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politby

262 Cruiser - windlass install?

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Greetings,

 

I'm planning to install an anchor windlass in the bow of my 2000 262 CR. Has anyone done this? Is there sufficient room in the forward anchor locker for the below deck parts plus enough fall for the rode?

 

Or is there anyone who has a 262 with a windlass who can give me some tips on the best way to do this?

 

thanks

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I installed one a few years back on my 262CR. There is not a lot of room in the anchor locker for the fall, and I had to limit the length of my rode. You sometimes have to pause and reach in and push the line around if it piles up too high (it hangs up in a bump in the locker). I strongly recommend adding foot switches or as I did a hand controller at the bow. Install the windlass as far back in the anchor access area as possible. Its finicky to use, but it beats hauling up the hook by hand! Send me your email and I will send you pics and more info.

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Greetings,

 

I'm planning to install an anchor windlass in the bow of my 2000 262 CR. Has anyone done this? Is there sufficient room in the forward anchor locker for the below deck parts plus enough fall for the rode?

 

Or is there anyone who has a 262 with a windlass who can give me some tips on the best way to do this?

 

thanks

I installed a Lewmar 700 a few years back. Plenty of room for the install. I have 150' rode with 25' of chain. I gained access to the anchor locker through the mirror by fabricating a hinge set up. The boat is pre-wired for the windlass; the cable runs along the hull to deck seam on the starboard side to to dash.

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I installed a Lewmar 700 a few years back. Plenty of room for the install. I have 150' rode with 25' of chain. I gained access to the anchor locker through the mirror by fabricating a hinge set up. The boat is pre-wired for the windlass; the cable runs along the hull to deck seam on the starboard side to to dash.

 

I found the wires in the anchor locker but I have difficulties locating them in the engine room. Do they only go as far as the dash?

 

thanks

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I found the wires in the anchor locker but I have difficulties locating them in the engine room. Do they only go as far as the dash?

 

thanks

 

Okay, my boat is on dry land now and indoors and I'm starting to work on the windlass install.

I have decided to install a horizontal windlass, in order to get one with freefall function. I will mount the windlass on the anchor locker hatch.

 

On my 262, there is a "shelf" that blocks off the deeper (aft) section of the anchor locker:

 

img_0016.jpg

 

 

 

In order to have the windlass feed the rode down into the deepest part of the locker, I'm going to have to either:

 

 

1. Make a large hole in the “shelf” for the rode to pass through, or

 

2. Remove the entire shelf, or at least the horizontal part of it. This would have the added benefit of creating more room for the rode.

 

 

I’m wondering what coould be the purpose of that “shelf”, as it reduces the usable size of the locker considerably as well as making it a lot harder to get the rode into the deepest part of the space. Is it likely affect the structural stability of the foredeck if I remove all or part of it?

 

 

Any ideas?

 

 

Thanks

 

 

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The shelf is the mounting spot for the windlass. I don't think removing any of it would be a good idea. If you mount the windlass just to the hatch cover, it will wind up at the bottom along with the anchor! Two hinges and the latch will not do the job. The Simpson mounted on the shelf on my 245 works perfectly. I like the fact that it is not sitting on top where it can be tripped over. Tom

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The shelf is the mounting spot for the windlass. I don't think removing any of it would be a good idea. If you mount the windlass just to the hatch cover, it will wind up at the bottom along with the anchor! Two hinges and the latch will not do the job. The Simpson mounted on the shelf on my 245 works perfectly. I like the fact that it is not sitting on top where it can be tripped over. Tom

 

I wasn't planning to just leave it with just the hinges and latch. :) My plan was to cut the hatch in two sections and have the one where the windlass was sitting mounted permanently with some strong bolts, while leaving the other one for opening in case of snags, etc.

 

Anyway I've now discovered that my newly purchased South Pacific 800F windlass will fit on the shelf, so I'm going to mount it there. I may need to make a 1/2 inch deep cutout on the underside of the hatch because this windlass is a little higher than the one the shelf space was designed for.

 

The remaining concern I have is that the rode will be following a slight upward angle towards the bow roller. The (factory original) bow roller on my 262 is not of the pivoting type so I'm worried the anchor may not launch by itself when I hit the free fall button. Switching to a pivoting roller will ber very difficult since it's impossible to reach the bolts from inside the anchor locker - the roller must have been mounted before the deck was joined to the hull.

 

How does this work on your 245 - do you have a pivoting bow roller? How do you ensure the anchor launches properly?

 

thanks

/politby

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I see what you mean about the slight uphill journey of the rode. Mine is exactly the same. Mine works perfectly,I guess the weight of the tackle does all the work. I can send you pictures of mine if you like, send me an e-mail and I can forward them to you. I had mine installed when I ordered the boat, so I have no idea about the wiring issues. Good luck, Tom

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I had no problems with the 700 I installed. The line works well with the factory installed roller. I have 200' of rode with 25' of chain and it is a tight fit in the locker. Often I need to guide it into the locker. The factory installed cable ends at the helm but it is easy to snake the cable back to the engine compartment.

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I had no problems with the 700 I installed. The line works well with the factory installed roller. I have 200' of rode with 25' of chain and it is a tight fit in the locker. Often I need to guide it into the locker. The factory installed cable ends at the helm but it is easy to snake the cable back to the engine compartment.

 

 

Okay, I have now installed the windlass (finally) and it works fine in itself but the angle of the bow roller unfortunately became the problem I was concerned about: when the anchor (a standard Bruce type anchor) rests securely on the bow roller, there is no way it will fall down on its own.

 

 

So when I trigger the windlass's free fall function, the anchor just sits there. The only way I can make the anchor release itself is if let it dangle from the front of the bow roller - definitely not something I'd want to do with the boat moving, apart from defeating the whole purpose of the windlass. :(

 

 

 

And again, replacing the bow roller with a pivoting type appears to be out of the question since there is no way to get at the nuts holding the bow roller from inside the anchor locker.

 

I have absolutely no idea how to solve this.

 

 

 

 

@Tom245: I would appreciate a lot if you could send me some pictures of the way it looks on your boat.

 

 

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Okay, I have now installed the windlass (finally) and it works fine in itself but the angle of the bow roller unfortunately became the problem I was concerned about: when the anchor (a standard Bruce type anchor) rests securely on the bow roller, there is no way it will fall down on its own.

 

 

So when I trigger the windlass's free fall function, the anchor just sits there. The only way I can make the anchor release itself is if let it dangle from the front of the bow roller - definitely not something I'd want to do with the boat moving, apart from defeating the whole purpose of the windlass. :(

 

 

 

And again, replacing the bow roller with a pivoting type appears to be out of the question since there is no way to get at the nuts holding the bow roller from inside the anchor locker.

 

I have absolutely no idea how to solve this.

 

 

 

 

@Tom245: I would appreciate a lot if you could send me some pictures of the way it looks on your boat.

 

Mea culpa.

 

Didn't occur to me that I had the wrong type of anchor - the Bruce type, which isn't designed to self launch unless it sits in a pivoting roller...

 

I'm now going to get a Delta or Rocna anchor instead - these should work better.

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