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My Monterey
Dodge06

250 CR Windlass

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Hi, I am looking at installing a windlass on my 2005 250cr and was wondering if anybody had any pics. of where to route the wires from the anchor locker to the engine bay.

 

Thanks Peter

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Hello 'Dodge06':

 

I have no PIC's however, I have experience. I own a 2006 250 CR and found the route the hard way, none the less, the following is the only path to take. I used a 3/8" CPVC pipe (approximately 12') duct taped both #14 marine grade wire to one end of the pipe fed it through the engine compartment up and along the starboard side guiding it to the location of the cable access at the console. You must remove the access panel on the dash which has the trim tabs and ignition switch. You must remove the rubber wire gromnet guide behind the dash where the wires pass into the back of the console. With one person pussing the pipe carefully towards the helm another person must reach through the wire access at the helm and assist guiding the pipe which you what to land pass the helm and behind the head cavity area to the cabin trim just above the V berth starboard back seat rest next to the head wall. You must remove the cabin trim which is about 4"'s wide and made of vinyl secured by screws. At each lap in the trim is were you will find the attachment screws. Remove all screws and you will find the path to the anchor locker. Once the pipe with wire duct tape to it is landed at the point were the trim is removed next to the head compartment you can remove the duct tape and pull the wire through. At this point the pipe is no longer needed and can be pulled back out. Pull the wire towards the bow and feed the wire into the anchor locker were the trim ended and covers the gap seperating the cabin and anchor locker. One person must reach into the anchor locker and grab the wire pulling the wire fully into the anchor locker. When you are ready to reinstall the vynle trim in the cabin, be carefull not to place any of the screws into the wiring. In connecting the windlass motor wiring to the #14 wire I placed an inline fuse holder (with fuse) to connect the wires which serves as an easy disconnect when the time comes.

 

I hope this has helped in some way for when I set out on this journey I asked the same question and received no responses. If this helps you I am glad to do so.

Let know how if it worked for you.

 

Good luck, have plenty of patience and happy boating.

 

Alan

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Alan,

 

Thanks for the info I will be installing it in the spring as I am now about to winterize the boat. I will take pics. as I go along so if anybody else is looking to install a windlass they should have a much info as possible to help them along the way.

 

Peter

 

 

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Alan,

 

Thanks for the info I will be installing it in the spring as I am now about to winterize the boat. I will take pics. as I go along so if anybody else is looking to install a windlass they should have a much info as possible to help them along the way.

 

Peter

 

 

 

Peter:

 

I can understand an early start on winter prep is paramount in your reigin. Here in north Florida, freeze conditions are few and far between, some of us simply just zip in our enclosures and go boating on a routine schedule through the winter to keep components active. When I purchased my 250 CR, the windlass was one of the project items, I found it appropriate to add a high water bilge alarm along with up dating the Bennett Trim Tabs with the EIC5000. The bilge was for safety sake with an added alarm if bilge pump(s) in some way failed while asleep on hook. The trim tab up grade was something for me to look at while under way with the auto retrack a nice feature.

 

I look forward to seeing your project pics in the spring time.

 

Alan

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I've got a 2007 250 CR. I went back and forth to hire it out or do it myself and finally got a decent bid (I thought) of $500 install. I went with that instead of the home garage install (won't fit in my garage). He had around 10 hours into it, so obviously underbid it. Its a tedious process and he said it was no fun. I don't want to dissuade but it is a big job. Good luck.

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Flathead,

 

Thanks for the heads up on the install, I will be doing it my self as I have the room in my garage to work on it and enjoy a good challange. What did you install for a windlass as I am looking at a Lewmar V700 as it should fit under the anchor hatch so as it will not be on the deck.

 

Peter

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Hey Dodge.

 

I put in a V1 which is the only one that would fit under my hatch. I called Monterey and got the recommended part but that was discontinued by Lewmar. The V1 was the replacement. Call Lewmar before buying rope/chain and double and triple check. The spec sheet with the installation guide had incorrect information as to chain and rope size. I almost bought the wrong stuff. And no one at Lewmar cared it was wrong. In fact double check everything. I don't think there are many windlass installs out West (I'm in Montana) I had a ton of problems with parts, getting the right stuff, etc.

 

Not sure if you've bought yet but West Marine matches internet pricing. I found a sweet price that they matched.

 

Email me if you have any issues. I may not be real helpful but I can look at my install if you have any issues. hopper dropper at g mail dot com No spaces obviously.

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Flathead,

 

Thanks for the heads up on the install, I will be doing it my self as I have the room in my garage to work on it and enjoy a good challange. What did you install for a windlass as I am looking at a Lewmar V700 as it should fit under the anchor hatch so as it will not be on the deck.

