Dan
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Posts posted by Dan
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Hello M.O.S.T.
I have a 2006 250 Cr which has Shore Power 1 and Shore Power 2 outlet connections.
Is it that the circuits under each shore power main must be plugged into a power source to operate. Basically, will I need to have two separate shore power cords to energize all breaker switches on the A/C panel?
Alan
In essence you are correct. My old 250cr and my current 282cr was/is set up the same way. If I remember correctly.....I THINK, I had to have both shore power outlets connected to run the stove....can't quite remember and we never use the stove on our current boat.
As RSUMRTOY2 stated, just purchase a splitter and you'll be all set. Thats what I've done and it works fine.
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If it has not rained, then there are 3 spots to start to look at. The A/C, the galley sink and the head sink drain. I suspect it's your A/C as you stated it's been used alot lately.
Look at the pan under your A/C. That pan collects condensation that drips from the unit. There should be some water in it. Check to see that it is not overflowing as here should be a drain....it might be plugged. If any part of the unit is leaking, it should also be wet in that area under and around the A/C.
If that area is ok, look under you sink's. On my old 250CR, I had a water connection under the head sind that was dripping and leaving my carpet wet. I had to take out the toilet paper dispensor to get to it.
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Dan, I am ready to learn from the master, how did you do your vent lights? Tips, hints, suggestions? I know you got yours foorm ozium...I went with blue, and I think Coastal has the strips in blue. I need to order two DL's for my new Seadoo 150 Speedster this week from Coastal as well. Thanks in advance. I will post when I am done, as the water was very murky this weekend, but the lights looked amazing, I had quite a few people come over to admire them.
Any update? Pictures?????
Interested to see what it looks like
Dan
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There is very little performance difference between the Volvo DP and Merc BIII with similar engines. IF those numbers are correct, your performance would be similar. I doubt very much you will get 47mph at WOT out of the 282CR with 5.0L engines.
When I first got my boat, I was able to get 52 mph on my GPS. 4 years later, all loaded up, I can easily run at 45mph. I rarely do it as I don't like to push it that hard.
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My 282 has got the twin Mercruiser 5.0 Bravo III's. I found the attached chart from a Volvo Penta powered 282 on Boattest.com. Would my Mercruisers number be very comparable?
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It's a little different from mine but it looks like it's the inlet for your heat/AC. Turn your heat on and crank it up...or down for ac and you should feel / hear the pump running. The outlet should be on the starboard side just ahead of the helm. It only runs when it's actually cooling or heating.
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Hi,
Im from Stockholm/ Sweden and I am new here. I bought my 2004 Monterey 282 six month ago and I am very satisfied with her.
Now to my question; I have no idea what the Inlet/outlet (please se picture) on the left is used for (at the left of the "bigger" outlet from the Septitank)?
https://dl-web.dropb....jpg?w=730aa05d
Does any of you guys know what it is used for?
Best regards from a sunny Stockholm
Peter
Peter,
You need to find a different WEB host for your picture or put it as an attachment so that we can see it.
Dan
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Dan, I am ready to learn from the master, how did you do your vent lights? Tips, hints, suggestions? I know you got yours foorm ozium...I went with blue, and I think Coastal has the strips in blue. I need to order two DL's for my new Seadoo 150 Speedster this week from Coastal as well. Thanks in advance. I will post when I am done, as the water was very murky this weekend, but the lights looked amazing, I had quite a few people come over to admire them.
Blue will certainly look good. I did a test last year with blue and here's what mine looked like.
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I wish I would have taken pictures when I did it this past winter (they are worth a thousand words). What you'll need is 4, (it might be 3....I just can't remember and my boat is 1 hr away) 1 foot strips for each side. The blue one's that Chis has will work perfect. Two of them will be joined together to make a 2 foot strip in the middle section.
Take your vents off and CLEAN IT REAL good. You'll want to put the LED strips in between the flat areas that fit up against the boat. You'll see what I mean when you take it apart. The 3m sticky tape that are on the lights works pretty good but for assurance, I used a few dabs of the quick setting 3m 4200 white marine silicone sealant. Just make sure you don't put too much to cover the lights. I also use the sealant on both ends. As a test, if you want, you can scotch tape the lights and wireing in place and re-install a vent and then temp connect to a power source....just to see what it looks like before permanently mounting them.
I then used tape to temp hold the wireing in place (I spliced all the lights together in one spot near the middle and left/added about a 6 foot piece). I used the 4200 sealant in a bunch of spots over the wireing to hold it in place. Once dry, removed the tape.
For the port side, I held the vent close to the boat and I just stuck the wire through one of the round intake vents. I went in and out a couple of times so that if the wire got pulled, it wouldn't stress the connection.
