Dan

Sounds like you just tripped the breaker. Not sure where it is on the 270....it might be near your battery switches. If you have a manual, it'll show you where the switch is, if not you can download the manual from this site. Good Luck Dan

In essence you are correct. My old 250cr and my current 282cr was/is set up the same way. If I remember correctly.....I THINK, I had to have both shore power outlets connected to run the stove....can't quite remember and we never use the stove on our current boat. As RSUMRTOY2 stated, just purchase a splitter and you'll be all set. Thats what I've done and it works fine.

If it has not rained, then there are 3 spots to start to look at. The A/C, the galley sink and the head sink drain. I suspect it's your A/C as you stated it's been used alot lately. Look at the pan under your A/C. That pan collects condensation that drips from the unit. There should be some water in it. Check to see that it is not overflowing as here should be a drain....it might be plugged. If any part of the unit is leaking, it should also be wet in that area under and around the A/C. If that area is ok, look under you sink's. On my old 250CR, I had a water connection under the head sind that was dripping and leaving my carpet wet. I had to take out the toilet paper dispensor to get to it.

Any update? Pictures????? Interested to see what it looks like Dan

When I first got my boat, I was able to get 52 mph on my GPS. 4 years later, all loaded up, I can easily run at 45mph. I rarely do it as I don't like to push it that hard.

My 282 has got the twin Mercruiser 5.0 Bravo III's. I found the attached chart from a Volvo Penta powered 282 on Boattest.com. Would my Mercruisers number be very comparable? .

It's a little different from mine but it looks like it's the inlet for your heat/AC. Turn your heat on and crank it up...or down for ac and you should feel / hear the pump running. The outlet should be on the starboard side just ahead of the helm. It only runs when it's actually cooling or heating.

Peter, You need to find a different WEB host for your picture or put it as an attachment so that we can see it. Dan

Blue will certainly look good. I did a test last year with blue and here's what mine looked like. . I wish I would have taken pictures when I did it this past winter (they are worth a thousand words). What you'll need is 4, (it might be 3....I just can't remember and my boat is 1 hr away) 1 foot strips for each side. The blue one's that Chis has will work perfect. Two of them will be joined together to make a 2 foot strip in the middle section. Take your vents off and CLEAN IT REAL good. You'll want to put the LED strips in between the flat areas that fit up against the boat. You'll see what I mean when you take it apart. The 3m sticky tape that are on the lights works pretty good but for assurance, I used a few dabs of the quick setting 3m 4200 white marine silicone sealant. Just make sure you don't put too much to cover the lights. I also use the sealant on both ends. As a test, if you want, you can scotch tape the lights and wireing in place and re-install a vent and then temp connect to a power source....just to see what it looks like before permanently mounting them. I then used tape to temp hold the wireing in place (I spliced all the lights together in one spot near the middle and left/added about a 6 foot piece). I used the 4200 sealant in a bunch of spots over the wireing to hold it in place. Once dry, removed the tape. For the port side, I held the vent close to the boat and I just stuck the wire through one of the round intake vents. I went in and out a couple of times so that if the wire got pulled, it wouldn't stress the connection. For the starboard side, I fed into the vent, did the wrap around thing and fed down one of the exhaust tubes. In the engine compartment, I took the tube off, grabbed and pulled the rest of the wire and the fit the tube back on. There's probably an easier way to do this.....once you look at it, you'll see what I mean. The rest is joining the wires together, hooking to a power source and running to a switch........good luck...let us know how you make out. . One last thing....when your happy with how they look, use that 4200 sealant and run a bead along the top of the vent so that it blocks light bleed through.

Glad your spending money....you can't take it with you. I should have taken pictures of my lighted vent install. It's pretty easy to do. Let me know when your ready I'll give you some pointers. Chis at coastal has the blue strips and they look really cool in the vents. Next time you talk to him, mention my name and that I'm over at THT forum. He'll know who I am.

