politby

Greetings I have just sold my 2000 262CR to be replaced with (hopefully) a 2005 322CR. Just yesterday, I discovered that the macerator no longer works properly. I was going to pump out the holding tank (after going to an appropriate location of course) but there is just a trickle coming from the macerator exit vent. The macerator runs - well at least it sounds normal - and the tank is about 3/4 full so there is certainly "stuff" to pump out. The lever that selects between macerator and deck pump out is in the same position it has always been. I have never used the vacuum pump out because I have no such facility nearby. Is the macerator pump shot? Broken impeller? I have never let it run dry. Replacing the macerator is not a task I look forward to. I may just tell the buyer of the boat that it isn't working and give him a discount.

Greetings After 3 great seasons with our '00 262CR we need (okay, I want ) something larger. I have found a 2005 322CR that I am close to making a deal on: It is offered by a private seller. I would much rather buy from a dealer or broker because you can always get at them afterwards if the boat turns out to have hidden faults (my wife is a lawyer). Not so with a private seller. The boat has been imported from the U.S to Sweden so is is a U.S market model. My 262CR has been virtually problem free so I'm not too concerned, but what should I be looking out for when I inspect the boat? The engines are Merc 350 MPIs, seawater cooled, with 670 hours on them. The boat has been run in a lake the past 3 seasons but I will be running it in the Baltic Sea which is brackish. My 262 has a fresh water cooled engine and I have always been leery of sea water cooling. The only fault mentioned by the seller is that the ice maker in the cockpit is inop. I haven't seen the boat in person yet (I will on Monday). I am considering having it surveyed but the general opinion over here is that these surveys are rip offs and won't really tell me anything I can't discover myself. Would appreciate any help from the forum. thanks

I have been having trouble figuring out the trim tabs on my 2000 262CR. Small wonder - after applying some structured thinking to the problem I had my wife watch how the tabs move when the control switches are pressed. Turns out the the port switch controls the starboard tab and the starboard switch controls the port tab. As if that wasn't enough, pressing "up" on the switch actually moves the tab down so the controls have the exact opposite effect on all counts. I would expect pushing the starboard switch up would raise the starboard tab, and so on. Is this the result of intentional design, a mistake when the boat was built, or of a previous owner messing things up?

Greetings My 2000 262CR is equipped with Bennett trim tabs. The control panel has just the 2 rocker up/down switches without any indication of tab position. I would like to replace it with a new one with built in indicators, similar to this one: Is this a simple modification or will it involve a lot of new wiring? Thanks

Greetings, I have the exact same question although my boat is a 2000 262CR. I'm not in the U.S so having carpets sent over here to Sweden is probably not realistic. I'm wondering if it is possible to get copies of the specifications for the cockpit carpets in the 262CR? Ideally drawings but failing that maybe just the dimensions? I will then have a local carpet shop make them. Of course I could always take my own measurements but the original measurements would probable give a more exact result. TIA /politby

Greetings In my efforts to make the foredeck more useful for embarking/disembarking - here in my boating area, an archipelago with 30,000+ islands and skerries, there are lots of interesting places to go and we tend to approach these mostly rocky, steep shores bow first hence the need to get on an off at the bow - I am looking at installing a ladder/boarding platform at the bow: As you can see from the photo of a boat I spotted the other day (different boat, a Chaparral Signature 330), this neatly designed item bolts to the foredeck and to the bow roller, requiring replacement of the latter. This makes it necessary to get to the underside of the foredeck so that the existing bow roller can be removed, and to secure the two other mounting points to the foredeck. There are 2 plastic "lids" on each side of the bow; these appear to be access hatches of some kind. Has anyone with a similar boat to mine used these to get at the innards of the bow? TIA /politby

Mea culpa. Didn't occur to me that I had the wrong type of anchor - the Bruce type, which isn't designed to self launch unless it sits in a pivoting roller... I'm now going to get a Delta or Rocna anchor instead - these should work better.

