My throttle control will not come out of neutral. I pressed the button in and moved the control handle forward, it was a little tight, I thought it was due to lack of use.
I started the engine and when I pulled the control lever back and then put it in reverse, the transmission was still in neutral. I took the control handle off and I could see a little ??? in the tube that the control handle is attached by a nut and it also matches up with gear teeth that are on the tube?? I don't know the correct part names.
Anyway there is no way that I can remove the controls via the hole that is there under the handle. The control is attached to the side combing via four long bolts. If I remove these the unit will fall into and behind the combing.
Does anyone know how to remove the combing panel? I'm sure I will have to remove this so I can get the control assembly free and maybe I can open the back of the controls and free up what ever is stuck and won't spring back and allow me to put the transmission in forward or reverse.
This whole assembly is 15 years old and out of production. I have no idea where I will be able to buy this to replace what I have if I can't open the back up and free up or repair what ever it messed up.
If I can not find a exact replacement, what do I replace this unit with? It has electric tilt and trim on the end of the control stick and I use that a lot and it really helps out getting on plane and trimming the boat for max efficiency.
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thanks for you responses. Found my portlights on the Pompanette website. Contacted them and they told me I had to replace the entire portlight. This will be a winter project.
You don't have to wait that long. It will take you only a couple of hours to pull the old one and install the new one using butal tape. It would be much easier to work with the tape when it was warm outside instead of cold.
Ask the people at pompanette how and what they would use to seal the port.
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Racurl I have a 242 Cruiser and my sump is in the same place, under a small hatch that is covered with carpet. It's a clear plastic box with a mesh filter to catch hair, the pump and the float switch to turn the pump on.
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Check your tuneup, timing. I was getting 4800 rpm until I had a shop 'tune' my engine. They didn't tune it up while in the water, they used muffs on the hard. I lost 800 rpm. I use to be able to get 43 to 45 mph but now I can only get 4000 rpm and 35 mph.
I'm going to check my timing and retune the engine myself and the boat will be in the water when I do. I have the Volvo 5.7l GS engine which I think is close to your engine, both are 350's.
This might be your case too. Your rpm's seem to be pretty low. Look on this site for an owner's manual for your boat, they have several on this site. That might help you out. Also search the web for your engine and any information you can find on the specs of your engine and the rpm range it should run at.
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OK, looks like i´ve understood it correctly then:)
However, I did find the parallel switch in On position once, asked my wife if she had been touching any of the battery
switches but No...our kids (two boys 8 & 10) did of course both also denied...
Could something have been damaged during leaving the parallel switch in On position for a couple of hours?
/Persk
When your parallel switch is 'on' your drawing power from both the port and starboard batteries at the same time and are discharging both at the same time. When in the 'off' position each battery is separate from each other. If the port (or starboard) battery goes flat, the other battery will not be effected. If one goes flat you put the switch in the 'on' position and you're drawing from both at the same time and the flat battery will be connected to the full battery allowing your to start both engines.
You won't damage anything having the switch in the 'on' position but you run the risk of discharging both batteries at the same time and you will have nothing in reserve to start either engine.
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I have a 2008 Monterey 318 SSX and want to add auto pilot as I am updating the GPS system. What should I use that is compatible with the Mercruiser SmartCraft systems? I hear the Raymarine are not fully compatible to with the SmartCraft so I am looking for other options.
Thanks
Look into Garmin and see if that would work for you.
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For MOST: please provide the model number of the Bowmar portlight in the head of my 2009 280 SCR. I need to replace the frosted, smoked lens and hinge on the inside.
Thank you!
Try this site: www.pompanette.com/bomar. Look at the different port lights that they have. If you have any questions give them a call, their phone and fax numbers
are listed in the contact us section.
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I read a message on another site about NoFlex Digestor that you use in your black water waste tank. Usually when my wife and I are out for 3 or 4 days and we pump out the waste tank it smells ripe.
I ordered this NoFlex Digestor from the company's web site. It is a powder and I used 2 tablespoons into the waste pump out line and another two straight into the bowel then added a little water to both to activate the chemical.
This stuff is like magic! No more smell at all. I did have a slight musty smell inside of the cabin and that was gone too so it must have been coming from the waste tank.
You don't use any other chemical in your waste tank, just this chemical. If you're having a slight or strong smell in your boat, give this a try. It also says on the container you can sprinkle this powder onto your waste tank hoses then spray some water onto the hose & chemical to activate it and leave it. This will kill any smell that is coming from an old hose.
