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My Monterey


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Everything posted by Ian

  1. Hi Politby, Look at this link - it explains how tabs work and wven has a simulator http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/guidetotrimtabs2.php Generally - the labelling of the switches reflects what you want the bow of the boat to do Because the tabs are at the rear of the boat, you need to do the opposite of what you think to change the bow Its all to do with the water flow across the surface of the tab and the drag of the water (and Sir Issac Newton's observation for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction or something like that) If you ever see the Volvo QL Interupter Plate system (alternative to the traditional bennet style trim tabs), the control panel doesn't even use words like up/down, port/starboard. It just uses little pictograms of a boat with arrows of what you want the bow to do http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/VO-QL3841717.htm Regards Ian
  2. Hi Rip, You can replace the evaporators If it is your evaporator and you cant fix it - you can buy replacements for about $80 http://isotherm-parts.com/zcart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=176&products_id=4296 If looking for any Danfoss replacement parts - don't just look at Indel / Isotherm The Danfoss BD35F (the compressor and evaporator used in your CR65) is used in many different friges (Engel, Dometic etc.) so you might something a little cheaper from one of them Hope this helps Ian P.S Danfoss parent company is German Indel parent company is Italian Whenever you see something marked "made in Europe" or "made in EU" without actually specifying a country, generally this means it was made in one of those old "Eastern Bloc" countries. They have "globalisation" in Europe too.
  3. Hi, I have the older sibling - a 330SY - I don't think there are too many differences. Same hull I believe Overall a great boat - I have been very happy with it over the last 2 - 2.5 years Only thing I don't like about it is the trim I am not a great fan of the QL "interupter plates". I can never seem to get enough trim to level boat in the "side to side" (roll?) attitude under windy conditions I have 350 MPI Mercs with Bravo3 legs. The boat will only take a very small amount of leg trim before props start to cavitate Under the right conditions will scream along at 41knots. Fantastic feeling! Will generally sit around the 20-25 knot mark at 3300 - 3800 rpm I mostly use mine on big open bays and rivers although coastal running is great too. Finish / layout is 2nd to none. My boat is moored all year round. Gelcoat ("Onyx" colour = black) is still the same colour as the day I bought it Would I still purchase one today based on my experiences to date? - definately! Good luck with your decision
  4. Don't how if this will help - I have never tried http://www.pkys.com/FAQ/galvanic.htm http://www.yandina.com/galvanicIsolator.htm Regards Ian
  5. Ian


    Here is something interesting to see how well your microwave is performing http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYmwwattagetest.htm Be careful if heating water by itself http://www.snopes.com/science/microwave.asp best idea seems to be to leave a wooden popsicle stick or coffee stirrer in the container whilst heating Sorry, I can't help with any of your other questions Ian
  6. Not sure I can offer much but ...... Have you tried any other volvo forums or boards? (I found a lot of info about volvo fuel pumps from another boating forum) Do you get any engine "alarms" or "beeps" when the engine goes into partial shutdown? I would have thought you would have caused a lot more issues other than the splines at 3500 rpm. Did you get any water ingestion into the block? How does it sound compared to the other engine / drive. Try running on 1 engine to say 2000rpm for a couple of minutes then shut down and try the same thing on the other engine. Is it different? Might give a few clues Ian
  7. Hi DWE, I'm not a mechanic Not sure if this will help but found similar comments on a fourwinns board http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=3636 Based on those response and that from boatingbouy, sounds like its something in the fuel system These engines have 2 fuel pumps. A low pressure pump sucks the fuel from the tank. A second high pressure pump is then used to supply the injection system. Seems it can come from either the high pressure pump or the low pressure pump or the filter You said you have replaced the high pressure pump, what about low pressure pump and filter? The 3rd post from the top has a link for the fuel components for a 1999 5.7 Gi / GSi motor. I don't know if it is the same as your year model. It seems unusual that it only does it once the temperature has reached operating range but others have reported it takes a while for the sound to develop. I wouldn't be concerned about the "pressure" in your fuel tank. The "rush" of pressure you experienced when you removed the gas cap is probably just temperature of the air inside the tank warming and expanding. If your high pressure pump was "blowing back", I suspect you'd be having a LOT more troubles than just squeeling. I used to have a 5.0 GXi on another brand of boat but never had any issues with it other than an impellor failure in the seawater pump (engine overheating when over 3000rpm) Hopefully this assists Ian The pressure