Okay, I have now installed the windlass (finally) and it works fine in itself but the angle of the bow roller unfortunately became the problem I was concerned about: when the anchor (a standard Bruce type anchor) rests securely on the bow roller, there is no way it will fall down on its own. So when I trigger the windlass's free fall function, the anchor just sits there. The only way I can make the anchor release itself is if let it dangle from the front of the bow roller - definitely not something I'd want to do with the boat moving, apart from defeating the whole purpose of the windlass. And again, replacing the bow roller with a pivoting type appears to be out of the question since there is no way to get at the nuts holding the bow roller from inside the anchor locker. I have absolutely no idea how to solve this. @Tom245: I would appreciate a lot if you could send me some pictures of the way it looks on your boat.

Nah, not done yet. Too much other stuff to take care of during the winter. And the storage facility where I keep the boat is nice and dry but not heated so I haven't felt up to working on the boat in freezing temperatures. I plan to complete it in April. I will post some pictures when I'm done. /politby

Greetings, I realize this is a very long shot but is there a way to get hold of a new instrument panel for a 2000 262 Cruiser? Maybe someone has one lying around. The previous owner did a very nice modification to integrate a chartplotter display which I am now replacing with a more modern model. Rather than modifying the modded panel I thought I'd replace it entirely since the lettering is a bit worn. thanks /politby

I wasn't planning to just leave it with just the hinges and latch. My plan was to cut the hatch in two sections and have the one where the windlass was sitting mounted permanently with some strong bolts, while leaving the other one for opening in case of snags, etc. Anyway I've now discovered that my newly purchased South Pacific 800F windlass will fit on the shelf, so I'm going to mount it there. I may need to make a 1/2 inch deep cutout on the underside of the hatch because this windlass is a little higher than the one the shelf space was designed for. The remaining concern I have is that the rode will be following a slight upward angle towards the bow roller. The (factory original) bow roller on my 262 is not of the pivoting type so I'm worried the anchor may not launch by itself when I hit the free fall button. Switching to a pivoting roller will ber very difficult since it's impossible to reach the bolts from inside the anchor locker - the roller must have been mounted before the deck was joined to the hull. How does this work on your 245 - do you have a pivoting bow roller? How do you ensure the anchor launches properly? thanks /politby

Does the rubber flap look anything like this? This is on my 2000 262CR. It's not blocking the drain hole, at least not completely since the water does drain, but I've been wondering why it is there. /politby

Okay, my boat is on dry land now and indoors and I'm starting to work on the windlass install. I have decided to install a horizontal windlass, in order to get one with freefall function. I will mount the windlass on the anchor locker hatch. On my 262, there is a "shelf" that blocks off the deeper (aft) section of the anchor locker: In order to have the windlass feed the rode down into the deepest part of the locker, I'm going to have to either: 1. Make a large hole in the “shelf” for the rode to pass through, or 2. Remove the entire shelf, or at least the horizontal part of it. This would have the added benefit of creating more room for the rode. I’m wondering what coould be the purpose of that “shelf”, as it reduces the usable size of the locker considerably as well as making it a lot harder to get the rode into the deepest part of the space. Is it likely affect the structural stability of the foredeck if I remove all or part of it? Any ideas? Thanks

Well, here's my 2000 262CR, I've had it about a month now: I'm the third owner of this boat, by some incredible stroke of luck the 2 previous owners have both been taking care of it extremely well so there's hardly a scratch on it, the interior is pristine and so is the engine (fresh water cooled Volvo Penta 5.7). Our boating is done on the Baltic Sea, in the archipelago outside of Stockholm, Sweden. With its 30,000+ islands (and countless little skerries and rocks) it's a great area for boating. If only the boating season was a little longer - April through September is realistically all we get. This Google Maps link shows my area, scroll around a bit to see what the archipelago looks like. My marina is in the exact center of the picture. Visit My Boating Area /politby

I found the wires in the anchor locker but I have difficulties locating them in the engine room. Do they only go as far as the dash? thanks

Greetings, I'm planning to install an anchor windlass in the bow of my 2000 262 CR. Has anyone done this? Is there sufficient room in the forward anchor locker for the below deck parts plus enough fall for the rode? Or is there anyone who has a 262 with a windlass who can give me some tips on the best way to do this? thanks