This was my first dose of the chemical so I over did it a little but it was worth it. Now I'll follow the instructions and will use a lot less for every treatment forward.
Do a search on the name and your search engine should take you to the company's web site. I have not seen this in any marine supply stores but it might be in a store in your area or order it on line like I did. It comes out of Washington state.
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getaway great explanation thank you for the write up. I think I will look into your way.
Glad I could help. It sure worked for me and that tape is CHEAP. I bought my roll from an RV store. You can also use it to bed your railings too. Any place that water might get a chance to enter your boat.
If you believe a part of your railing is leaking loosen up that stansion put some tape under all of it then secure it back onto the deck. As you tighten up the bolts you'll squeeze the tape out but there will still be tape under the foot of that stansion that will spread out and cover the underside. All you'll have to do is use your finger and remove the excess tape that squeezed out. No muss not fuss and NO LEAK!!
Good Luck. Let us know how you make out in a future post.
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Mark,
The trim piece is one full length. It is attached by screws that are under the fold over that you see along the length I think that there is either 4 or 5 of these. You just have to pull the fold out of the way and the screw will be exposed for you to remove it. Remove all of the screws and the trim piece will come right off.
Peter
Peter thanks a million. I didn't pull enough of the covering over to see that there were screws holding it on.
Taking the boat out tomorrow for a three day fishing trip on the Columbia River. While on the hook I'll finish taping into a set of wires so I have 12 volts on the starboard side. That will allow me to have that CO detector there and an outlet to plug the TV into without having to have the TV's wire across the cabin to be plugged into the port side.
Thanks Peter!
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where can I purchase a manual to show what parts are needed to do a spring & fall tune up / oil change/ etc
I don't know which boat or engine you have. I have a Volvo Penta. I purchased Volvo Penta Stern Drive Sop Manual by Clymer http://www.clymer.com. The first printing was 1997 and the last that's in my manual is 2006. My manual covers 1994-2000. I have a 2000 242CR.
It covers the engine and tuneup specs, trim systems, outdrive, and it should have what you're looking for.
I would do the final tuning with the outdrive in the water, not on muffs because they have BTDC degrees that the engine should be running at and around 2500 rpm. I don't want to run the engine about 1000 rpm on the muffs. I don't think the seawater/freshwater pump can draw enough water from the muff at 2500 rpm.
Read your owner's manual for starting the engine and it should tell you the max rpm that you should run the engine at when the boat is out of the water and using the muffs or rubber cups that are attached to a garden hose.
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I had two horns. I went to an auto parts store and bought a double set for $30. In 'amanphoto' photos the forth photo to the right looks more or less like the double set I installed .
I was able to angle both outputs to the mesh opening and they are louder than just a single horn, just like the first picture he posted. I purchased that single horn and I didn't think it was loud enough so I returned it to wmarine.
Northwest boaters are deft! When launching or retrieving their boats, they are the "get out of my way it's all mine" people and you need a horn that they can really hear when you blow it 5 blasts.
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Hello, I need to replace the side windows (hatches) rubber gasket for my 2001 Monterey 262, I bought some D-sponge gasket but it is not thick enough, has anyone done this? Where could I get replacements ??
Thank you
I have a 242 Cruiser. I pulled all four of my windows to reseal them. Three of them had a small leak with the water running down the bottom of the window.
I didn't have any gaskets. Two of the windows had been worked on before me and silicone was used and it took me all day to remove.
I used butyl tape to reseal the windows. It was super easy to work with, it's like gray sticky thick puddy. The tape comes in different flat widths.
I put a row of tape on the inside up against the part of the window that is against the outside of the boat, then a row of tape around the large 3 or 4 inch section, you see what I'm talking about when you pull the widow.
When I reinstalled the window it was tight due to the tape. I used a rubber mallet to tap the window back into place. This spread the tape out because the window got "larger" in diameter due to the tape and this spreading out of the tape sealed the inside and outside of the window. You put the chrome strip back around the outside of the window and you're done. No more leaks and I live in "Water Wonderland" it's wet 9 months of the year.
The nice part of this is the tape never gets hard, it will not crack, it will not pull away when you're in heavy water and the boat flexes.
The fourth window that I did was by mistake
I pulled the window that was for the head that never leaked. I wanted to pull the single window that is forward of the head and the only window for the cabin on the starboard side. I placed my ladder near the head window then went into my garage to get my tools and when I returned I didn't look twice and just went to work pulling the WRONG window. But in the end I felt a lot better about my mistake because I know that window won't leak in the future.It's work but well worth it. Good luck!
