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My Monterey

GetAway

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Posts posted by GetAway


  1. I'm thinking about removing the flap inside the anchor locker because I think the rode is holding it closed and it collects leaves. Instead of the flap I'd install a clam shell cover to stop the splashes from entering.

     

    Does anyone foresee a problem with removing the flapper and installing the cover?

     

    Thanks in advance

     

    Collecting leaves...isn't it a boat that's on the water :huh: Sorry I just couldn't help myself :)

     

    My anchor locker has a very small hole and most leafs wouldn't pass thru. I just cleaned my locker out, the first time in 2 years and there wasn't much in the bottom, not even any seaweed/eel grass.


  2. I changed the impeller before the end of last season. Would be out of shape sitting in same position over the winter ? Do you guys change the impeller every season ?

     

    Thanks again,

    Joe

     

    I changed mine before last season began. I ran it all season and I'm going to run it all of this season. I'll change it out to a new one next year. I didn't remove it before I layed the boat up for the season, I should have but just didn't get to it. If my engine temp. went about 155 on my gauge then I would have changed it out this year.

     

    Leaving it in you run the risk of the impeller fingers taking a set but I guess I got lucky. I carry a spare replacement kit with me.


  3. What's the normal engine cruising temperature, depending on RPM ?

     

    I have a '94 model 246 with a 5.7 Volvo Penta (350 Chevy engine). At idle, engine temp is 160....at 2200 RPM around 180/190.....at 3000 RPM, 200 degress. Is this normal or am I experiencing a restricted water flow (manifol/riser issue) ?

     

    Thanks,

    Joe Culhane

     

    Look in the Product Support section of the forums and find your owner's manual. The temp should be in there.

     

    I have a 2000 242 CR with the 5.7 Volvo engine and my engine temp is usually a constant 150 degrees. It might climb to 155 degrees when running 4000 rpm but I do not run with that high of an rpm. I usually cruise at 3200 to 3400 rpm and I see 150 degrees constant.

     

    This is running in both fresh water (Columbia River OR.) and salt water (Puget Sound WA.)


  4. I've driven up onto the trailer and we've also both floated the boat up onto the trailer with 5 or so feet left to winch up. My hand winch pulls the boat up okay, I'm getting older and don't want to crank it anymore. The ocean water temp is always in the low 50's during the summer and mid to low 40's in the winter, and neither of us looks forward to walking in it. I'd rather press a button and let electricity pull the boat up the last few feet.


  5. Are you using an electric trailer winch and if so, which brand?

     

    Pros and Cons.

     

    Many of the ramps here in the Northwest are pretty steep and I'm no spring rooster anymore and would like a bit of electric help.

     

    With all of the different winch companies, Powerwinch, Warn, Rule, I'm not sure which would be a long lasting winch (execpt Warn, I'm sure they'll last my lifetime.).

     

    Thanks in advance

     

    Mark


  6. My boat is setup a bit different. I'll work on it. Thanks for your help.

     

    Picture #6 & 7, did you use rubber on the deck to protect the gel coat? It appears the chain is going to drag on the gel coat in front of the winch when it's being let out or brought back in.

     

    My battery selector switch is on the bulkhead in the middle of the engine compartment. I'm not sure what you call the battery box. If you mean a box that the battery sits in, mine are on the port side.

     

    Thanks again Peter.

     

    Mark


  7. Hi Dan,

     

    I installed a Lewmar V700 last year in my 2005 250CR. I used it all summer and it worked excellent the unit fit under the lid to the anchor locker so it is not seen. It has lots of holding power never a problem with loosing anchor. Install took a little while as I fished the wires from the engine room to the locker. I do have pics. of it if you would like to see them let me know and I will load them.

     

    Peter

     

    Hello Peter,

     

    Great pictures. Question... from the engine room, how did you snake the wires towards the bow? What did you use for a snake? I'm having a heck of a time trying to get wires forward. I am going to install the Garmin Fuel Flow system and the NMEA 2000K network and I'm having problems running them to the cockpit. I have a 2000 242 Cruiser.

     

    Any help would be more than fantastic!

     

    Mark


  8. I own a 2005 250cr with a Volvo Engine/Drive

     

    Where do I find a replacement engine temperature gauge?

     

    Where do I find a replacement head portal glass?

