GetAway
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Posts posted by GetAway
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We have a 2000 242 CR with a Volvo Penta 5.7 GS engine. The fit and finish are fine. I'd like a bit more room in the engine bay. It was raw water cooled but I changed that and added FWC. The heat exchanger took up more room that I thought it would. I have to loose weight so I can stop getting stuck between the heat exchanger and the bulkhead.
I would like more storage spaces like some draws around the frig and under the sink. Also some storage in the head but besides those two things my wife and I really enjoy the boat. We spend a couple of weeks in the San Juan Islands and Canada. I've run into some heavy seas going to Friday Harbor and also had an emergency and had to return to Port Townsend from Victoria Canada during small craft warnings and the sea looked like it was boiling. You couldn't tell where the waves were coming from. We were hit by one wave and the water splashed up onto the windshield once. Other than that one splash the boat road well and the seas were pretty rough. We were crossing the Straights of San Juan.
We also cruise the Columbia River here in Oregon salmon fishing.
You'll enjoy the 26, there's plenty of room for you and yours and I'm sure it's a very good riding and safe boat.
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I wish I had as much room in my engine bay as you do. I can add another size 31 on the starboard side but that's it. That will give me 4 total.
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When I bought my used 282CR I also had a broken one. I ordered it from my dealer and had it in 3 or 4 days. I also changed all bulb to LED. They are cool and use next to no power/battery.
Do you have a bulb number and/or place to purchase the LEDs? I'd like to replace the three in the lamps like the lamp that is broken in the first message in this thread.
Thanks in advance,
Mark
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Still waiting to see those pictures.
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Sometimes this valve gets stuck. If your unit cools while in the air cond. mode and when you switch to the heating mode and you do not get any heat then your reversing valve could be stuck. Tapping it with a soft hammer, not very hard just a couple of taps usually frees the valve up and it slide to the correct position.
The same holds true when you go from heating to cooling, the valve could get stuck in the heating mode and a tap or two will free it up and it will shift to the cooling mode. Your unit is like a heat pump used in homes and other buildings, it cools and heats. If you talk to someone that is in the air condition heating business they could explain it better to you than I am here.
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I found two heaters from Heater Craft sold by Defender.com Marine Outfitter at a good price. One is a 28,000 btu unit and the other is a 40,000 btu heater. Both use the water from you engines cooling system. It works with both a raw water and freshwater-closed water systems. They have a 3 speed fan and hardware to install.
I'm looking into the 28,000 btu unit. It's salmon fishing time and it's cold and wet out there. We here in Oregon don't tan, we rust!!
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How did you hook these extra batteries up? Did you tie into your starting batteries? Does you engine and/or battery charger charge these?
I'd like to add a couple more to my system but I don't have the room for them. It's pretty tight in a 242's engine compartment.
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I have a 242 Cruiser, single engine with two batteries. On the battery selector switch #1 battery is the aft battery. I installed a 225 ah deep cell Trojan battery that I was going to add to the forward battery which is #2 on the switch. I am going to use battery #1 just for starting the engine. I am going to connect the frig. to bank #2 so it can run all night without having to worry about draining any of the banks. I have a Charles battery charger that will charge three banks. At the present time I have all three batterys being charged by this charger. When I add the 225 to battery #2 I will disconnect the charger from the 225 and leave it connected to the #2 battery. The charger should be able to charge both batteries as a bank on #2.
I'll let you know how it all works out once I'm finished. It's too wet around here right now to work on the boats electrical system without getting soak and wet.
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I highly suspect the panel is a standard panel. If you have AC, the unit would be located under one of the seats in the V berth. Seeing as you can't get into it until spring, do you remember a panel similar to the one circled in my picture? If so, then you have AC. If you can't remember, take a look outside on the starboard side. If you see an drain outlet just above the waterline under the forward port window, you probably have AC. That drain is the outlet for the AC....conversly you'll have an inlet on the bottom of the boat near the stern.
Dan looking at the picture you provided, how do you remove the bulb in that light that's in the picture to the right of the A/C controls?
Thanks,
Mark
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Thanks for the help MOST the info was good for the Taylor Made OEM with one exception they have changed their part number system.
They were very helpful in providing the correct ones for this boat model.
I first tried great lakes but they do not list this specific model.
I do have a question though.
They quoted me prices for the camper canvas sides and back and the connector which attaches to the windshield and the front of the bimini.
I'm not sure if there are side peices that would go from the bimini down to the port and starboard sides to make a complete enclosure.