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Windlass Install 010.JPGWindlass Install 024.JPGWindlass Install 026.JPGWindlass Install 034.JPGWindlass Install 036.JPGWindlass Install 038.JPGWindlass Install 064.JPGWindlass Install 076.JPGWindlass Install 078.JPGDan,
The first picture - wire loom with wires running through that I used to get past the head.
The second picture - that I removed the trim piece and that is where I ran the wires behind, in the cabin.
The third picture - the wire loom on the aft side of the head under the helm.
The fourth picture - where the wires came through from the cabin into the anchor locker.
The fifth picture - the template on the mounting shelf in the anchor locker.
The sixth picture - the contactor mounted in behind the battery switches.
The seventh picture - the switch mounted on the dash.
The eight picture - the windlass mounted in the locker (NOTE the wedge under the windlass to keep the chain level over the bow of the boat).
The last picture - the anchor locker closed over the windlass.
Hope this helps if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask - I have alot more pictures and I will give you any other information you need.
Peter
Peter in your second picture, the trim piece above the window/porthole, how is it attached and how do you remove it? In your picture I need to get behind this section/trim piece. You have two sections, a short one then the next one heading forward is a long section.
My first section is a long section and I need to get to the wires behind this. I don't want to break the attaching point if there's a little trick to release the fastener. My wires for my windless, the forward navigation lights and horns. I want to tap into one of these to install a new CO detector. The detector draws about .16 mili-amps, no big draw and it's a bear to pull a new set of wires for such a small draw.
Thanks Peter,
Mark
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How is the trim strip in the back of the cabin seating area removed? I want to access the wires that are behind this trim strip.
These wires are on the starboard side of the cabin and come from behind the head, travel forward for the windless, navigation lights and horn.
I want to tap into one of these sets to install a CO detector that draws mili-amps, nothing large. It appears this strip is in sections about 18 inches long for each section. I can touch the wires behind the first section that is next to the hanging closet because it is not fastened there. I need to get that first section to release so I can get to the wires there.
I did a search but can not find the person that had a great set of pictures taken when he installed wires for a windless that he installed. If you're out there H E L P !!
Mark
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Try http//boatoutfitters.com out of Ocoee Fl.
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It would be connected to the pump by a hose and the other end would be connected to a threw hull valve. It should be in the engine compartment with easy access so you can install a lock on it when you're not in an area that you can discharge your waste.
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There is a color chart that goes by the color's name and by boat year here on the site. Look around and you'll find it.
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Is this a boat that was owned by another party? The network is an add on. To see what it looks like go to http//westmarine.com and do a search. It is some cables with connectors and a power cable connector. If it's already installed in your boat most likely it is under your steering wheel where most of your wires are connected to your power board.
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I'm looking for the cubic feet of the cudy of a 250cr. I want to put ac / heat in but not sure how big or small of a unit I need. Thanks for the help.
Length times width will give you squre feet. That will take care of your cabin.
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You apply the 303 protectant on top of the 303 waterproofing? Interesting, I'm sure it helps with slow fading. Does the water still bead?
I've done it both ways, UV first then the protectant and the other way around protectant then waterproofing and the water beads up just fine both ways. I added the protectant after the waterproofing because I didn't have any protectant on hand the day I was cleaning the cover and my parts store is 27 miles away and I didn't want to take the time off of my project to do the driving that day.
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I ran into the same problem with a 5.7l GS Volvo, duel prop like yours, a 242 CR, I went to a place that tuned my engine up but didn't do it while the boat was in the water. I could only get up to 4000 rpm and it use to get upto 4800 rpm.
I put the boat in salt water like you and retuned the engine myself. The timing was off a little. I tuned by the timing mark then by ear and I'm back upto 4800 rpms.
My engine is carberated not electronic. I believe your engine is fuel injected so you have electronics that manage your engine. I have an 1988 Corvette with a 5.7 engine that has one plug that has one wire that has to be unplugged then you can time the engine using the timing mark on the flywheel. This may be the case with your engine, I'm not sure, I don't know anything about your engine but this is what I would look for. See if you can find a shop manual for your engine and that may show you what to do to be able to disengage the electronic timing so you can tune.
Electronics are great when they work right but a pain to troubleshoot when they don't.
Hot water issue on cr250
in General Discussion
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I hope someone had an answer, I have the same problem. My lines are clear, I added an accumulator to keep the pressure up, and I replaced the water pump with one that pumps a higher pressure all with no luck.