  8. I don't know the model frig - but I'm guessing it will be from the Indel range If you are handy with the multimeter - check out the thermostat. The thermostat can rust out and go either open circuit (won't start comp) or closed circuit (comp always on) If it is the thermostat, you can usually pick up a generic replacement for around $15. The genuine indel part usually run about $60 Indel use Danfross controls and compressors. If it is your compessor, these are sold as "sealed units" i.e. the compressor and evaporator are sold as a complete unit and pre-charged with gas. This makes it difficult to replace as a DIY as you need to evacuate the gas first, dis-assemble the lines (so you can install the evaporator plate or compressor), then you need to re-gas the system. It requires specialist tools to evacuate and re-gas. New refrigerators aren't cheap. The later models come with self fault diagnosis. They have a LED (or series) which will flash in certain sequences to indicate a problem (fault flashes are listed in the frig owner manual). I am not sure if 2000 / 2001 models had this feature Be wary of anyone who just wants to "re-gas" your system. They need to find why / where it is leaking from first.
  9. Hi Lou, Sorry I don't know much about the USA tv system. If you cant find a new 'small' digital tv, try getting a 'set top box' that will convert the new digital signal into an analogue signal suitable for your old tv. Some basic info can be found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Set-top_box (see 3rd section, 3rd paragraph for US comments) You will also need a new aerial / antenna system. I am fairly certain you will need this in any case (new digital tv - or set top box) Regards
  10. Hi, Do you have "water diagrams" to show pipe routings, fittings, sizes etc. for the 330 / 355? I have seen such diagrams in the 350 manual but cannot find in the 330 / 355 manual. Thanks
  11. Hi boatingboy, Sounds like you have 2 separate and distinct problems. 1 = a breaker problem 2 = a toilet system problem I am not sure of your technical skills in problem solving. If you are not confident - now is the time to go see your marine electrician to sort the breaker problem first. Then you can tackle the toilet problem. If you are confident to push on, here are a few things I would be checking if it was my boat. FIRSTLY and MOST IMPORTANTLY, for safety swith of the AC supply and physically disconnect the shore power plug at BOTH the boat and the dock. The AC / DC are separated but you can never be too safe. A. If the pump is still running with the breaker in the off postion, you have a few possibilities. 1 = the breaker is faulty. It is very unusal - but not impossible - for a breaker to go "closed circuit" when it fails a. Firstly look at the rear of the breaker panel and check to see if there is actually a wire connected to the "load" side of the breaker. If a previous owner had a problem with the breaker at some time, they could have removed it and put it onto another breaker. This is of course not the correct thing to do - but in an emergency understandable. (although it should have been subsequently traced / fixed) b. If there is no wire connected, you need to find where it has gone. (If there is a wire connected, go to next step c.) I have looked in the owner's manaul, however as luck would have it, it does not have a breaker panel wiring diagram (your name isn't Murphy is it?) Tracing the wiring harness, I think it should be a (brown with narrow blue stripe) wire - but cannot be certain of this. If you can see this somewhere on another breaker, switch that breaker off and see if pump stops. If it doesn't stop, it must be another colour and we need to progress a little further. Leaving main DC power on to the breaker panel - switch off ALL the DC breakers. Turn the first breaker on and listen for the head pump. If no head pump, switch that breaker off and go to next breaker and repeat until you find the breaker that controls the head pump. Do not have anymore than 1 breaker on at a time. If / when you find the breaker, then you will have to lift the individual wires, one at a time, from the load side of the breaker, until you find the wire that controls the head pump. Once you have found this head pump wire, return it back to the correct breaker. At this point you will find