I have the Taylor Made canvas sets. Go to their site and you can see the two types of sets you can have. I have both. Each use a windshield extenstion up from the windshield to the front bimini. The front bimini zips up to the rear bimini. There are four side windows plus an aft curtain that has full windows and zips on the starboard side to make a door. This makes a full camper set. I also have a rear canvas that zips to the front bimini and slops down towards the rear of the boat over the rear seat. There is one window in the middle of this canvas and no rear side curtains, just the front side curtains and windshield extension. Plus I have the mooring cover that covers the full cockpit.
All of these windows/curtains zip to each other at the top and sides of each other and all fasten at the bottom of each piece to the boat by snaps.
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Hi folks
Well the purchase went through for the 2003 245 CR.
The boat will be stored until spring.
I want to get an average trailer weight for this boat.
I know that it is listed at either 5800 or 6100lbs dry weight depending on who you talk to.
I want to talk with someone else that owns this or a comparable model to find what their actual weight is on the trailer.
I can do the figures for the fuel and water but the other things I might not anticipate for.
I'm figuring about 7200lbs including the trailer and about 7800 with a full load.
Any help will be appreciated
Thanks
I have a 2000 242 CR on an EZ Loader galvanized duel axle trailer with spare tire. It has a 22 lb anchor with 20 feet of chain and 160 feet of rode. Fully loaded with cooking supplies, a full water tank, double Bimini with side and aft curtains, shore power cable, 50 feet of water hose and an EU2000i Honda generator, I tip the scales at 7100 lbs. weight at a truck scale.
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I found some depth markers on the internet made out of vinyl. You put these between the strands in your rode so you can tell how many feet of rode that you let out. They are a little thicker than paper and go through the windless without any problems or hang ups and they don't tear. The depths are in three different colors, green up to 100 feet then red, then yellow.
Sure is easy to let out the correct amount of rode without having to guess how much you've already payed out.
If I remember correctly I believe I paid less than $10.00 for the set. I left a comment on the selling site to us the US Post office to send me the set otherwise the UPS shipping charge was almost the price of the marker set.
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MOST I have a 2000 242 CR and I'm missing the windlass wrench, it was not with the boat when I purchased it from the previous owner. Do you have any contact information as to where I might get a wrench just in case I need it in the future?
Thank you,
Mark
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Hello dcamt,
Your gauges are a Faria product (www.faria-instruments.com or 800-473-2742) and the year 2002 242CR part numbers were:
FUEL GAUGE- GP9932
OIL GAUGE- GP9623
SPEEDOMETER- SE9000
TACHOMETER- TC9000
TEMP GAUGE- GP9428
TRIM GAUGE- GP9223
VOLT GAUGE- VP9223
you can contact them direct regarding warranty or repair.
My temp gauge stopped working. I contacted Faria and was told in order to buy a new gauge I had to order it via West Marine. Faria does not sell direct. You order it through West Marine and Faria ships it from their plant in Conn. to you. (drop ship)
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I have a 2000 242 foot cruiser with a 5.7 GS Volvo engine with FWC, three batteries, one start and two house, with an SX duel prop out-drive, on a 2000 EZ Loader galvanized, duel axle trailer. Fully loaded with 70 gallons of gas, 20 gallons of water, 13" TV, cooking pans, food, cloths etc.. total weight 7300 lbs. including the trailer.
While in the water and using the toilet that adds more weight. My holding tank is 20 gallons but I usually have it pumped out and only a gallon of water when the boat is on the trailer.Click on the picture to make it larger. -
Look inside of your head (bathroom) and at the floor. You'll see a floor drain. This floor drain goes to that box you are asking about. Lift the cover that will expose the box and look at the hose that goes into the box. Follow the hose from the box and you'll see it goes into your head. There is a switch and a pump inside of that plastic box that drains the water out. This system is to drain the water from your head when you are using the shower.
Take a hose or a bucket of water or use your shower and pour water it into the drain in your head (bathroom) and you should hear that pump inside of the box turn on. After it does, go to the outside of your boat and find the scupper (drain) that is on the side of your boat. It should be made of metal and silver in color. The one that is wet is the scupper that is the drain for the pump for your shower or inside of that plastic box. There is a filter in that box too that will collect the hair or anything else that goes down that drain and into that box. Clean it out once in a while.
Also for your toilet, do NOT put anything into that toilet that has not been eaten! No paper, toys, NOTHING!
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I have a 2000 242 CR that has little plastic spot lights for lighting. How do you remove the bulbs on these lights? What bulbs are used in these types of lights?
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I had to replace a couple of parts and went to my local hardware store and got everything I needed. The sink stuff, taps etc...are used in home bars etc...and parts are interchangable. I changed the gasket in the shower head and the end of the tap in the galley.
I'm a bit late in a thank you reply. I didn't add this discussion to my watch list. I'm going to make the gasket that I need. It's nice to know that I might be able to find what I need at Home Depot or Lowes etc.
