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My Monterey


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About Heinrich

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Denver, NC (Lake Norman)
  • Interests
    Boating, sailing, flying, diving, enjoying my one awesome life!

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  1. Hi all, I have a Mercruiser 350 MAG MPI Due Bravo 3 prop on the boat. Putting her into forward is not an issue, however putting into a reverse is an issue. It seems that it goes into reverse; however only when you “accelerate” does it seem to “pop” into gear (with of course a major bump sound). My suspicion is that it has to do with the lower shift cable(s) not being properly aligned/set. Has anyone experienced this before? I’ve looked for YouTube video’s, however it seems only to cover Bravo 1 drives. Any ideas or perhaps where to find the manual on setting these cables? Regards, Heinrich
  2. Folks, I came across an interesting boat forum page that has some great ideas about solving this issue (it especially mentions squeezing hoses to get the trapped air out). Apparently it is a known problem on this specific Kohler model. Would be great to know exactly which hose to squeeze (or some pic/diagram would be useful)... http://my.boatus.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=65798
  3. It's located on the stern (at the lowest point, about 1 inch up). Usually made from copper. Now, if you live in Florida, this is likely all you need to do, however if you are up north... you may want to start to research how to winterize the engine and/or any water tanks (or 1st time I suggest you get someone to show you how easy it is, so that you can do it yourself next time). Taking out the bilge plug is just to drain any water in the bilge (this does not winterize the boat).
  4. I have considered doing a project like this a few times on our boat (but likely not worth the cost)… or adding some sort of ‘step down’ transom (maybe extension on the existing platform that’s closer to the waterline?). Has anyone attempted this on a 270CR? Please keep us posted on how it turns out.
  5. Yes, as soon as I thought it’s all solved the genset overheated again after running a few minutes. Well, I decided that before I go talk to it with a hammer let’s give it one more try… So, this time I took the advice of folks on the forum and removed all the hoses and double (no, make that triple) checked that each was clean. Still the same issue occurred after I put it all back again (something like 2 hours later)… I then spent a good few days googling and reading almost every conceivable site that had anything to say about gensets… and on some site a person mentioned air bubble… So, I though ummm… now here’s a new idea… Anyway, turns out that the antifreeze (50% ethylene glycol) chambers (sorry no idea what that is technically referred to…) had an air bubble in it. To get rid of the air bubble, you need to remove a little screw (located on the top, opposite side of the coolant cap (see the image). This will bleed any air out of it (btw, you need to remove the coolant cap and fill it up while doing this). Lastly, turns out the manual also mentions this process, but does not say anything about this little screw that needs to be removed. So, at least now I know that a) the lake water cools off the anti-freeze, and the antifreeze then cools off the engine… Btw, that genset now purrs happily until it is turned off by me… Fixed 1 problem… waiting for the next 1 to pop up… tick tock, tick tock… Hopefully this is the end of my genset saga… Happy boating folks!
  6. I found that Mr Clean Magic Eraser works really well. http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Clean-Eraser-Cleaning-8-Count/dp/B001339ZMW
  7. Well folks, I ended up ordering a 24" x 24" - Transparent Grey "Smoked" Polycarbonate Lexan - 1/4" thick sheet from eStreetPlastics.com (including shipping it cost $55.01). They also do offer cutting it in a circle; however that almost doubles the cost. After talking to several folks I decided to just cut it myself, using a jigsaw (with a very fine metal blade) - I was able to cut it without any issues (I used the original broken piece as the template – turns out it’s actually 20 inches diameter). Once cut, I used a small file (I think it costs around $8 from Lowes), and smoothed the edges (in case someone steps on it and cuts their feet). I then used Silicone Kitchen and Bathroom caulk (almost 2 – 2.8 FL OZ) to set the Lexan in place (cost 2 x $3.98 from Lowes.com). Once it all dried (I left the silicon 3 days to dry), I then used IPS Weldon #16 Acrylic Cement 5 Oz (including shipping, it cost $11.36 from Amazon) to attach the 3 hatch levers (it attaches onto the Lexan to close and make the hatch opening water tight). Doing this last part takes a bit of patience! I initially made the mistake to use J-B Weld Epoxy Glue, this cured well onto the handles, but after just 1 try dropped off the Lexan sheet (lesson learnt). All in all (excluding the wait times on getting things to dry), it likely is about an hour’s work.
  8. Hi all, Let’s just say someone stepped on the round hatch (sounds so much better when it’s open ended right?) and its now cracked. After seeing the prices folks want for a replacement one e.g. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=11151&productId=26978&langId=-1 ( +- $500) (btw, I realized these hatches sold does not include a boat (sarcasm!)… So, I better do a DYI job.) I found some reasonably priced grey smoked Acrylic Plexiglas www.estreetplastics.com/Grey_Smoke_Plexiglass_2064_s/80.htm. However, all the items I find come in sheets (not cut in circles). The diameter needs to be 19 and 7/8 inch (and I’m thinking to use 3/8 inch thickness). I was wondering how easy it is to cut. Has anyone attempted doing this? Also, would 3/8 inch be a good thinkness, maybe 1/2 inch? Lastly, has anyone found a web site that sells these sheets cut in circles? (Or does anyone know where you can find the original Bomar Plexisheets replacements (the typical opaque white sheets)? I also considered Polycarbonate (i.e. Lexan), however it seems to be way more expensive, but not as durable (apparently susceptible to scratches). Has anyone done these types of replacements? Kind regards, Heinrich