 

Peter

 

Hello Peter:

 

The Lewmar V700 is the same I used and it works fine. The instructions however are some what miss leading in stating a 4 amp fuse is to be used in the circuit. After calling Lewmar tech and they informing me this was a misprint that no fuse was required, I was able to complete the install and it works perfect. As mentioned in my previous post, I installed a 50 amp fuse holder at the windlass on both wires for future disconnect if ever I needed to remove the windlass. In addition I made a vinyl wedge for the windlass base to over come the locker shelf slope per the install instruction. The vinyl you can get at Home Depot, the material comes in 2" x 8", I also had a stainless steel perforated 12ga plate formed to fit the bottom of the anchor locker as a rode shelf to assists in keeping the rode dry and a flat surface for it to fold on. The breaker which comes with the windlass serves well as a disconnect when you do not need the circuit energized. The only item I am looking into at this time would be a swivel connection at the anchor. I have a 200' rode with 20' chain and hopefully this will limit the twists occurring in the rode during retrieval, bunching up in the anchor locker and at times stopping the retrieval process. Once I get it worked out I will post my results.

 

The windlass is the best, I can not even imagine boating without one.

 

Alan

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I found some depth markers on the internet made out of vinyl. You put these between the strands in your rode so you can tell how many feet of rode that you let out. They are a little thicker than paper and go through the windless without any problems or hang ups and they don't tear. The depths are in three different colors, green up to 100 feet then red, then yellow.

 

Sure is easy to let out the correct amount of rode without having to guess how much you've already payed out.

 

If I remember correctly I believe I paid less than $10.00 for the set. I left a comment on the selling site to us the US Post office to send me the set otherwise the UPS shipping charge was almost the price of the marker set.

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I found some depth markers on the internet made out of vinyl. You put these between the strands in your rode so you can tell how many feet of rode that you let out. They are a little thicker than paper and go through the windless without any problems or hang ups and they don't tear. The depths are in three different colors, green up to 100 feet then red, then yellow.

 

Sure is easy to let out the correct amount of rode without having to guess how much you've already payed out.

 

If I remember correctly I believe I paid less than $10.00 for the set. I left a comment on the selling site to us the US Post office to send me the set otherwise the UPS shipping charge was almost the price of the marker set.

 

Hello GetAway:

 

I have seen the ones you are referring to and I am debating whether or not to go that route or put in a rode counter. I could kick my self for not installing two additional wires while installing the windlass wiring. <_<

 

Alan

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:blink::blink:

Hello GetAway:

 

I have seen the ones you are referring to and I am debating whether or not to go that route or put in a rode counter. I could kick my self for not installing two additional wires while installing the windlass wiring. <_<

 

Alan

 

 

 

Just came back from a weekend on the hook with the newly installed windlass and it worked perfectly. It deployed and retrieved with out and issue and it held all weekend long. We had some pretty good winds on Sunday and not budge.

 

I installed a Lewmar V700 and it fit perfectly in the anchor locker and has lots of clearance to close the hatch.

 

This is what I did to install it.

 

1st. -Removed the trim piece from inside the cabin on the starboard side to expose the wires that are there so that I could run the wires I needed in the same spot get to the back of the boat.

2nd.-Removed the cup holder at the helm to expose the area where the wires would come past at the aft end of the head.

3rd.-Shoved a thin piece of lumber that I cut to a wedge at the front to be able to push it past the head and to get the headliner to release from the hull, and then I pushed through a media cable holder.

4th.-I removed the battery selector switch panel to access behind it, this is where I would mount the contactor and it is located in a spot that is high and dry.

5th.-Started at the front of the head and pushed the wires through the media cable holder this made fishing the wires very easy, pulled them from the back side all the way to the battery switch panel.

6th.-Fed the wires to the anchor locker along where the wires already run to it that are located behind the trim piece that I removed in the cabin.

7th.-Located the pattern down on the anchor locker and made sure that it was straight on in line where the anchor line is to come in to the gypsy of the windlass. Cut the holes and checked for fit. The mounting deck for the windlass is slanted to the front of the boat so I cut a wedge to bring the windlass level for line entry. The wedge was cut out of a sheet of hard plastic and then I cut the holes in it and used marine silicone to fix it to the mounting deck.

8th.-Wired the windlass in the anchor locker and mounted it to the deck.

9th.-Pulled the wires tight to the back of the boat to the contactor and then removed the gauge panel at the helm and fed the switch wires to the contactor, then fed the wires that I would tie into the battery (DO NOT CONNECT THE WIRES TO BATTERY YET) to the contactor and tied them all in to the contactor and mounted the contactor.

10th.-Cut the hole for the switch and connected the wires and mounted it at the helm beside the blower switch.

NOW CONNECT TO THE BATTERY and test the system and load the anchor line and give it a try.

 

I have pictures but I cannot load them for some reason.

 

Peter

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Question for you all with windlass. Do any of you have to change your anchor roller on the bow to a tipping kind. How does your anchor deploy?

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amanphoto,

 

I did not need to change the rollers as the anchor has enough weight to drop out of the mount on its own when deployed.

 

Peter

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