     

    Thank you!

     

    The Faria company is in Conn. You can google for the phone number and their address. I had to replace my temperature guage and was told by Faria that I had to go through West Marine buy the guage. The Faria company will not sell to you direct. Pull the guage and call Faria to see if they still make the model you have. My boat is a 2000 and they did have the correct gauge with the correct gold color trim ring and they did. I could not find the guage with the same gold colored ring on any network site.


  9. I have a 2000 242 Cruiser. I have the magma grill and I mounted the base that the mounting pole screws into, between the rungs of the swim steps on my extended swim platform. I open the hatch to the swim step and screw in the mounting pole then put the grill onto the pole.

     

    We do a lot of fishing and crabbing and crusing in the Pacific and here in the Northwest the water is in the 50 degree range in the summer. We don't do any swimming up here.

     

    With the base in our location we don't step or trip over it, it's out of the way but handy when needed.

     

    Enjoy.


  10. I am looking for a full cover for my 1999 262 cruiser that has the extended swim platform. I am having a hard time finding a custom fit one that will fit over the platform. Has anyone bought a custom or semi-custom cover for the 262? I am in the northeast (philly burbs) so I need something a little heavier for the winter. My goal is to find something that will replace yearly shrink wrapping.

     

    Thanks in advance for your time.

     

    Joe

     

    Contact Taylor Made, they are the company that has the patterns and made the canvas for our boats.


  11. Hello Just went on a seatrail on a 1998 monterey 242 cruiser, it was very windy and good chop. She handled very well and pulled good out of hole shot.

    My concern is that at full throttle 4500rpm i was only getting 33mph with have a tank of fuel and no water and emtpy waste tank.

    I am looking to get some info on this model with 5L merc and alpha one outdrive, the boat was equiped with a 17p prop.

    Is there any spec sheets or old brochures for this model and any other concerns with this model would much be appriciated.

    Thanks Richard

     

    I have a 2000 242 Cruiser with a 5.7 GS 270 hp engine and DP stainless props. With 70 gallons of gas, 20 gallons of water, one Trojan start battery and two SC 225 deep cycle house battery's, a Honda 2000 generator, two adults about 160 lbs each, 1 lab dog at 100 lbs. plus cloths and food for a couple of weeks cruising the San Juan Island and into Canada.

     

    At 3000 rpms I'm doing 23 mph, at 3200 rpm I'm doing 27 mph. At 4000 rpm I'm doing 36 mph. Recorded by my spedo and also a Garmin 740s Chart Plotter.

     

    My boat on my galvanized duel axle trailer ready for 2 weeks cruising in the Puget Sound, Victoria and Sidney Canada and the San Juan Islands weights 8800 lbs.

     

    I've crossed the Strait of San Juan de Fuca with full camper canvas up, with small craft warning, 25 mph winds with gusts to 32 mph, 6 foot swell with 4 foot wind waves coming from Victoria Canada to Port Townsend Washington. My wife broke her ankle in Canada and we had to return to the states and medical attention. I did 15 to 19 mph and got hit by water in the starboard windshield one time. The boat rode like a dream.


  12. Would you please provide the Manufacturer (Bomar?) and part number for the Porthole replacement screen on a 2005 Montura 248LSC? If you do not have the part number for the screen only, please provide the p/n for the entire unit. The portholde unit shape is elliptical, the inside of the porthole is white and the outside is stainless steel.

    Thank you!

     

     

    The Bomar part number is PORT-81811-S-WHITE. Vendor direct contact is www.pompanette.com or 603-826-5791.

     

    Do a search for porthole. I found this entered by MOST for another person. Copied and pasted it here to help you out. There are several messages that will pop up if you do a search on porthole.

     

    Good luck.


  13. did you ever get an answer to this? I'm looking for similar replacements.

     

    Do a search for porthole or portholes or portlight or portlights.

     

    You can try this place as posted by MOST and I copied it to help you guys.

     

    The Bomar part number is PORT-81811-S-WHITE. Vendor direct contact is www.pompanette.com or 603-826-5791.

     

    There's another message that lists itc-marine.com but I didn't see any portlights/porthole listed there. The message lists a phone number to call and has a picture of an oval portlight that is black in color.

     

    Bomar is the company that made the small and large (on the bow over the cabin) units.