if this breaker is faulty or not. If the breaker is faulty, you will need to replace it with the same amp / voltage rating. c. If there is a wire still connected, confirm it is the correct wire by lifting it off the breaker. If the pump stops, your breaker is faulty. Replace the breaker with one of the same amp / voltage rating 2. = If you have done all of the above and still can't switch off the head pump, someone has really been playing with your DC electrics and you will need to pay the marine electrician to find out what has happened. B. Once you have fixed the problem relating to the breaker switching, you need to rectify why the head pump is continuousy running. As noted previously by Dan and myself, you need to look at vacuum leaks at bowl, pipe connections, tank connections and pump Hope this has been of some help - a very unusal problem. If none of the above worked for me - I would be seeking outside help Just remember to play with the DC wiring, one wire at a time. Never disconnect buches or multiples - otherwise you may forget where they went - creating more problems Regards
  12. Hi seanfitz, Generally, for the C70 to work as a depthsounder (and fishfinder) you will need a DSM30 or DSM300 interface module. A depth transducer is fitted and cabled to the DSM which in turn is cabled to the rear of the C70. You will need to follow the installation documentation for both the DSM and the depth transducer to ensure correct and proper functioning. If you dont have the documents go to the Raymarine website ( www.raymarine.com ) and search for them. There are several types of depth transducers you can use (transome mount, in-hull, thru-hull) and documentation for installation can also be found on their website. Hope this assists Ian P.S. It is not possible to wire a depth transducer directly into the C70 without the DSM interface UNLESS you already have other instrumentation on board that uses the proprietary Raymarine "SeaTalk" protocols (e.g. the "ST" series of displays) OR some other industry standard protocols known as NMEA. In this case, you can link the existing display/s to the C70 to show the other data. I do not think the standard 282CR instrument/s are either "SeaTalk" or NMEA compatible.
  13. The vacuflush head system including the vacuum pump is controlled via a circuit breaker on the 12 volt panel inside the cabin (which is located next to the 110volt panel). The panel location is shown in the Owner's manual at page M24. If you need a copy, you can download from the forums under section "Product Support downloadables - Cruiser Owner Manuals" If you switch this breaker off - the head system will be inactive. You should however investigate the reason why the vacuum pump is continuosly running. Vacuum flush toilets work by creating a vacuum which literally sucks the waste out of the bowl and hoses / pipes. When first turned on, the pump should run for up to a minute to create this initial vacuum. When you flush the toilet, the pump will start and run again to re-create the vacuum. The vacuum pump also runs occasionally to maintain the vacuum in the head system even if you haven't flushed it. It is commom for the pump to operate a few times every 30 - 60 mins. This compensates for any small vacuum leaks in the vacuflush head itself, hoseclamps or pump. If the pump continuously runs you have problems and you should check the whole head system. If you want to DIY, you can download owners manuals from the www or from the downloads available here on the forums site under "Product Support Downloadables - General Use, Care and Maintenance Manuals" (if your model of head is listed) Areas to investigate include the seals at the base of pan, hoseclamps and the pressure sensor switch which activates the pump. Hope this helps
  14. Hi, I can't help you specifically with details regarding a 282, however I can provide some info based on my 330 (assuming they use the same gelcoat - resin) For the barrier coating, check your warranty document. I have a 330 and I must use one as my boat is permanently moored and uses bottom paint. Extract from my warranty document is "A marine barriercoating must be properly applied to the hull bottom if the boat is to be moored in water for periods of more than sixty(60) days in any ninety (90) day period and a marine barrier coating is also required if the boat is to be bottom painted." Also, check your owner's manual - here is an extract from my 330. "Bottom Painting Your Monterey hull is manufactured using state-of-the-art materials and processes. A layer of super tough, Ashland “AME” Resin with high density and superior adhesion properties provides an exceptionally effective barrier to osmotic blistering. Osmosis is caused by a chemical reaction between water and substances in the hull laminate below the waterline. If water breaches the exterior gelcoat and barrier layer, it can react with the chemical components in