Windlass for 2003 245CR

[Fratalia17 0]

Hello,

 

I'm looking to see if anybody has a recommendation for a windlass for a 2003 245CR... If anybody has a specific brand and model, or just a type, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Dan

[Dodge06 0]

Hi Dan,

 

I installed a Lewmar V700 last year in my 2005 250CR. I used it all summer and it worked excellent the unit fit under the lid to the anchor locker so it is not seen. It has lots of holding power never a problem with loosing anchor. Install took a little while as I fished the wires from the engine room to the locker. I do have pics. of it if you would like to see them let me know and I will load them.

 

Peter

[Fratalia17 0]

Peter,

 

Thanks a lot for the response. If you could send pics that would be great. If it's too big of a pain I understand, but I'd love to see how you did it.... Greatly appreciated it.

 

Thanks again,

 

Dan

[Dodge06 0]

 

Dan,

 

The first picture - wire loom with wires running through that I used to get past the head.

The second picture - that I removed the trim piece and that is where I ran the wires behind, in the cabin.

The third picture - the wire loom on the aft side of the head under the helm.

The fourth picture - where the wires came through from the cabin into the anchor locker.

The fifth picture - the template on the mounting shelf in the anchor locker.

The sixth picture - the contactor mounted in behind the battery switches.

The seventh picture - the switch mounted on the dash.

The eight picture - the windlass mounted in the locker (NOTE the wedge under the windlass to keep the chain level over the bow of the boat).

The last picture - the anchor locker closed over the windlass.

 

Hope this helps if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask - I have alot more pictures and I will give you any other information you need.

 

Peter

[GetAway 0]

Hi Dan,

 

I installed a Lewmar V700 last year in my 2005 250CR. I used it all summer and it worked excellent the unit fit under the lid to the anchor locker so it is not seen. It has lots of holding power never a problem with loosing anchor. Install took a little while as I fished the wires from the engine room to the locker. I do have pics. of it if you would like to see them let me know and I will load them.

 

Peter

 

Hello Peter,

 

Great pictures. Question... from the engine room, how did you snake the wires towards the bow? What did you use for a snake? I'm having a heck of a time trying to get wires forward. I am going to install the Garmin Fuel Flow system and the NMEA 2000K network and I'm having problems running them to the cockpit. I have a 2000 242 Cruiser.

 

Any help would be more than fantastic!

 

Mark

[Fratalia17 0]

This is great Peter, I need to hop on my boat and look at my anchor hatch to see how much room I have. I'm hoping its very similar to yours. I'm up in Boston (shrink wrapped) so I'll try to get on in the next few days.

 

I'll come back to you real soon.

 

Thanks again.

[Dodge06 0]

Hi Mark,

 

I will refer to the pictures in my previous post.

 

As you see in Pic. #1 I removed the cabin head liner trim piece and fished form the cabin side back to the cocpit. Getting past the head was the hardest part as the head liner was glued to the hull and the head both. I used a piece of hard wood dowel which I put a taper on the leading edge to feed it through past the head and it pulled the liner away and then I feed a flat piece for wood about 1/4" x 1 1/2" cut on a taper at the lead edge.This cut away a lot more of the glued liner which allowed me to fish in a piece of wire loom ( which I purchased at a hardware store). I left the wire loom in place and this is what I ran the wires through to get past the head(Pic.#3). I removed the cup holder insert at the helm to access the aft and starboard side of the head to make sure the the loom passed the head and was exposed to be accessable (Pic #3 was taken from where the cup holder was removed). To feed wires from the engine room to the helm I removed the battery switch box (Pic.#6 was taken with the battery switch box removed) and feed the wires form the engine bay to the battery switch box then to where the cup holder insert was and then to the helm when I removed it.This way I was able to feed the wires and did not need a fish tape for it. If you remove these access areas first you should be able to do the same with little trouble.

 

Hope this helps if you need more let me know, if this works let us know or what you did.

 

Good Luck

 

Peter

[GetAway 0]

My boat is setup a bit different. I'll work on it. Thanks for your help.

 

Picture #6 & 7, did you use rubber on the deck to protect the gel coat? It appears the chain is going to drag on the gel coat in front of the winch when it's being let out or brought back in.

 

My battery selector switch is on the bulkhead in the middle of the engine compartment. I'm not sure what you call the battery box. If you mean a box that the battery sits in, mine are on the port side.

 

Thanks again Peter.

 

Mark

[Dodge06 0]

Mark,

 

I did not need to put anything in on the deck as the chain does not rub, it is hard to tell from the pictures but there is about 3 inches of clearence from the chain to the deck. When letting out the anchor the weight on the line from the anchor keeps the line tight and the same when retrieving the anchor. I have only 15 feet of chain on and the rest is rope.

 

I looked up your boat on line and it is set up different than mine, my battery selector switch is located on the starboard side of the cocpit under the table, it is in a box so I was able to remve the box to gain access to the starboard side of the boat between the hull and the cocpit. It looks like you have a storage well in the same location and it should be removeable with screws on the face of it. This allow you to access the area between the hull and the cocpit.

 

It looks like you would have the same drink holder/courtesy light compartment under the throttle that is also removeable to gain access near the helm. If you remove these you should have the access that you need.

 

Peter

 

 

[amanphoto 0]

I have a question regrarding your windlass install on your 250cr. Did you change the anchor roller on the bow to a tipping one? Does the anchor deploy all right on the stock roller?

