Rip5

I see what you are saying now. Our 282CR was set up with water line in the wetbar for an ice maker and also had an A/C outlet installed at the factory to power the unit. No DC connection was on our boat for an icemaker. Nor was there a breaker on the panel.So I am just guessing that the unit was A/C only for our boat at least. Ours does not have the icemaker wires installed. We just added an A/C only mini fridge in the wet bar. It was only $75 and is all we need. Stays cold all day without power, then we hook up to shore power when we get back to the slip. Plus we have the dual voltage fridge in the cabin. two ice trays in each fridge gets us through the day. We do not use enough ice to warrant a dedicated ice maker, and they are very pricey for a dual voltage model.

Add a breaker in the wet bar for the ice maker. Switch it off from there. Get the breaker like this here: http://dogbytecomputer.com/blue-sea-syst...face-mount.html

I believe the OP was looking for replacement lenses, not the bulbs themselves. Monterey factory had a bad fire in 1999, and I think they lost most of their technical information. So may be difficult to source the originals. Hopefully the MOST has the info saved somewhere on her old Fortran Computer. You can do a search for courtesey lights, cockpit lights and usually find some that can be swapped out that will fit.

You will need to give her the Hull ID number so she can look up what gel color was used on that particular boat. You can purchase gelcoat "kits" from Mini-Craft, www.minicraft.com (800-282-8244) or Spectrum Color, www.spectrumcolor.com (800-754-5516). You will need your hull identification number when you contact them to obtain the correct color match. Your hull ID begins with the letters "RGF" it is on the starboard side of the swim platform and on your vessel registration, insurance documents, etc.

Thanks so much for the link/picture. That took care of the problem. I had not seen a breakerlike that before, and totally missed the reset lever that was tripped.

Well, no breaker under the sink like Dan mentioned. Nothing in the engine compartment or under the helm either. Anyone know if there IS a breaker for the windlass ? It's location ? Windlass is locked in the up position and can't be used now.

I had no idea there was anything back there except the battery switches and shore power breakers. I will look tonite. If it is there, and that is the problem. I owe you one....... or two. Thanks Dan

Chain for the 600 is 1/4" US G4 ISO This Windlass is being discontinued. That figures, mine just stopped working this past weekend. Does anyone (MOST) know if there is a breaker or fuse somewhere on a 2005 282CR that may have been tripped ? And where to find it ? Thanks .

Try sterndrive.com send an e-mail and your question will get answered. The mercruiser site is your best source for information. Straight information from the people that made your engine and outdrive is better than information from a total stranger on a message board.

That would be a question for Mercruiser, since Monterey buys the engines and drives pre assembled and wired, and does not work on them, just install as a package in each boat. Contact : www.mercurymarine.com or call 405-743-6566 (in OK). You will need your engine and outdrive serial numbers when you contact them.

Same thing on my 2005 282CR. The tabs work fine, but the indicators are flakey.

They do have to "seal" the gel coat. That is called a barrier coating. Then 3 coats minimum of Trilux33 should be applied. The white Trilux looks good at first, but any growth and all stains are more noticeable than on a black bottom paint.

Our 2005 282 was set up with the water line for the ice maker, and AC outlet installed. The boat did not have an icemaker in the wetbar, but it was an option. I assume it is rigged from the factory to add the icemaker yourself. We just added a small fridge to the wetbar, rather than an icemaker. The ice often times tastes bad after awhile, unless you install a water filter, and flush the unit regularly. Too much hassle for us, and we really don't use ice in drinks that much. The fridge is a cheap apartment size unit, that is AC only, but works great while we are connected to shore power, and keeps drinks cold if we don't open it much for 5 hours on the water. We have the cabin fridge while underway if needed, and also always have a cooler full of ice on board anyway.

Trim senders routinely fail. No matter what brand outdrive you have. You will need to replace the sender for the one that does not work. Chances are the gauge is fine. It depends on what outdrives you have, as to how your speedometer operates. If you have BIII drives, your speedo pick up is in the front of the lower unit. Try using a paper clip to free any obstructions. If that does not work, take the gauge off the dash, pull the speedo tube, and force air down the tube with a compressor to clear any obstructions in the tube. If neither of those methods work, it could be your gauge. My 2005 282 has only one trim gauge working and no speedo either. The trim gauge is just a luxury, I trim by sound and feel, and rarely have ever used the gauge. Same with the speedo, it's never very accurate anyway. So I do not use it either. GPS gives me the speed more accurately. I won't fix either of them this season. Probably during winter layup I will repair both.

