Alan
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Posts posted by Alan
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I hope someone can help! I have a 298SC and there is no electrical power at the Windlass/Anchor. The boat has a reset button by the battery switches and I have power too and from that button. Could there be some sort of relay between that reset button and the Windlass? This is a great boat and it would be even better if I can get to the bottom of this problem. Any help would be appreciated.
glaplant
Do you have more than one set of control switch(s) for the windlass? It is possible your circuit has fuses along the circuit path which may have burned. Isolate (if you can) where the power ends and you will have narrowed down the problem area. My 250 Cr has one control at the helm with in line fuse holders in the anchor locker just before the windlass.
Good luck.
Alan
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Hi Alan,
When your Cruiser is equipped with factory installed air conditioning you will have 2 shore power outlets and the boat is shipped with 2 shore power cords.
Before you purchase another shore power cord or splitter, check the dockside power source...If your dockside outlet is 50 amp service, 2 seperate cords are best. If dockside is 30 amp service, you can use a splitter.
When using a splitter, keep in mind that you will not be able to use all appliances/accessories at the same time. For example, you want to turn on the air conditioning first and let it run for a while, then turn on the regfrigerator and wait a while before using anything else.
By using 2 seperate shore cords you will get better power results- especially when running the air conditioner.
Thank you,
Alan
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Hi Alan
My 282 does not have an on board generator. I too have the Honda 2000. Where we are, the 1,000 Islands in Canada, there are alot of spots you can't run your on board if you are at one of the Island National parks. There are noise complaints and health issues concerns abot CO2. We run our Honda generator up on the island away from people and run a long extension cord to the boat. Like I stated I have one power connection, and it energizes everything.
1,000 Island's sounds intriguing, and I understand restrictions to ensure all aspects, human and ecology are being protected. In Florida, there are many places to boat however, few places which have such restrictions and which lack the scenery associated with Canada's 1,000 Island's. Here it's every man for him or her self, meaning; if your neighbor's exhaust is detected you probably would be better to just move. Regarding your Honda, have you heard of the ground issue or "Floating Ground" with the Honda and if so what if any have you done regarding this condition. I am still gaining more info on this so bare with me, I am learning as I go and hopefully not the hard way.
I appreciate your comments and most importantly you sharing your knowledge (experiences) good and bad boating with alternative power source.
Alan
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In essence you are correct. My old 250cr and my current 282cr was/is set up the same way. If I remember correctly.....I THINK, I had to have both shore power outlets connected to run the stove....can't quite remember and we never use the stove on our current boat.
As RSUMRTOY2 stated, just purchase a splitter and you'll be all set. Thats what I've done and it works fine.
Hi Dan
Do you have an on board generator in your 282CR or use a portable? And in using the splitter depending upon which power source, do you have to manage power use (wattage load) with the splitter?
Alan
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On my 282CR I have a main power coming in, a TV outlet/hook up and a phone outlet/hook up all coming into the boat, I only have one for shore power though. I have not heard of this configuration that you are describing on a smaller boat. You can get from West Marine a "splitter" cord, where it has the two ends that come together to connect to one shore power cord. My buddy has this set up on his Four Winns 378 and I believe it is 50 amp.
RSUMRTOY2
I have TV/Phone outlet, Shore Power 1 and 2 outlet(s).
Reason of my original question to M.O.S.T., I spent a week end on the boat, and for the first time used a Honda EU2000 generator to gain power while on hook. I plugged into Shore Power 2 which runs A/C, refrige, Microwave and outlet(s). I now understand why the whole time I thought I was charging the batteries when in fact was not. Shore Power 1 runs Cook Top (which we did not use), Water Heater (used however not through A/C power) and Battery charger (which I wished I was using). The experience was enjoyable despite my incorrect assumption of having a battery charger energized and operating and despite having ran down both batteries. I have seen the 50 amp splitter cord you are referring to and believe I will need to make a decision to buy one or simply buy another shore power cord. I read a blog where I thought it stated connecting into any of the shore power outlets would energize the battery charger, it appears I was wrong "again". By the way, your 282CR, do you have an on board generator? I have been looking at on board versus portable generator and Westerbeke has a 3.0 and Next Gen a 3.5, which seems as compact as they get yet not in price. The 250 CR is vary limited to space in the engine compartment and the blogs regarding portables are endless pros and cons. Although the Honda did fit perfectly in the aft locker and worked well tied off on the swim platform. I remain cautious regarding the cons despite installing two additional CO detectors before use of the portable.
I would still like to here from M.O.S.T., however enjoyed your comments.
