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My Monterey


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Everything posted by Dodge06

  1. Mark, The trim piece is one full length. It is attached by screws that are under the fold over that you see along the length I think that there is either 4 or 5 of these. You just have to pull the fold out of the way and the screw will be exposed for you to remove it. Remove all of the screws and the trim piece will come right off. Peter
  2. The wedge is 1/2" thick at the bow end of the windlass and 1/8" at the stern end. I did it this way so that the wedge would support the whole windlass and this way the wedge would be secured completely. I used a table saw to cut the wedge in a very creative way, then I finished it off with a belt sander to get it even all the way across the surface.
  3. I looked in 250CR and there are two horns, the other wires are for the second horn.
  4. amanphoto, I did not need to change the rollers as the anchor has enough weight to drop out of the mount on its own when deployed. Peter
  5. Amanphoto, I have a 2005 250CR with air, the discharge is routed between the head and the hull and dumps into the shower sump and this is what discharges I over board. The sump pump needs to be on when the AC is on. Peter
  6. Amanphoto, I have a 2005 250cr with air, the unit it self is located under the seat in the cabin in front of the closet on the port side. The drain from the AC is routed to the shower sump and this is how it is discharged over board. Peter
  7. Hi Trombolo, I looked up online and the seal kit for the Bravo III is Part # 87400A2. Hope this helps.
  8. nocuses I finally got my boat out of storage and looked at how I removed the mirror. There are screw head covers on screws(4 screws) on the panel to which the mirror is attached to. I pulled the covers off and the 4 screws,they are there to attach the panel to the bulk head,once the 4 screws were out and the panel removed you will see the 4 screws holding the mirror from the back side of the panel. I had to also remove the trim pieces that are in the cabin that cover where the hull and top are joined. To remove these you will see folded over pieces of vinyl on the trim board, pull back the folded over pieces and you will see there is a screw at each folded over area. Remove the screws and this will allow you to take the trim piece off and give the room to pull the front panel off. Good luck it is not hard to do. Peter
  9. noxcuses, I did the same thing I have a 2005 250CR, the way to get the mirror off is, in the anchor locker there are 4 screws holding the mirror from the anchor locker side and they are easy to remove the mirror will come off in one piece. Peter
  10. The ladder that should be the one to fit there is WINDLINE OVERPLATFORM TELESCOPING 4 STEP. product # TDL-4X
  11. Purchased one from West Marine for my 250 CR this fits in the spot under the sink in the cockpit. Marine Ice Chest - 25 Qt., 11 1/4"H x 13 1/8"W x 20"L 2004190 6776 In stock online. $39.99
  12. Peterr Before you buy from E-Bay one look at these I replaced mine on my 250 CR this spring and they have kits for replacing the charcoal and foam which costs a lot less than replacing the whole filter assembly each time. http://bigorangefilter.com/ Peter
  13. Mark, I did not need to put anything in on the deck as the chain does not rub, it is hard to tell from the pictures but there is about 3 inches of clearence from the chain to the deck. When letting out the anchor the weight on the line from the anchor keeps the line tight and the same when retrieving the anchor. I have only 15 feet of chain on and the rest is rope. I looked up your boat on line and it is set up different than mine, my battery selector switch is located on the starboard side of the cocpit under the table, it is in a box so I was able to remve the box to gain access to the starboard side of the boat between the hull and the cocpit. It looks like you have a storage well in the same location and it should be removeable with screws on the face of it. This allow you to access the area between the hull and the cocpit. It looks like you would have the same drink holder/courtesy light compartment under the throttle that is also removeable to gain access near the helm. If you remove these you should have the access that you need. Peter
  14. Hi Mark, I will refer to the pictures in my previous post. As you see in Pic. #1 I removed the cabin head liner trim piece and fished form the cabin side back to the cocpit. Getting past the head was the hardest part as the head liner was glued to the hull and the head both. I used a piece of hard wood dowel which I put a taper on the leading edge to feed it through past the head and it pulled the liner away and then I feed a flat piece for wood about 1/4" x 1 1/2" cut on a taper at the lead edge.This cut away a lot more of the glued liner which allowed me to fish in a piece of wire loom ( which I purchased at a hardware store). I left the wire loom in place and this is what I ran the wires through to get past the head(Pic.#3). I removed the cup holder insert at the helm to access the aft and starboard side of the head to make sure the the loom passed the head and was exposed to be accessable (Pic #3 was taken from where the cup holder was removed). To feed wires from the engine room to the helm I removed the battery switch box (Pic.#6 was taken with the battery switch box removed) and feed the wires form the engine bay to the battery switch box then to where the cup holder insert was and then to the helm when I removed it.This way I was able to feed the wires and did not need a fish tape for it. If you remove these access areas first you should be able to do the same with little trouble. Hope this helps if you need more let me know, if this works let us know or what you did. Good Luck Peter
  15. Dan, The first picture - wire loom with wires running through that I used to get past the head. The second picture - that I removed the trim piece and that is where I ran the wires behind, in the cabin. The third picture - the wire loom on the aft side of the head under the helm. The fourth picture - where the wires came through from the cabin into the anchor locker. The fifth picture - the template on the mounting shelf in the anchor locker. The sixth picture - the contactor mounted in behind the battery switches. The seventh picture - the switch mounted on the dash. The eight picture - the windlass mounted in the locker (NOTE the wedge under the windlass to keep the chain level over the bow of the boat). The last picture - the anchor locker closed over the windlass. Hope this helps if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask - I have alot more pictures and I will give you any other information you need. Peter
  16. Hi Dan, I installed a Lewmar V700 last year in my 2005 250CR. I used it all summer and it worked excellent the unit fit under the lid to the anchor locker so it is not seen. It has lots of holding power never a problem with loosing anchor. Install took a little while as I fished the wires from the engine room to the locker. I do have pics. of it if you would like to see them let me know and I will load them. Peter
  17. PWC1011, Check out Lewmar's website under stainless port holes as they have the style that are in the 250cr. Not to sure if they are the propere size cannot get to my boat to measure but a good chance that they are.
