Bob
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Posts posted by Bob
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probably the sending unit- easy, inexpensive fix if you can access it easily. usually right at the top of the fuel tank
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I have a 2009 280 SCR and I am considering adding a Mist-er-Comfort misting system under the hardtop. I believe my fresh water system pipe is PEX, but can you tell me if the pipe is 15MM or 1/2" PEX?
Thank You!
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Battery switches do not need to be on for the battery charger to charge them. Check the AC Electrical panel in the cabin and make sure the battery charger switch is on
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Garmin units are by far the most user friendly. Easy to use and if you have an iPad you can create routes on it With the Garmin Blue Chart app and then transfer them to your GPS plotter. The 741 is a good suggestion
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I have a 2009 280 SCR and had the same issue. I discovered the CO detectors have approximately a 5 year life. After 5 years they will begin beeping intermittently & then on a more consistent level. They need to be replaced. They are readily available from iboats.com and Defender Marine.
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I would like to replace the galvanized steel "Delta" style anchor on my 2009 280SCR with a Stainless Steel model. What brand/weight do you recommend? I have an electric windlass.
Thank you!
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I replaced the vinyl boot stripes on my 2009 280 SCR when I purchased it last year. Bought the boot stripes from http://www.vinylstriping.com. I sent them pics of the old (torn) stripes along with measurements and they matched them up to what they had on hand. They were a pleasure to work with and it came out just like the original stripes.
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thanks for you responses. Found my portlights on the Pompanette website. Contacted them and they told me I had to replace the entire portlight. This will be a winter project.
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For MOST: please provide the model number of the Bowmar portlight in the head of my 2009 280 SCR. I need to replace the frosted, smoked lens and hinge on the inside.
Thank you!
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Where can I purchase custom-fitted sheets and blankets for the V-Berth and aft cabin of my 2009 280 SCR?
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Well it's now 2013 and the "SureHold Plastic Surgery" adhesive is still holding up. Best $3 I've ever spent!
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Would you please provide the Manufacturer (Bomar?) and part number for the Porthole replacement screen on a 2005 Montura 248LSC? If you do not have the part number for the screen only, please provide the p/n for the entire unit. The portholde unit shape is elliptical, the inside of the porthole is white and the outside is stainless steel.
Thank you!
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For "MOST"- I have a 2005 248LSC. I need to replace the horns and the gasket below the stainless steel grill. There are 2 horns mounted below: Both are labeled "AM80 FIAMM." One is also labeled "H" (I guess for high pitch) and the other is labeled "L" (for low pitch?). I have attached a pic. Can you suggest a source for me?
thank you!
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Thank you "MOST"- I just noticed a crack in my dash panel. I guess Dino makes this item as well? will you please provide a replacement part number for the dash (pic attached)
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To "MOST"- The burl wood finish of my steering wheel spoke cover on my 2005 248 LSC is beginning to peel and pit. Can you tell me who manufactures this part and/or point me to a supplier who can provide a replacement?
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the grey plastic sleeves protect the arms of the bimini top frame from scratching when you fold the top
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My boat sits on a lift and in preparing for winter, I'm realizing that the standard bow/cockpit cover just won't protect my boat. I'd like to buy a cover that extends down the sides and over the swim platform - does Monterey make this, and if so where can I buy it?
I have a 248 LSC and I bought a winter cover from Fisher Canvas in NJ, (609) 239-2733. they had a template for my boat, ordered over the phone,
and they were a pleasure to deal with. Excellent product- a bit pricey, but worth it. -
I called Bomar and they told me the hatch cover was acrylic and you cannot glue acrylic. You must use a solvent. They insisted that you cannot reattach the plastic housing of the arm to the acrylic cover (the arm assembly is black plastic and the hatch is acrylic) and they tried to sell me a new hatch assembly unit for about $130. After doing some research, I found a $3 tube of "SureHold Plastic Surgery" adhesive that works on both Acrylic and other plastics. You can pick it up at Walgreens. It has now been about 4 weeks since the repair, and all seems to be OK! Hope it lasts.UPDATE- After another 2 months the "Plastic Surgery" product is still holding fine!!!
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I called Bomar and they told me the hatch cover was acrylic and you cannot glue acrylic. You must use a solvent. They insisted that you cannot reattach the plastic housing of the arm to the acrylic cover (the arm assembly is black plastic and the hatch is acrylic) and they tried to sell me a new hatch assembly unit for about $130. After doing some research, I found a $3 tube of "SureHold Plastic Surgery" adhesive that works on both Acrylic and other plastics. You can pick it up at Walgreens. It has now been about 4 weeks since the repair, and all seems to be OK! Hope it lasts.
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To the M.O.S.T.- The riser arm of my Bowmar deck hatch on the bow of my 2005 248 LSC is glued to the inside of the hatch. The arm came unglued, so I "roughed" up the surfaces, re-glued it, and used a pressure-fitted post to hold it in place until the glue dried. I've done this 3 times using different kinds of adhesive each time (Suyper glue, contact cement, PC-11 Marine epoxy). However, after a period of time (a few days to a few weeks) the riser arm comes unglued. Obviously, the hatch cover material requires a special adhesive to hold. Can you tell me what type of glue to use and where to get it?
thank you!
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Is it possible to add a bow thruster to the new 280 SCR (I do not see it listed as an option)?
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Hi Larry,I can't access your utube video.
Thanks for your help. John.
Here's a link to the video that I found on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPoj9swYIoA
I'm thinking of moving up from a 2005 Monterey 248 LSC. I just sea trialed the boat yesterday and Monterey has hit a home run with this one! I'm trying to figure out how they can get this high level of performance from a 29 ft. boat with a 375 HP single engine pushing 8200 lbs. The boat is near perfect with one exception: the head is not fully "standup," with less than 5'10" of headroom. However, the fit and finish, materials, design and ergonomics are all top notch. Now if only the stock market would rebound....
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I bought the fancy West Marine electric oil changer for about $120 last year to change the oil on my 2005 Mercruiser 350MAG MPI BR3 300HP 5.7 Liter engine. I used it once and found that it didn't suck out all of the oil from the oil pan (I know what I'm doing- heated the oil up properly and seated the suction tube as far as possible into the dipstick tube). I returned the unit and bought the Mercruiser part number 802889Q hand pump for $38.95 (here's a link to the Mercruiser website: http://www.mercurypartsexpress.com/us/cran...-pump-p15.html), since I noticed a threaded "hose" fitting right at the top of the dipstick tube. The hand unit did the job much better, more quickly, although requiring a bit of physical energy. If you're changing the oil yourself, you probably don't mind the exercise anyway! I love gadgets, but the simple hand pump is superior.
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My 2005 248LSC happened to come with a Kenwood Stereo KDC-2025 and a Sirius receiver. If you have the same setup, you're in luck. I was able to purchase a Kenwood adapter to connect my Ipod to to the Sirius receiver "slave" port. It was a simple plug-and-play procedure. Now the radio controls the Ipod and it works great!
Alarm Sounding - HELP!
in Technical Discussion
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I had same issue a few years ago when running at slow speed for about 1 hr. as you did. I have a Volvo 8.1 OSI-J engine. Mechanic told me the water intake may have been partially blocked, but the temp. gauge read normal. Next day the Mechanic hooked up a diagnostic computer and got an error code for the Throttle Control. Was running fine at this point, so I held off on the $300 part and it's been running fine ever since.