Thank you for your input and happy boating,
Alan
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Hello M.O.S.T.
I have a 2006 250 Cr which has Shore Power 1 and Shore Power 2 outlet connections.
Is it that the circuits under each shore power main must be plugged into a power source to operate. Basically, will I need to have two separate shore power cords to energize all breaker switches on the A/C panel?
Alan
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I don't have a 250 so can't comment specifically
In my 330 there is breaker at the main electrical panel AND a separate switch to actually operate the macerator which is located inside the head adjacent to the holding tank monitor. So just because you operated the breaker, it doesn't necessarily mean yr pump was running.
Simple way is try it again - this time with your seacock open and Y valve switched over (if fitted?). If it starts to empty your holding tank, then no problems. If it doesn't, well..... macerator pumps aren't that expensive.
You should only do this where it is legal to dump
Hello Ian:
I guess my question would be, you only want to turn on the macerator breaker when you need to pump out legally? In saying this it would appear I have done nothing wrong to the equipment and when it is time to pump out legally, is when I need to see if the pump actually pumps to the location depending upon the "Y" valve selection. Also, the pump did run, I heard it and realized what it was. Hey Ian, is it your understanding of how the black water system works is, black water from the head pumps to the macerator tank and then into the holding tank or into the holding tank and to the macerator tank?
I appreciate your time responding to my blogs.
Thank you and happy boating,
Alan
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In haste this weekend to get under way and not paying attention, when turning on main DC breaker and all the DC breakers which included the head system I also turned on the macerator breaker. Given I have an AccuFlush systen, closed fresh water supplied with holding tank approximately 1/4 full at the time, what did I do if any damage and what should I do if any thing, as a result of my erro?
I have a 2006 250 CR and the macerator ran for about 1 minute until I realised what I had done.
Positive comments appreciated.
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Hatchman:
From experience pre- wire and / or pre- installation of the windlass is a vital item on a cruiser boat and worth the money to have someone else to do it.
With that being said, I have two seperat bilge pumps forward bilge and aft bilge both on auto float switch with helm over ride manual switch for both. I have just installed a Water Witch 10-12 with BP500 High water bilge alarm system and will add a back up aft bilge pump connected to the Water Witch alarm.
The previous owner did not have a windlass, High Water Alarm system and I wanted these prior to going out. I also installed Bennetts EIC5000 Trim Tab indicaor switch and I am ready to try them all out this coming week end.
I appreciate your comments and hope to have happy stories to share soon.
Alan
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Hatchman:
I have taken Ian's, RSUMRTOY2 and your comments with eyes wide open.
In reading the Owner's manual it implies opening the engine compartment, running the the bilge blowers for at least 4 minutes prior to starting
engine(s), this prompted me to write my comment regarding a belt guard. Understanding, protecting one component may create other problems, reasoning this over and giving credit to Mercruiser / Monterey in thinking thought all safety items, I have rested in the thought to simply limit those times needed to have the engine hatch up with the engine running and be causous during recomended start up proceedures as printed in the manual.
I rest this dead horse.
Happy boating to all and fly your colors with pride, mine are: "Red, White and Blue".
Alan
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M.O.S.T.
Windlass
I appreciate your reply, my boat was not pre-wired and I have completed the new windlass and wiring installation. Would like to know the best method for power termination.
*Would it be recommended to connect direct to the battery or to Quest Main Switch? Depending upon answer, to what battery or to what Battery switch terminal.
Bennett Trim Tab EIC5000
Also completed installation of Bennett EIC5000, the system works beautifully. I currently have the power module connected direct to a Battery, I would like for it to be powered when the key switch is turned on. I have the Auto retract connected to the switch along with the power to accessory (as per instructions) would like for the EIC5000 system to be powered through the ignition switch same as the original.
*Can this be accomplished and if so how.
Bilge High Water Alarm
Installed a Water Witch 10-12 sensor with BP500 Alarm. It works great, would like to know best termination for the power.
*Direct to Battery or through the Quest Battery Switch. Boat currently on trailer and possibly kept in dry storage.
Thank you,
Alan
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M.O.S.T.
Thank you.
Alan :-)
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On my 06 250 Cr, Quest Battery Switch, above the Main breaker and Windlass breaker is the following: "WARNING" When parallel switch is "ON" all batteries discharge at the same rate. After starting engines, return switch to the "OFF" position." Reading section 4 and section 7 of the Owner's manual I do not find mention of this "WARNING" nor find notice of its intent. I would like to know the proper sequence once engines have started, whether or not to turn the battery switch to off or leave said switch on.