the laminate creating acidic substances. These substances create pressure behind the gelcoat which causes blisters. An epoxy barrier coating such as the Interlux Interprotect® system properly applied to the hull before bottom paint will help prevent this problem. A barrier coating also provides an excellent base coat for the bottom paint. Even though the hull on your Monterey is built with a layer of Ashland “AME” blister resistant resin, we recommend that additional protection from marine growth and pollution be provided by a barrier coating system and antifouling paint if the boat is to be left in the water for over 30 days. This is extremely important as pollution and marine growth can cause osmosis and damage fiberglass hulls. Most bottom paints require some maintenance. Proper maintenance is especially important when the boat is in saltwater and not used for extended periods or after dry storage. If the hull bottom has been painted with antifouling paint, contact your dealer for the recommended maintenance procedures. WARNING Sandblasting the hull bottom will damage the fiberglass. Use a fiberglass wax remover and sand to scuff the gelcoat surface. The instructions and recommendations of the barrier coating and antifouling paint manufacturer should be followed exactly." Sorry I can't help with your other questions for a 282. Hopefully someone else here will be able to provide info for you Regards
  15. Hi Dan Sounds like you got it all covered Let me know how it all turns out Regards Ian
  16. Hi Dan, Sounds like the 'easiest' solution. If your electrician is happy then you should be too. I am not an electrician, but I would also consider the following points: 1. I don't know if you have dual voltage refrigerator/s in your 282. You will need to check. Generally the control circuitry in the refrigerator/s will always select the 115ac supply if it has both ac and dc available to run. If you 'switch over' the slide switches to run your inverter through the 115ac wiring, the refrigerator/s will also draw on the inverter. So besides running your coffee marker / microwave, you will also be running the refigerator/s. I don't believe you can manually switch which power supply you prefer. I know I can't in my 330 with 2 Indel Isotherm friges (other than physically switching the knob inside to the 'off' position) I guess your battery charger would also 'turn on' thinking it was now running off your 'phantom genset' i.e. the inverter 2.Have a discussion with your electrician about the mounting and type of inverter. Remember you always have the possibility of gas / fuel fumes (engines) and hydrogen gas (from battery charging). Whilst some inverters are designed to work in "volatile environments", most are not. Mounting the unit in the main cabin would be preferred however your electrician will need to consider wire diameters and distances for the 12v supply. Hope your wife enjoys the coffee!
  17. Hi Dan, That is one serious coffee maker if you need 2000W to run it! If all you ever want is coffee - look at buying a 12v version. Just google search 12 volt coffee maker. These commonly draw 10 - 15 amps at 12 volts for about 10 mins, so your existing battery setup should be ok. (This would also be much cheaper than a 2000w inverter) If you do want to install an inverter, you will find a lot of info on selection, sizing, batteries, cabling etc. on the web. Here is one example http://www.majorpower.com/inverters/battery_sizing_faq.pdf but you can find many more. NEVER try to "tap into" your existing 110v wiring system with an inverter. It is extremely dangerous and potentially lethal (not to mention it probably being illegal). It might be possible to use a 'changeover' type system similar to what Monterey have done with the genset / shore power switching but this is something you would need a qualified electrician for. Depending on the length of time you intend to run the inverter, you may need another house battery. If you do, make sure you choose the same type as your existing house batteries so that you can use the same battery charger. (Are you the same Dan that asked about adding house batteries and charging them in a previous post?) You will need separate and dedicated 12volt supply wires to run a 2000w inverter (see the commentary in the above link). Don't forget switching and fusing Hope this helps some Ian
  18. Hi, I am due to slip my 330SY for antifoul etc. and I have 2 questions 1. The owner's manual suggests a "barrier coat" of Interlux Interprotect be applied to the hull before the anti-foul. Is this something I need to do EVERY time I repaint the anti-foul? 2. The company doing the anti-foul have suggested to have the "topsides" (between waterline and gunnels) a. They have suggested an 'acid wash'. Does Monterey recommend this? Are there any warranty implications? b. For the actual polishing, what products do Monterey recommend? Thanks