For the starboard side, I fed into the vent, did the wrap around thing and fed down one of the exhaust tubes. In the engine compartment, I took the tube off, grabbed and pulled the rest of the wire and the fit the tube back on. There's probably an easier way to do this.....once you look at it, you'll see what I mean.
The rest is joining the wires together, hooking to a power source and running to a switch........good luck...let us know how you make out.
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One last thing....when your happy with how they look, use that 4200 sealant and run a bead along the top of the vent so that it blocks light bleed through.
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Thanks Dan! The pictures are GREAT! I am installing mine tonight so my boat can finally go in the water on Friday! I will take pictures! You are costing me alot of money! If it were not for your underwater pictures, I would have not done the lights this year. I showed my wife your pictures so she could visualise, and she saw your side vents lite up, now she wants ours done. I will be placing an another order with Coastalnightlights real soon. Chris at Coastal is a big help and prompt! I had my lights next day @ 10:00 a.m. as promised.
Glad your spending money....you can't take it with you. I should have taken pictures of my lighted vent install. It's pretty easy to do. Let me know when your ready I'll give you some pointers. Chis at coastal has the blue strips and they look really cool in the vents. Next time you talk to him, mention my name and that I'm over at THT forum. He'll know who I am. -
So here's where I went throught on the starboard side
Here's what it looks like on the inside for the port side
After I tied everything together in the engine compartment, I ran wires up the radar arch to my switches.
One green switch is for the vent lights, the other for the underwater. The white one is for some LED I put under the seat.
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Here is a better time exposure at night.
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Last thing I did this weekend was silicone around the top of the vents so I wouldn't get bleed through.
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Dan;
I ordered 5 DS lights tonight as per your recomendation. I will put two on each end and one for the middle of the motors. I looked at the DL, I just wanted everything uniform size etc...I chose the white case and blue bulbs. Can't wait! Where did you mount yours, ie; water line just below, and do you have any pictures? Did you screw your lights to the transom, I was thinking of siliconing them on. I am very hesitant to drill. You ran your wire up and drilled through under your swim platform, then did you connect them all together, then run forward for power? Any suggestions would be helpful.
I mounted them about 4 - 5 inches below the waterline. Drilled in a little less than 1/2" put a bunch of 3M marine silicone in and around the holes and also along the ribs of the lights. Then ran the wires up and through a little below the swim platform. Yes, I connected them all together near my power source. I was running some very thin wire from my switch so I hooked the lights up to a relay just to be safe. I'll take some more pictures this weekend and will post.
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Dan,
Looks great! So what units did you end up going with? I went to the site and see different sizes. Did you use regular light strips in the side vents? Also looks like you went from blue to green??
I have a 298 SS so a similar platform and side vents. Thanks for any details you can provide!
I used the double long (DL) on the outside and the double square (DS) on the inside from coastalnightlights.com for the underwater lights. For the vents, I used 4 1ft waterproof flexible strips from oznium.com as coastal could not get me green strip lights. I ran the wires up the radar arch and installed switches on the deck plate covers in the arch. If I ever sell or trade the boat and want to keep the lights, I can easily replace the deck plate covers. I'll take some pics of that this weekend.
I went to green becuase I thought it would look better with my lighted palm tree.
AWESOME!!! What model did you put in, flush, through transom or transom mounted? I have seen quite a few, but your look the best! I would like to do the same on my 282CR.
I used the new GEN III models for the lights stated above. Check the WEB site out, you'll see what I mean. I ran the wires up and went through above the waterline just under the swim platform. On the 282, there is not a whole lot of room in the engine compartment to get to the wires in the back but I used a long set of tongues that I use in my fish tank to pull them forward.
That looks sweeeeeet Dan !! I may add them someday myself. For now I went cheap and just swapped the arch light bulbs out for Blue LED's. They look great, but not as nice as your underwater lights.
Last year I replaced ALL my 12v lights with LED's. I found that at times, in the cockpit, it was just too bright so thi year I added some LED light strips under the aft seat to give that subtle lighting. It works pretty good but I think I'll also add some more in the helm area.
Thanx for the comments guys....
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Decided to change things up a bit this year. Picture is a little blurry. I'll take some better one this coming weekend. What do you guys think?
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Dan, What is the hose from on top of sump box.
It's from the galley and head sink drain.
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Many of the sump boxes are made by Attwood. You can get them direct, and they will even ship you only the parts you need.
The whole box is less than $80 with pump. Might be easier to just replace the whole thing. If mine fails or breaks, that is
what I will do.
One source here.
Even Walmart has them.
