Volvo Penta DP Props

[JRSto 0]

I have a 2004 Monterey 302 with stock Volvo Penta DP outdrives. I keep the boat moored in salt water and have been keeping the bottom and drive units painted and a coating called "Prop Speed" on the props.

Here's my challange..when the props were removed this last week for recoating they were found to have extensive apparent galvanic corrosion inside the hub beyond repair. Is this "normal"? Will the "Volvo QL Active Corrosion Protection System" PN # 41101900 eliminate the problem?

Help, Please, $760 for each props gets old quick.

[The MOST 0]

Hello JRSto,

 

To answer your questions with the most current "QL" accessories information you need to contact Volvo Penta direct at 757-436-5100.

 

Keep in mind that corrosion from galvanic current can come from several sources. Your neighbors boat, the shore power hook up, appliances out on the dock, condition of the pilings, improper bottom painting, etc. The type of water, very high salinity, pollution and mineral content can all add to the fierce powers of corrosion.

 

Make sure you have annodes made from the materials that are correct for your boating waters (double check with Volvo when you talk to them). Keep them below the waterline when the boat is at the dock. Do not leave the boat hooked up to shore power unless absolutely necessary. If the dockside receptacles/hook ups are in disrepair let your marina know about it.

 

Talk to your boating neighbors and advise them on how to help reduce galvanic current.

 

 

[box-of-rain 0]

So is it better to not hook up to shore power? this is good to know, I had no idea...

[The MOST 0]

Being hooked up to shore power is fine.

It is when you leave the boat, don't feel like unplugging the shore power cord, winding it up and stowing it.

 

Disconnect everything, it decreases the amount of stray current.

[JRSto 0]

I have a 2004 Monterey 302 with stock Volvo Penta DP outdrives. I keep the boat moored in salt water and have been keeping the bottom and drive units painted and a coating called "Prop Speed" on the props.

Here's my challange..when the props were removed this last week for recoating they were found to have extensive apparent galvanic corrosion inside the hub beyond repair. Is this "normal"? Will the "Volvo QL Active Corrosion Protection System" PN # 41101900 eliminate the problem?

Help, Please, $760 for each props gets old quick.

here's what I have found...

the props most certainly have undergone some extensive galvanic corrosion and installing Volvo QL system in addition to the system Monterey installs, may OVER protect the lower units which will create other problems. I need to determine where the stray current is comming from and treat it accordingly. An excellent article can be found at...

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/MarineCorrosion.htm

An excerpt..

"Corrosion Protection Testing and Troubleshooting

For diagnostic tests, a simple digital volt/ohm meter (multimeter) is necessary. An analog version may be used, but it must be a high-impedance model. Even the most inexpensive digital volt/ohm meter has high impedance.

One of the most helpful methods for determining if corrosion below the waterline is occurring is through the measurement of the hull potential. This is done by immersing a reference electrode, usually silver/silver chloride (a silver wire with a coating of silver chloride) into the water about six inches behind the drive. This electrode is connected to the positive terminal of a digital volt/ohm meter. The negative lead from the meter is attached to the battery ground. With the meter on a two-volt DC scale, the hull potential is displayed. When performing tests, be sure to make sure your battery is fully charged. Also, new boats will usually produce higher readings than normal. This is because the drive unit is being protected by a new finish and new sacrifical anodes. To obtain an accurate diagnosis, the test should be performed after the boat has been used at least one or two weeks. All boats should be moored for at least eight hours before performing the test. This is necessary in order to allow the cathode system and sacrificial anodes to polarize the water molecules in direct contact with the drive. Be careful not to rock the boat excessively while boarding to perform the test, as this will alter the reading."

[skipper h 0]

I have a 2004 Monterey 302 with stock Volvo Penta DP outdrives. I keep the boat moored in salt water and have been keeping the bottom and drive units painted and a coating called "Prop Speed" on the props.

Here's my challange..when the props were removed this last week for recoating they were found to have extensive apparent galvanic corrosion inside the hub beyond repair. Is this "normal"? Will the "Volvo QL Active Corrosion Protection System" PN # 41101900 eliminate the problem?

Help, Please, $760 for each props gets old quick.

 

 

When I had my boat serviced at 100 hours, the rubber in the hub tore when they removed the prop. They told me that the prop was unservicable and I would have to buy a new prop at $750. Well they were wrong! I took the prop to Wilmington Prop Service in Wilmington Ca. And they removed the hub and installed a new one for $125.00. If the prop was corroded then it would have to be replaced but mine being stainless steel was O.K. It was just the hub that was corroded, and replaced with no problem.