Rip5

Lake Michigan or inland lake boater ?

Just over 43mph (+/-) 3 mph)

Call Faria

Look on the Bowmar website. www.pompanette.com, there you will find the correct portholes. Often, you have to replace the whole assembly if individual screen is not sold.

Have a local shop make a replacement. Easier, cheaper, quicker and simpler

You do not need model numbers. a local shop can use your old one's, measure your boat and isenglass , and make them just like originals. I have done that twice with isinglass on our cruiser's.

I have always found BuffMagic to be one of the best. http://shurhold.com/buff-magic

There you go. I have had 2 Kenwood HU's both required a key to remove them. Guess not all do......

NADA is just a guide. Where you are located will change the value of the boat, and NADA will never reflect that, Just use NADA as a baseline for pricing, not as a bible. Check what similar boats sell for ( a dealer can tell you that), then consider your location and go from there. Over-analyzing every option the boat has to determine it's true value with NADA alone is not a good way to determine what a good price for the boat would be.

Mercruiser ???? Volvo Penta ??????

Probably Monterey's cabinet shop was the manufacturer. Easy to cut one yourself out of starboard, router the edges, hole saw the cup holders in, and add screws... Done

Confusing post, title says 322, text body says 233. By the picture, it is obviously a 233 EX. It really depends on how old the boat is. That hatch was likely made in the factory, and not outsourced from a supplier. If so, then depending on the year, you may not be able to order one from a local dealer, who will order it from the Monterey factory. That is the only way you will get an exact replacement. Highly unlikely you will find an aftermarket manufacturer that makes one exactly like your's. Most probable option, is have one fabricated at a local fiberglass shop, use your current one as a template/mold for the new one. If it is not broken, you could just add some new non-skid coating to it and call it good, which will be hundreds of dollars less than a new one, or fabricated one.

Thoughts ? 1.) No hour meter, not surprising 2.) Back then many builders did not include an hour meter in the engine compartment or in the gage cluster 3.) Buy your own and add it, that way you will know how many hours you put on at least.

I had a thought they did not sell parts for many of their portlights. Good luck with the install !

It would probably get you a more definitive answer, if you just asked a dealer what they would charge. They do it all the time on new and used boats, so they should have a better idea than anyone. Parts would likely be cheaper than the labor.

Echo........

Uhhh, if you look on the color chart on this website, you would see there is only one white color for 2009. It is Pearl White Ash. Spectrum part # 18001

Molded Portlight Flagship Series. Elliptical shape, I believe. You will have to measure and compare with your portlight to get the correct size. Then contact Bomar/Pompanette and see if you can buy the parts separately. Often, you have to replace the entire portlight. Here is the link. http://www.pompanette.com/pomp.nsf/0/E0FB71CA363B487A8525762400165D39?Open

You should have shown a picture of the actual cartridge, easier to tell if we could see it. As far as the faucet goes 90% of them are made by Sandvik. Does not have to be exact same style as you currently have, just get one you like with same spacing between handles etc. Something like this is plug and play. http://www.boatersplus.com/scandvik-70002.html?utm_source=shopzilla&utm_medium=cse&utm_content=LS-390-70002&utm_campaign=shopzilla&gclid=CMTa8pecmcUCFYI8aQodJ1oA1g

It looks like a standard Pontoon boat flush mounted light is about the same thing as you have on your 253EX. Just verify dimensions and depth are the same, and order away. http://www.replacementboatparts.com/OtherExteriorLights.aspx http://www.everythingpontoon.com/pontoon-boat-accessories/pontoon-boat-electrical-accessories-lighting/halogen-docking-light-flood-light-flush-mount-930.html

It depends on your elevation above sea level, what your max RPM is. F4 is a safe bet if you are not boating in the clouds.

I would save your money. a shiney anchor (SS) is hugely expensive, heavy, and holds no better than aluminum. Besides, the 18 seconds of time it takes you to pull out the anchor, toss it in, and set it, know one will be able to see how pretty it is when on the bottom of the lake. Stern anchor, same Danforth style aluminum as the bow anchor, but can be slightly smaller.

You will need to have one made. They are not available for purchase by the "each" quantity. if you want 100 of them, then you can order .

There are wiring diagrams in the owners manual, you can download it here on this Forum. Download the 246,265,286 manual, and look in section M-13 thru M-16

It's a 30 amp set up, do not use 50 amp. 90% of the time, you will not need two 30amp cords connected, unless you run 3 amplfiers, air conditioner, microwave, two TV's, One Xbox, all lights in cabin and cockpit at the same time.