Again, thanks for the reply. For some reason you don't see a lot of replys to many of the messages entered on this sight and we all have Monterey boats!!
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1,000 Island's sounds intriguing, and I understand restrictions to ensure all aspects, human and ecology are being protected. In Florida, there are many places to boat however, few places which have such restrictions and which lack the scenery associated with Canada's 1,000 Island's. Here it's every man for him or her self, meaning; if your neighbor's exhaust is detected you probably would be better to just move. Regarding your Honda, have you heard of the ground issue or "Floating Ground" with the Honda and if so what if any have you done regarding this condition. I am still gaining more info on this so bare with me, I am learning as I go and hopefully not the hard way.
I appreciate your comments and most importantly you sharing your knowledge (experiences) good and bad boating with alternative power source.
Alan
I just bought a Honda generator. Can you fill me in with what you know about this floating ground? I have not heard about this.
Thanks,
Mark
2000 Monterey 242 CR
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Hello All,
I am new to this forum as we just picked up a 2006 248LS and love it. We were very close to buying a pontoon but just fell in love with this. In looking at pontoon boats I loved the fact that you can get a gas grill that mounts to the rails. Has anyone done this with a Monterey bowrider? I would love to see some pictures or suggestions. Thanks everyone and I look forward to being a long time member of the happy Monterey owners!
The BBQ's that I've seen, both round and rectangle, have brackets that you buy (extra) that allow you to attach to the rails, or to fishing pole holders. I've seen some people use a base and pole, much like the base and pole of a table and place the base in the swim ladder hatch between the ladder rungs. When not in use they unscrew the pole and the base is hidden behind the hatch that closes over the ladder. The biggest seller of grills is the Magma company. There are one or two others but Magma is the one I see mostly.
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Hello,
Maybe MOST can answer this. Where can I buy a cover for my 2003 248LS? An original cover. The one I have is getting worn quite a bit and I was wondering if they were still available to buy? Thanks
The covers that are on my 2000 242 CR were made by Great Lakes Boat Covers in Tenn. They have a web site.
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The head sink leaks. Where can I find the gasket that's against the sink itself? Who makes the drain parts? The gasket and also the rubber part that the hose is connected to?
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With the addition of ethanol to the majority of our refueling stops, and will continue to do so, what do we have to consider. From the research I have done, "Since ethanol-blended fuels attract and hold moisture, ethanol content can contribute to causing corrosion of tank material in aluminum fuel tanks. Corrosion material can clog fuel filters and damage injectors, carburetors, and other fuel system components. Stainless steel and plastic fuel tank materials are not affected by ethanol-blended fuels. However, ethanol-blended fuel can act as a solvent, loosening and washing old deposits or contaminates into the fuel system."(http://www.volvopenta.com).
Volvo's web site says the engine can be run on E10 or 10% ethanol-blend. My boat is a 2000 242 CR. I'm on a trailer. I filled up at a station that had 97 octane and NOT blended with ethanol. I'm in Oregon and this was two weeks ago and I paid $4.30 a gallon for 50 gallons. I'm sure the price has gone up in the past couple of weeks. Most of the fuel docks in my area sell non-blended fuel and you can find it at many of the fuel docks at the coast in both Oregon and Washington.
I have a fuel filter that also has a water filter/area at the bottom of the filter so I can drain any water that might be in the fuel but so far I have not seen any. It's not a bad idea to add a chemical to your fuel that conditions the fuel. It raises the cost per gallon of your fuel but I'd rather pay a little more for the protection than be stuck 5 miles off of the coast with a dead engine.
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I experimented with that location but found that it was a strain on the neck while laying down in the v berth and would be easy to kick the screen. When I drilled through the head wall I finished the nuts in the head with some white caps and you can hardly notice them. I drilled a hole in the top of the closet to run the wires. From the head you can fish the wires via the window opening and the toilet paper holder to the fuse location under the dashboard.
I'm too short to be able to kick the screen if laying down in the V-birth, but I didn't think about he neck strain. The "Admiral" doesn't fancy the idea of a TV on-board. She likes this as being "Our GetAway" which is the name of our Monterey.
Thanks for the idea of how to route some wires. I didn't think about going through the toilet paper holder.
How would you route wires from the engine compartment to the port side where the A/C outlet is? I can take the cubby (or what ever it's called) out by removing four screws but getting past the rest of the cabin and under the sink is a different story.
Considering a 2000 262 Cruiser
in General Discussion
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I get water in mine too and I don't have any idea where it's coming from. The anchor locker has two holes in the bow that it drains from. I removed the stern drain plug and the metal that it screws into. I cleaned everything up and resealed it and I still end the day with water in the bilge. It isn't a lot of water but it's till water!