  18. The batteries are used for both starting and house. The best thing to do is to to buy Deep Cycle marine batteries as they can be used for either starting or as a house battery. This where the battery selector switch come into play, use one battery at a time on the switch. Select either #1 or #2 as your starting battery and the other as your house battery. When you go to start the boat switch to #1 and leave it there until you arrive at where you are going to stay for awhile then switch over to #2 and leave it there until you got to leave or you run out of power. This way you will have the starting battery available and will not be left stranded. Switch this up each time you go out as this will help keep the batteries at the same level. The altenator will charge both batteries no matter the position of the selector switch, if you leave your boat in the water when you turn the selector switch to OFF at the dock when you leave, the boat SYSTEMS (bilge pumps,stereo memory,C02 detector) stays powered up and it will draw off of both batteries during this time if one of the components needs to work. Hope this helps Peter
  19. schmpgn, If this is like most of the other coolers that are on the Monterey's it is a 25qt Igloo marine cooler, I bought one from west marine this past may and the price was $29.00. Peter
  20. Joe, I just installed a lewmar 700 in my 250CR and it has lots of clearence under the locker door. I found that to remove the board to get to the anchor locker you had to remove the screws from behind the mirror as they went into a board in the locker. when I removed the board there was very little space to get to the locker so I had to do every thing from the front of the boat and work from the top of the anchor locker in under the mounting shelf. We have been out every weekend since I installed it and it holds very well no problems with it. If you would like to see pics. I have them but can not load them on to the form so I would e-mail them to you if you would like.
  21. Zach, Check out West marine as I purchased a new Igloo 25qt cooler for my 250Cr this spring and it was $29.00 there. Hope this helps . Peter
  22. Heinrich, I have a 2005 250CR and the configuration is the same as your boat. The thru-hull valve that is located in the sump hole under the stairs is the pick up for the toilet. I had the same problem last year with it not picking up water to fill the bowl. I put baby oil down the bowl and flushed it into the holding tank as this is a lubricated the seals in the pump and will not harm them and the pump worked fine since. I also do the baby oil thing in the fall when I winterize it and it is good to go the next year. Hope this helps Peter
  23. I also installed a pedestal mount on my swim platform 250cr, the BBQ that I have is a Dickinson and it works very well on the mount.
  24. Tried out the new solar panels and house batteries this past weekend. They worked excellent we had more than enough power for everything and the solar panels never let the charge of the house batteries go below 75%. We had the fridge on all weekend, lights, stereo, pumps and the TV on at different times and never had a problem at all. I installed a 3000 watt inverter also but we did not use it this weekend, so I disconnected it when we got home and now I will be able to tell what kind of draw it pulls from the batteries even when it is turned off but connected to the batteries. This is installed on a 2005 250CR. I do have pictures but againg for some reason I can not load them on to the forum. Thanks Peter
  25. Just came back from a weekend on the hook with the newly installed windlass and it worked perfectly. It deployed and retrieved with out and issue and it held all weekend long. We had some pretty good winds on Sunday and not budge. I installed a Lewmar V700 and it fit perfectly in the anchor locker and has lots of clearance to close the hatch. This is what I did to install it. 1st. -Removed the trim piece from inside the cabin on the starboard side to expose the wires that are there so that I could run the wires I needed in the same spot get to the back of the boat. 2nd.-Removed the cup holder at the helm to expose the area where the wires would come past at the aft end of the head. 3rd.-Shoved a thin piece of lumber that I cut to a wedge at the front to be able to push it past the head and to get the headliner to release from the hull, and then I pushed through a media cable holder. 4th.-I removed the battery selector switch panel to access behind it, this is where I would mount the contactor and it is located in a spot that is high and dry. 5th.-Started at the front of the head and pushed the wires through the media cable holder this made fishing the wires very easy, pulled them from the back side all the way to the battery switch panel. 6th.-Fed the wires to the anchor locker along where the wires already run to it that are located behind the trim piece that I removed in the cabin. 7th.-Located the pattern down on the anchor locker and made sure that it was straight on in line where the anchor line is to come in to the gypsy of the windlass. Cut the holes and checked for fit. The mounting deck for the windlass is slanted to the front of the boat so I cut a wedge to bring the windlass level for line entry. The wedge was cut out of a sheet of hard plastic and then I cut the holes in it and used marine silicone to fix it to the mounting deck. 8th.-Wired the windlass in the anchor locker and mounted it to the deck. 9th.-Pulled the wires tight to the back of the boat to the contactor and then removed the gauge panel at the helm and fed the switch wires to the contactor, then fed the wires that I would tie into the battery (DO NOT CONNECT THE WIRES TO BATTERY YET) to the contactor and tied them all in to the contactor and mounted the contactor. 10th.-Cut the hole for the switch and connected the wires and mounted it at the helm beside the blower switch. NOW CONNECT TO THE BATTERY and test the system and load the anchor line and give it a try. I have pictures but I cannot load them for some reason. Peter
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