  14. If you're going to use the boat in salt water all of the time then I would add a fresh water cooling system (FWC) to your engine. The system will use antifreeze in your engine instead of salt water. You hot water tank will be heated by the same antifreeze and not salt water as it is with a raw water cooling system.

     

    If you don't add a FWC system you might want to look into a system that will inject Salt Away or another chemical that is the same only a different name. For a couple of hundred dollars this will have a tank with the chemical in it and plumbed into your engine. There will be a button on your console that you press while your engine is at idle. This will inject the salt away into your engine and it will neutralize the salt in your engine, then you shut the engine off.

     

     

    My boat has the Volvo 5.7 liter GS engine and I added a FWC system. I use my boat in both salt water in the Pacific Ocean and also in fresh water in the Columbia River. When I trailer the boat I always flush the engine with salt away and also spray the whole boat down then rinse off with plain water. After that I wash the boat and trailer with a boat wash.

     

    Protect your engine and the gelcoat as much as you can. Salt can really do a lot of damage in a short amount of time.

     

     

    Enjoy your new "Toy".

     

     

     

    Mark

     

     


  15. I like that idea, I don't want something to stub a toe on.

     

    How come no one installed a gunwale mounted rod holder and put a grill into it?

     

    I boat/fish year round and it rains from October to June here in Oregon. I keep the side windows installed to keep the mist/rain out and I also use the grill year round so mounting on the swim step was the best area for me. If I lived where there was sun, more than the two/three months we see it, then I would have mounted on the gunwale.


  16. I have a 2000 242 cruiser and I replaced that part that you show in your message but I only paid 65.00 for it from a site on here on the web. Search around, 184.00 is way too much money for that unit.

     

    My thru hull valve is in the same spot as Peter's and yours. I found a bottle of lube that for this pump at West Marine for about 11.00. I didn't think about using baby oil or dawn dish soap as a lube but they work too. I was told to use mineral oil a few times a season and during winter layup by the person that did the survey on my boat. I was picking up some chemicals for the holding tank and felt rich and picked up that WM lube.

     

    It's super easy to change out that pump unit but gee, 184.00 is out of line.

     

    Good luck,

     

    Mark


  17. I mounted a Magma grill on my extended swim step between the rungs of the ladder on my 242 Cruiser. Raise the latter door and screw in the pole to the base that's between the ladder rungs then put the grill onto the post and enjoy your meal.

     

    When you're finished let the grill cool and take it all down then shut the cover. No pedestal base to step/trip over.


  18. I have a 2000 242 Cruiser with a 5.7 GS engine and a Volvo DUO-Prop sterndrive. Should there be a cone covering the nut that is used to secure or remove the props?

     

    I don't have one. I've seen several pictures of other Volvo DUO-Props and IPS units that all have a cone that covers this nut and I think this cone might be made out of zinc or plastic.

     

    Thanks in advance,

     

    Mark


  19. I noticed last week that while on the boat the head handle is extremely difficult to pull up and push down. For the most part, I can get it to flush into the holding tank, but I cannot pull any water to the toilet. This design doesnt seem that technical so I am wondering if there is a shutoff valve or something like that that may be in the off position. Is anyone familiar if such a thing exists? Last week was the first I used the head and this is my first year with the boat. I looked on Youtube and videos of these types of heads make it so the handle should be rather simple to push and pull. Any ideas? Thanks.

     

    I don't know what type of boat you have but on my 2000 242 Cruiser, outside of the head door in front of the mid cabin berth there's a small step that the lid lifts up. Under that step is a ball valve and thru hull fitting. That valve is your water intake for the head. The handle of the valve should be straight up and down position to be in the open position. There is also a bilge pump and float switch and a plastic box with a bilge pump and switch inside. That box is where your shower drains into.


  20. Thinking about adding this to my 282CR. Anyone have any experience with this type of gage?

     

    Faria-Chesapeake-White-SS-Fuel-Manager.jpg

     

    I googled this system because it is the same gauges that I have on my 242. I've read several reviews and all say this system starts out running okay then after a little while the numbers it delivers is all wrong.

     

    I'm going to go with a Flowscan system instead. It's the same cost and a little easier to use. The Faria system's Flow and Total buttons having multifunctions and I having CRS, I wouldn't be able to remember which set to press for which function.

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