  19. [ Sorry Cal, I can't tell you what the ticking noise is or explain the fact it goes away under load. Only thing I can tell you is that when my bearings corroded, they made a LOT and I mean a LOT, of noise. Maybe the tick comes before the screaming And a lot of vibration - straight line, corner, anything. It different make any difference Anyhow, good luck with it Ian
  20. In a single word? - expensive! I don't know age / model of your leg but make sure you get a copy of the Mercruiser engine / drive installation manual (if it didn't come with your boat documentation , you can download from the Mercuiser site. I think installation manauls are free to download. If you have any problems, I have a copy of the 350 MPI Bravo III documents if you need) There is basically 1 reason for premature gimball bearing / uni joint failure..... that is water entry inside the rubber bellows that shrouds the said items between the transome mount and the drive leg. The 3 major reasons for water entry inside the rubber bellows are: 1. Age of the bellows - the rubber will deteriorate with age and develop tears/ holes which allow entry of water and therefore corrosion of the components connecting drive and engine. It is important that the boat is always stored with the legs in the fully "down" position. After a day on the water, always trim your leg to the down position. If the boat is on a trailer, also make sure you trim the leg down after road transport and you get it home / to storage. Essentially this relieves the compression / stress of the "V's" or "folds" in the belows making it last longer 2. The second reason is loose fitting "hose clamps". For want of better words, there are 2 hose clamps or oval shaped clamps that seal the outer edge of the bellows to the drive leg. These are located on the 'drive" end of the bellows. If they are corroded or become loose (or as per my case - never fitted correctly in the first place - boats shipped overseas from the factory do not have legs fitted at shipment and the local agent needs to fit drives upon arrival in the country of delivery), this will allow entry of water into the bellows, causing corrosion. 3. Finally, problems can arise where the bellows joins the transome mount. At this joint, they do not use "hose clamps". Rather they use a compression ring moulded into the rubber bellows to fit into a seat within the transome housing. Again if this seal / seat is not correct, it will allow the bellows to fill with water and thus allow corrosion. (My apologies if the descriptions above are not clear - there are several diagrams within the engine / drive installation manuals that will illustrate more explicitly) In summary, you need to keep water out of the bellows. If you do it yourself, make sure the bellows are new and "sealed" correctly at both ends. If your marine mechanic is doing the work for you, make sure you inspect the bellows and sealing before they put the boat back in the water - trust me - I know from personal experience. I had to replace 2 sets of bearings and uni-joints due to incorrect bellows fitting (both covered by Mercruiser warranty). It has been nearly 2 years since repairs without any issues. Hope this assists Regards
  21. Hi Does anyone know who is the supplier for the shower seat that is used in the new 340? Thanks
  22. Hi Does anyone know where the 30A galvanic isolator is located on the 330SY / 355SY? Thanks
  23. Hi I am assuming you are talking about "drive leg trim" The power supply for this comes from the engine wiring harness - it shouldn't have a separate supply wire back to the battery. If everything else is working correctly you have probably knocked a connector loose. So I'd try there first. Secondly somewhere in the engine wiring harness there should be a fuse (or similar) for the trim pump. Check your engine manual for the location. Depending on the engine type it could be in a fuse box attached to the engine or an "in-line" type in the harness itself. Hope it helps
  24. Hi Marfi, Please let me know if it works. It is an interesting point about the different types of algae. I wonder if Australian algae are different again. As for your boat being an antenna, watch out for those stealth submarines doing exercises in the Ntn Atlantic, Gibraltar Straits and Med ! -
  25. I have only seen the photos in the brochures of the 340SY. (see link) http://www.montereyboats.com/ssp_director/...Head_2_copy.jpg In the bottom left hand corner of this photo, you can the edge of the toilet bowl and seat. Above it is a hinged shower seat similar to what is fitted to the 350 and the older 322. The shower seat sits approx. 1-2" above the toilet lid. The shower seat also has molded slots for drainage You can also see this seat is supported by a "lip" in the vertical face of the cabinet fibreglass / acyrlic I was trying to find a part no. / manufacture. Regards
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