So here's where I went throught on the starboard side Here's what it looks like on the inside for the port side After I tied everything together in the engine compartment, I ran wires up the radar arch to my switches. One green switch is for the vent lights, the other for the underwater. The white one is for some LED I put under the seat. . . Here is a better time exposure at night. . Last thing I did this weekend was silicone around the top of the vents so I wouldn't get bleed through.

I mounted them about 4 - 5 inches below the waterline. Drilled in a little less than 1/2" put a bunch of 3M marine silicone in and around the holes and also along the ribs of the lights. Then ran the wires up and through a little below the swim platform. Yes, I connected them all together near my power source. I was running some very thin wire from my switch so I hooked the lights up to a relay just to be safe. I'll take some more pictures this weekend and will post.

I used the double long (DL) on the outside and the double square (DS) on the inside from coastalnightlights.com for the underwater lights. For the vents, I used 4 1ft waterproof flexible strips from oznium.com as coastal could not get me green strip lights. I ran the wires up the radar arch and installed switches on the deck plate covers in the arch. If I ever sell or trade the boat and want to keep the lights, I can easily replace the deck plate covers. I'll take some pics of that this weekend. I went to green becuase I thought it would look better with my lighted palm tree. I used the new GEN III models for the lights stated above. Check the WEB site out, you'll see what I mean. I ran the wires up and went through above the waterline just under the swim platform. On the 282, there is not a whole lot of room in the engine compartment to get to the wires in the back but I used a long set of tongues that I use in my fish tank to pull them forward. Last year I replaced ALL my 12v lights with LED's. I found that at times, in the cockpit, it was just too bright so thi year I added some LED light strips under the aft seat to give that subtle lighting. It works pretty good but I think I'll also add some more in the helm area. Thanx for the comments guys....

Decided to change things up a bit this year. Picture is a little blurry. I'll take some better one this coming weekend. What do you guys think? .

It's from the galley and head sink drain.

Excellent info Rip....THANX. I didn't realize that the box itself was an Attwood. I knew Walmart sold the pumps but not the box. I have an extra pump so I think I'll just contact Attwood and order the cover. Once again, thank you. Dan

MOST, on my 2006 282CR, the tabs on the cover to the forward sump box are broken. Can you tell me who makes these and what the part number is. Attached is a pic of the sump box.

Check with any Monterey Dealer. I had a 2005 250cr with factory installed TV and can't for the life of me remember where the antenna was.

Yes it will. Here's what you're looking for. My link

The do make an adapter that'll fit. I use one to plug my shore power cord into my generator when off the grid however...kind of following up on what rsumrtoy2 stated, you also need to make sure you have the proper wireing at your dock. Depending on what you're trying to run (i.e. stove, a/c, micro etc.) you might have issues. Your dock outlet may not have the proper amperage. As an FYI, I use that same adapter with my shore power cord in the fall and spring when I bring my 282 home to winterize and get ready for summer. It'll charge the batteries and run the micro OK but I don't dare try the stove.

That is one SWEET boat. Someone at my marina bought one. Can't wait to see it this spring.

I've done it on my 282CR. I pulled all my lights to see what type they were. I then went to superbrightleds.com and purchased replacements. Pretty easy to do, much brighter and a lot more energy efficient.

Need more information here. What are you trying to power for 8+ hrs that needs 110v? If your power needs are just 12v items, then with a little bit of conservation, you should easily be able to get 8+ hrs. I know I do.

All 3 batteries being the same depends on your charger. It should be able to handle different batteries (trolling / starting) of the same type ie AGM / lead-acid etc.. I have 3 Interstate bats in mine, 2 (house) on the same circuit. My house batteries are deep cell and the other battery is a starting type. Been that way since 2008 and all 3 batteries are still very strong. My boat is a 282CR and would suspect that we have the same charger.

Very nice.....here are some pics of the light I got from CoastalNightLights.com. Right now I've only got 1 light in the middle. This spring I'll put 2 more on the outside. .