Same speakers on our 2005 282. They are okay, but nothing special. For a major improvement in sound. Try the Polk DB650. Higher power handling, more efficient, and requires only 2" mounting depth. The Magnadyne speakers are 2.5" in depth. The difference in sound wuality is amazing. If you don't like the silver/gray grills, painting them white is easy to do before installation. http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/specs/recent/db650/

Thank you so much for the link. The Attwood site has an install instruction pdf for the lights. Reading that says, "twist the lens counterclockwise and remove". Duh ! No wonder I could not pry it off. I will be getting a new 8 watt bulb tonite and get this fixed. Sunset cruise, here we come !

Only one screw at the rear of the light housing. Comes off easy to access two more screws that are fastened to the deck. Still no way I can see to get the "green" lens cover off to access the bulb itself or get to the third screw under the green lens cover that is alsoi fastened to the deck. Why does something that should be so simple , have to be so difficult? I guess no night cruises for us until I can get it fixed. MOST, do you know the manufacturer of the port and starboard nav lights on a 2005 282CR ? Maybe I can call them and have them walk me through it, or worst case, order new nav light if I break this one. Thanks in advance.

Thanks Dan. Mine is wired the same way. And it turns out that is the correct way for it to be wired. Pulled the fridge, checked all connections, voltage in and out both AC/DC, compressor runs, module is good, fan runs, thermostat works. It turns out, the previous owner must have tried to scrape some of the ice build up from the compressor evap lines, and poked a hole in one of them. So all the coolant leaked out. I have a HVAC tech trying to "patch" the hole in the evap line, and will then test the system under pressure and see if it holds the coolant. If not, you can't just replace the evap line on these Italian Danfos compressors. New compressor needed at over $500. So if it does not hold the coolant pressure, will start saving for either a new compressor or a different fridge. These Isotherm fridges get high praise from those in the industry, but I don't know if I am sold on them yet. New fridge is over $900. So, we may be living out of coolers this summer on the 282.

The Isotherm CR65 fridge in our new to us 2005 282CR is not working. It has power, but will not seem to start the compressor. Batteries are brand new. The Isotherm manual says " Always connect the refrigerator directly to the battery or to the battery main switch on the plus circuit. Do not connect it via the boats own control panel or other diversions as this can cause a voltage drop in the power supply." Most, is the fridge wired direct to the battery from the factory, or to the DC panel Refrigerator breaker ? If wired to the battery, how would the DC breaker switch be used ? I have called Isotherm and this is what they asked me, I did not know the answer, thus my post.

Well, now that we brought the 282 home, I need to change the starboard nav light bulb. Got the plastic (chrome) cover off the light base with one screw. Inside there is the plastic (green) lens that is over the light. I can't get that off to access the bulb itself. I tried prying it off with a screwdrive, butter knife and it would not budge. There are two screws in the rear of the bulb housing that attach it to the deck, but there must be a third one under the lens that I can't get to because the lens will not come out of the base/housing. I think the wiring is fine, just need to get to the bulb itself and replace it. So what is the trick to get the lens off ? I'm afraid I will break it into pieces if I apply more force to pry it off. And, if I do break it, what is the replacement part number/manufacturer for a new one in case I need to order one. Our boat is a 2005 282CR as well. Thanks

Yes, those are for the drive lube on the BIII's. Not sure what you mean here. Our 2005 282 does not have diesel engines, and we have nothing like that on ours. Possible trim tab reservoir ???

I have the same issue with our(hopefully) 2005 282. I believe there is a small phillips screw at the back of the housing, loosen that, and the cover will come off to access the bulb.

Does the 2005 282CR come with a Delta plow anchor from the factory? The 282 we are getting does not have an anchor, I put a Danforth on there temporarily, but does not draw up properly with the windlass. It takes a helping hand to get it on their squarely. I have seen some 282's with Deltas and some with CRQ's. The bow roller has two rollers, fore roller is lower than aft, which is what a Delta would normally use. MOST, or anyone who knows, I would appreciate any help. Thanks

Not in stock, but can be ordered. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/676988-REG/Coby_TFTV1325_13_ATSC_DIGITAL_LCD.html This one is both 110V and 12V with DVD player. In stock http://www.roadtrucker.com/electronics-4.htm#Skyworth_13_AC_DC_Color_12_Volt_TV_DVD Or you could just buy a converter box for your current TV, and save some money.

Thanks. The marina tech is re-wiring back to factory spec this week. Should be good to go then. Batteries are being installed also, so 12V systems can all be checked and verified. Cable is wired to the cabin from the factory, so we just need to hook it up at the slip. Thanks again for the information/help.