Excellent info Rip....THANX. I didn't realize that the box itself was an Attwood. I knew Walmart sold the pumps but not the box. I have an extra pump so I think I'll just contact Attwood and order the cover.
Once again, thank you.
Dan
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MOST, on my 2006 282CR, the tabs on the cover to the forward sump box are broken. Can you tell me who makes these and what the part number is. Attached is a pic of the sump box.
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Check with any Monterey Dealer. I had a 2005 250cr with factory installed TV and can't for the life of me remember where the antenna was.
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Okay! That's what I was getting at... I have the yellow shore power cord that came with boat. But I wanted to get an adapter for that yellow cord so i can plug it into my dock outlet...which is a standard 110v grounded outlet. I won't be running anything other than the charger...nothing. So it sounds like this should work?
Yes it will. Here's what you're looking for.
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Thanks Guys!
So, can I use an adapter on the shore power cord so I can plug it into a standard 120v outlet on my dock?
I see some boats have actual shore power stations. And the cord has a different plug on it, so I figured something may not be compatible?
The do make an adapter that'll fit. I use one to plug my shore power cord into my generator when off the grid however...kind of following up on what rsumrtoy2 stated, you also need to make sure you have the proper wireing at your dock. Depending on what you're trying to run (i.e. stove, a/c, micro etc.) you might have issues. Your dock outlet may not have the proper amperage.
As an FYI, I use that same adapter with my shore power cord in the fall and spring when I bring my 282 home to winterize and get ready for summer. It'll charge the batteries and run the micro OK but I don't dare try the stove.
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Here is a link to the article on the beautiful 328 Super Sport:
That is one SWEET boat. Someone at my marina bought one. Can't wait to see it this spring.
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Hey everyone
It is that time again. Time to get the boat ready for the summer.
Thie year I am wating to replace all my cabin lighting with LED lighting. I have a 1998 332. I was wondering if anyone has done this yet and if you have do you have any suggestions on what to get. I am unsure when it comes to this
Thansk for the help
Rob
I've done it on my 282CR. I pulled all my lights to see what type they were. I then went to superbrightleds.com and purchased replacements. Pretty easy to do, much brighter and a lot more energy efficient.
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I have 4 heavy duty batterries wired 2 per bank (2 selector switch) but was told I could get up 8 hours+ of use for an overnight stay with no dock power but I am not getting more than 2 hours the inverter is from West Marine but I have not changed the factory charger or alternator -262 cruiser 2000 I know anyone answering this will need battery performance and inverter size (I will supply that when I go down to the boat later) I believe I have more than enough power in all catagories -I think it's the wiring method that is causing the problem or the charger -everything does work but not for the time I want 8 hours+
What advice would you have to get me to where I want to be (power is 7.4 mercruiser with Bravo III duo props -like new condition )?
Need more information here. What are you trying to power for 8+ hrs that needs 110v? If your power needs are just 12v items, then with a little bit of conservation, you should easily be able to get 8+ hrs. I know I do.
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All 3 batteries being the same depends on your charger. It should be able to handle different batteries (trolling / starting) of the same type ie AGM / lead-acid etc.. I have 3 Interstate bats in mine, 2 (house) on the same circuit. My house batteries are deep cell and the other battery is a starting type. Been that way since 2008 and all 3 batteries are still very strong. My boat is a 282CR and would suspect that we have the same charger.
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I installed a set on each side of the engine (2 x 6 LEDS). Took about 2 hours to complete - drill the transom and wire it all up (don't forget to use marine glue). I would suggest when you install it that you go via the shut off switch (you don't want to come back and wonder why your battery is dead). Also running the wires to the helm is pretty easy (tons of space at least on my 270CR) for an on/off toggle switch. Couple of suggestions I would gives is look at the ones that have 12 LEDS, so you end up with a total of 24 (if I have to do it again that's what I would go with, more $$ but worth it). Lastly, the fuse size they recommend is way to small... (mine kept blowing until I asked the experts at the dock what might be the cause). Here are a couple of images what it looks like... and honestly these images do not give it justice. It extends about 6-8 feet behind the swim platform, and of course running with it turned on... is unreal! O btw, and it attracts fish like a magnet...
Very nice.....here are some pics of the light I got from CoastalNightLights.com. Right now I've only got 1 light in the middle. This spring I'll put 2 more on the outside.
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2007 Monterey 270 Windlass Problem
in Technical Discussion
Posted · Report reply
Sounds like you just tripped the breaker. Not sure where it is on the 270....it might be near your battery switches. If you have a manual, it'll show you where the switch is, if not you can download the manual from this site.
Good Luck
Dan