  9. So, with the first blink of sunshine today I went to investigate again (as everyone has pointed out, it must be a blocked water line)… so, I decided to take off all the lines and make sure it’s open…. The first pipe I took off (and after blowing thru it), a piece of rubber (likely from an old broken impeller came out). So, I believe I found the culprit. Whoohoo! In a few weeks we’ll put her in on the lake and I’ll be able to confirm. Anyway, learnt a few things thru this… a) I’ll never become a boat mechanic and Don’t just check the outlet where the impeller is – check all the water lines that water is actually flowing out strongly. Yep, maybe I should have tried the easiest thing first… Folks, again thank you! It’s folks like you that make this a forum with not just a bunch of information, but knowledge!
  10. Folks, quick update (sorry for the delay!)... I had to winterize the boat (yes, it was a sad day)... So, I will only be able to check in a few months. Here is what I have done as well: I have taken out the mechanical temperature switch, and it made no difference (still overheats). I do now know that if you place the switch in a boiling pot of water that it opens up. I am also starting to think it must be a blockage (likely broken impeller piece or something??? It must have been their from a while back, since the one that is in the genset has no broken pieces...)... I will try the suggestion of connecting the short shore water line and running that thru the lines (I have a good feeling about that suggestion). Thanks! Anyway, I will check again (and report back) as soon as I can take her out of storage (where she is snug as a bug at the moment). Again, thank you for all the responses/suggestions I received!
  11. Hi all, With limited space on my 2007 Monterey CR 270, doing some digging around the genset to do some analysis myself was no small feat (I bet midgets could make a bundle doing this kind of stuff...). Needless to say having someone work on it... apparently means taking the whole thing out... (and it will likely cost an arm and a leg and probably a kidney). The Genset was clearly not installed to be worked on later... I was hoping to get some advice (before giving up a kidney). My genset is clearly over heating (extremely hot to the touch) and cutting out after a few minutes of running perfectly (or at least the way it should sound). So, that's probably a good thing... before it goes up in smoke. So here's what I have been able to check so far: - I have checked the impeller and its perfect (even checked that it pumps water out by the outlet (just to the left of the impeller by the outlet). Also, there is the little upside 'U' (I think it’s called a siphon break... well, if you open it... water comes out... (and yes, it is way above the water line... so clearly it comes from the pressure of the impeller pumping water thru the lines - somehow). Hard to follow the water pipes (due to limited space and visibility). - Also, I have taken out the mechanical high water temperature switch (I put into a pot, cooked it and when it reached +- 180F it seems to open about 1/4 inch - I assume this is when the engine reaches its normal operating temperature to allow the water to bypass and help with the cooling). So, this seems okay or is it? I was told to take the mechanical switch out and try it all out and see if it makes a difference... well, before I undo all the bolts... I want to hear from fellow boaters that may have solved this problem in the past. - Lastly, I spent $100 essentially having an 'expert' tell me it’s not the coolant fluid (yep, getting to that little holding tank is impossible on this boat's configuration) anyway, at least now I know that you can open the cap on top and stick your finger in and get the same results (without seeing the holding tank on the back). I assume the temp sensor (also attached) is working since it is cutting out the engine. Also, I am pretty sure that no line contains any broken pieces of impeller (however, at this point I am open to any suggestions). Any suggestion to validate that water is running thru the 'main reservoir' to cool it off? Needless to say my preference is not to open the whole thing again, just to try it out without the temperature switch. Any other ideas would absolutely be welcomed! Kind regards, Heinrich
  12. Ken, I had to replace the same pump a whie back on my boat (also 2007 270 cr)... got the same one from Wallmart (of all places!) for $+- 39 - search their site for Sahara 500 Automatic Bilge Pump, (12 volt) (was cheaper than even West Marine - of course West Marine does do price matching). Took about +-15-30 min to replace... biggest job was cutting the wires, soldering and using heat shrink.... Btw, this was already covered in the forum at: http://forums.montereyboats.com/index.php?showtopic=853&hl=sahara
  13. Guys, awesome, thank you for all the advice! So, with lots of skepticism I tried the baby oil and holly cow it works like a charm! Again, thank you so much! Heinrich
  14. Hi all, I was wondering if other 270CR 205 owners are experiencing the same issue as us on our JABSCO Twist'n'Lock Compact Manual Head.<BR style="mso-special-character: line-break"><BR style="mso-special-character: line-break"> Background: We dry store our boat at the marina. We also never close any of the thru-hull shut-off valves. (Thinking/guessing this may have something to do with it… since all the water typically drains out.) I have also replaced all the internal fittings/seals (Jabsco Service Kit) on the pump-out mechanism (thinking that’s the problem). However, the problem still occurs intermittently. Question: The potty always pumps out into the holding tank even if you just dump water into the bowl), however sometimes it just won’t suck water in (needless to say the little lever is in the right position to allow it to pump out and in into the toilet). I’m questing (by looking under the stairwell that the thru hull valve) is the one that sucks water in from the lake into the potty? Or am I wrong and the porta-potty get its water from the clean water holding tank on the boat? Kind regards, Heinrich
  15. I have a 2005 270CR (so it may be different for your boat year): I assume you're referring to the mirror in the cabin (at the front against the front wall), behind that is the anchor locker - no way of getting to it unles you remove the 4 swcrews. The mirror in the bathroom is flush mounted. The only locker available is below the electrical panel (and that is used to store the plastic table and 2 table pedestals.
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