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Alan,
Bespoke = custom built or tailor made to suit individual requirements.
With all the attention being paid to occupational health and safety issues in the workplace, I'm sure it is a major concern on commercial vessels which will filter down to the recreactional market, eventually
Depending on the design and space contsraints in your bilge I would be concerned about upsetting airflows using any sort of "solid" materials. Be careful that you don't restrict or impede the function / effectiveness of your bilge blowers. I think a woven mesh type product would be a better solution.
Good luck
Ian:
Thank you for your reply and your clarification of "custom built". I will make note of your worthy mention of design consideration of a belt guard so not to interfere with the engine / bilge compartment blowers relative to air flow.
Best regards.
Alan
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To MOST:
On a 2006 250 CR, what size wire would the factory have installed for a standard windlass pre-wire (on this particular boat) and what pathway would have been taken. Also, would the pre-wire have ran from engine compartment to helm to anchor locker and back or simply from helm to anchor locker tied up out of the way somewhere?
Would greatly appreciate your assistance.
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Hi Alan
I've never seen anything from Merc.
I guess they'd claim the variety of installations would make it impractical for them to design a factory option
So I suppose bespoke is the way to go
You could try your local shipwright or if you can design something yourself, a sheet metal worker (probably a lot cheaper)
Good luck
lan
I have come to conclusion this topic must not be a concerning issue out there. If "bespoke" means the same as "take causion", I'm with you my friend. I may look into a clear poly carbonite design just so I am not the first to experience a bad event with a turning belt on a boat. You see, if it can occur, I tend to find it.
Take care and I appreciate your time to my inquirey.
Alan:)
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Hello to all:
Recently purchased a 2006 250 CR, looking to up date a few items on the vessel. First, Bennett trim tabs work fine however, will up date with Bennett EIC5000 three in one indicator system. I have a blog under General Discussion regarding access from Helm to engine compartment(challenging). Next to install a Lewmar V700G windlass. The boat has never had one and to my surprise there is no pre-wire. Has any one found a promising route for the wiring? I would be appreciative for any ones experience and assistance. The last item will be a high water indicator at helm, with secondary bilge pump system to activate if primary fails. Other than this, I have great anticipation to filling up at the pump and experiencing a different boating life.
Help appreciated.
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Hello to all:
Up grading my 06 250 CR with Bennett EIC5000 indicator, toggle switch with auto retract at shut down. Thought the rough part was over installing the new actuators on the stern, however learned quickly I need assistance on finding the best path from the engine compartment to the helm. Looked at taking the drink holders / speaker / light box off under the shift/ throttle control to fish a snake through at mi9d point, however found this to be next to impossible without damaging the drink holders. Any ideas or other experiences with access in there 250 CR to fish a new control cable from the engine compartment to the helm?
My next project is installing a windlass with no pre-wire, this may prove even more of a problem.
Any ideas and / or assistance would be greatly appreciated.
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Hello to all:
Newbie here, and recently purchased a beautiful 06' 250 Cr w/ 350 MAG. First thought when opening up the engine compartment, would not want to have a mishap when the belt was turning. Question, has any one seen or herd of a belt guard for this application?
Alan
Question for Most
in Technical Discussion
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Hello GetAway:
As stated in my previous blog with RSUMORTOY2, I am new to this situation and learning myself about it. Basically, on many portable generators the unit is purposely not grounded to its chassis for engineering and safety reasons and is called Floating Ground. There are those who change this by connecting the neutral to the ground on the generator receptacles outlets and others who leave this condition alone. The floating ground while in use could be observed at the boat electrical panel by watching the reverse polarity indicator lights intermittently blinking. The boat user manual states this is not a good condition. I do not want to misstate and / or misrepresent something so I suggest you goggle search all you can on this and hope you can find a happy medium regarding safety. I used a EU2000 for a week end on hook, running A/C, receptacles and more without incident and I believe the Honda EU2000 (in good operating condition) is a favorable solution (if used and observed responsibly) when boating. Please note, I did not go in the water at all while the genset was running and I attempted to be sensitive to others concern regarding this use. I have spoken with a lightning protection specialist and he explained one solution is to ground the unit to a substantial metal based item on the boat. In doing so may limit a possible shock hazard but will not eliminate electrolysis and / or corrosion from electrolysis when the portable genset is in use. Other than an on board factory wired genset, when considering portable genset use, their should be serious consideration given with safety in mind when using a portable genset while boating. If you find something to add, please share it and I will do the same if I find something more on this.
Stay safe and happy boating.
Alan