[Fc Fos 0]

I recently installed a new windlass on my 2004 Monterey 245. I did not install a tilting roller, but I did have to buy a new chain and rope to match the windlass specifications. Once I did that I've had no issues with the rollers or guides.

[amanphoto 0]

Hi Mark,

 

I will refer to the pictures in my previous post.

 

As you see in Pic. #1 I removed the cabin head liner trim piece and fished form the cabin side back to the cocpit. Getting past the head was the hardest part as the head liner was glued to the hull and the head both. I used a piece of hard wood dowel which I put a taper on the leading edge to feed it through past the head and it pulled the liner away and then I feed a flat piece for wood about 1/4" x 1 1/2" cut on a taper at the lead edge.This cut away a lot more of the glued liner which allowed me to fish in a piece of wire loom ( which I purchased at a hardware store). I left the wire loom in place and this is what I ran the wires through to get past the head(Pic.#3). I removed the cup holder insert at the helm to access the aft and starboard side of the head to make sure the the loom passed the head and was exposed to be accessable (Pic #3 was taken from where the cup holder was removed). To feed wires from the engine room to the helm I removed the battery switch box (Pic.#6 was taken with the battery switch box removed) and feed the wires form the engine bay to the battery switch box then to where the cup holder insert was and then to the helm when I removed it.This way I was able to feed the wires and did not need a fish tape for it. If you remove these access areas first you should be able to do the same with little trouble.

 

Hope this helps if you need more let me know, if this works let us know or what you did.

 

Good Luck

 

Peter

Dodge06,

What was the thickness of the wedge at the thickest part? What did you do yo cut the angle?

 

Thanks

[amanphoto 0]

I'm installing a windlass on a 250cr. Same as a 245. My windlass installed without any shims, the rope comes into the windlass at about 6 deg. From what I've read. The rope should come in less then 5 degrees. So if I raised the front of my windlass up 1/2" then my rope angle is about right on.

[Dodge06 0]

Dodge06,

What was the thickness of the wedge at the thickest part? What did you do yo cut the angle?

 

Thanks

 

The wedge is 1/2" thick at the bow end of the windlass and 1/8" at the stern end. I did it this way so that the wedge would support the whole windlass and this way the wedge would be secured completely. I used a table saw to cut the wedge in a very creative way, then I finished it off with a belt sander to get it even all the way across the surface.

[amanphoto 0]

My Monterey 250cr windlass update. Thanks for all the info. Here is my set up....

 

 

Hardwear store plastic drain cover. Keeps rope out of locker puddle that doesn't drain.

 

Moved cleat over, patched holes, made a wedge to adjust rope angle, matched gel coat, and wired it up.

 

Made a wedge out of plexiglass. (note gelgoat doesn't stick well to plexi. I had to epoxy then gelcoat)

[GetAway 0]

Windlass Install 010.JPGWindlass Install 024.JPGWindlass Install 026.JPGWindlass Install 034.JPGWindlass Install 036.JPGWindlass Install 038.JPGWindlass Install 064.JPGWindlass Install 076.JPGWindlass Install 078.JPG

 

Dan,

 

The first picture - wire loom with wires running through that I used to get past the head.

The second picture - that I removed the trim piece and that is where I ran the wires behind, in the cabin.

The third picture - the wire loom on the aft side of the head under the helm.

The fourth picture - where the wires came through from the cabin into the anchor locker.

The fifth picture - the template on the mounting shelf in the anchor locker.

The sixth picture - the contactor mounted in behind the battery switches.

The seventh picture - the switch mounted on the dash.

The eight picture - the windlass mounted in the locker (NOTE the wedge under the windlass to keep the chain level over the bow of the boat).

The last picture - the anchor locker closed over the windlass.

 

Hope this helps if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask - I have alot more pictures and I will give you any other information you need.

 

Peter

 

Peter in your second picture, the trim piece above the window/porthole, how is it attached and how do you remove it? In your picture I need to get behind this section/trim piece. You have two sections, a short one then the next one heading forward is a long section.

 

My first section is a long section and I need to get to the wires behind this. I don't want to break the attaching point if there's a little trick to release the fastener. My wires for my windless, the forward navigation lights and horns. I want to tap into one of these to install a new CO detector. The detector draws about .16 mili-amps, no big draw and it's a bear to pull a new set of wires for such a small draw.

 

Thanks Peter,

 

Mark

[Dodge06 0]

Mark,

 

The trim piece is one full length. It is attached by screws that are under the fold over that you see along the length I think that there is either 4 or 5 of these. You just have to pull the fold out of the way and the screw will be exposed for you to remove it. Remove all of the screws and the trim piece will come right off.

 

Peter

[GetAway 0]

Mark,

 

The trim piece is one full length. It is attached by screws that are under the fold over that you see along the length I think that there is either 4 or 5 of these. You just have to pull the fold out of the way and the screw will be exposed for you to remove it. Remove all of the screws and the trim piece will come right off.

 

Peter

Peter thanks a million. I didn't pull enough of the covering over to see that there were screws holding it on.

 

Taking the boat out tomorrow for a three day fishing trip on the Columbia River. While on the hook I'll finish taping into a set of wires so I have 12 volts on the starboard side. That will allow me to have that CO detector there and an outlet to plug the TV into without having to have the TV's wire across the cabin to be plugged into the port side.

 

Thanks Peter!

[jfed 0]

Quick question.  How much line are you able to comfortably able to fit in the anchor locker with the windlass.  From what I read you need a 12" drop to prevent tangles.