GetAway

I googled this system because it is the same gauges that I have on my 242. I've read several reviews and all say this system starts out running okay then after a little while the numbers it delivers is all wrong. I'm going to go with a Flowscan system instead. It's the same cost and a little easier to use. The Faria system's Flow and Total buttons having multifunctions and I having CRS, I wouldn't be able to remember which set to press for which function.

I get water in mine too and I don't have any idea where it's coming from. The anchor locker has two holes in the bow that it drains from. I removed the stern drain plug and the metal that it screws into. I cleaned everything up and resealed it and I still end the day with water in the bilge. It isn't a lot of water but it's till water!

We have a 2000 242 CR with a Volvo Penta 5.7 GS engine. The fit and finish are fine. I'd like a bit more room in the engine bay. It was raw water cooled but I changed that and added FWC. The heat exchanger took up more room that I thought it would. I have to loose weight so I can stop getting stuck between the heat exchanger and the bulkhead. I would like more storage spaces like some draws around the frig and under the sink. Also some storage in the head but besides those two things my wife and I really enjoy the boat. We spend a couple of weeks in the San Juan Islands and Canada. I've run into some heavy seas going to Friday Harbor and also had an emergency and had to return to Port Townsend from Victoria Canada during small craft warnings and the sea looked like it was boiling. You couldn't tell where the waves were coming from. We were hit by one wave and the water splashed up onto the windshield once. Other than that one splash the boat road well and the seas were pretty rough. We were crossing the Straights of San Juan. We also cruise the Columbia River here in Oregon salmon fishing. You'll enjoy the 26, there's plenty of room for you and yours and I'm sure it's a very good riding and safe boat.

I wish I had as much room in my engine bay as you do. I can add another size 31 on the starboard side but that's it. That will give me 4 total.

Do you have a bulb number and/or place to purchase the LEDs? I'd like to replace the three in the lamps like the lamp that is broken in the first message in this thread. Thanks in advance, Mark

Still waiting to see those pictures.

Sometimes this valve gets stuck. If your unit cools while in the air cond. mode and when you switch to the heating mode and you do not get any heat then your reversing valve could be stuck. Tapping it with a soft hammer, not very hard just a couple of taps usually frees the valve up and it slide to the correct position. The same holds true when you go from heating to cooling, the valve could get stuck in the heating mode and a tap or two will free it up and it will shift to the cooling mode. Your unit is like a heat pump used in homes and other buildings, it cools and heats. If you talk to someone that is in the air condition heating business they could explain it better to you than I am here.

I found two heaters from Heater Craft sold by Defender.com Marine Outfitter at a good price. One is a 28,000 btu unit and the other is a 40,000 btu heater. Both use the water from you engines cooling system. It works with both a raw water and freshwater-closed water systems. They have a 3 speed fan and hardware to install. I'm looking into the 28,000 btu unit. It's salmon fishing time and it's cold and wet out there. We here in Oregon don't tan, we rust!!

How did you hook these extra batteries up? Did you tie into your starting batteries? Does you engine and/or battery charger charge these? I'd like to add a couple more to my system but I don't have the room for them. It's pretty tight in a 242's engine compartment.

I have a 242 Cruiser, single engine with two batteries. On the battery selector switch #1 battery is the aft battery. I installed a 225 ah deep cell Trojan battery that I was going to add to the forward battery which is #2 on the switch. I am going to use battery #1 just for starting the engine. I am going to connect the frig. to bank #2 so it can run all night without having to worry about draining any of the banks. I have a Charles battery charger that will charge three banks. At the present time I have all three batterys being charged by this charger. When I add the 225 to battery #2 I will disconnect the charger from the 225 and leave it connected to the #2 battery. The charger should be able to charge both batteries as a bank on #2. I'll let you know how it all works out once I'm finished. It's too wet around here right now to work on the boats electrical system without getting soak and wet.

Dan looking at the picture you provided, how do you remove the bulb in that light that's in the picture to the right of the A/C controls? Thanks, Mark

I have the Taylor Made canvas sets. Go to their site and you can see the two types of sets you can have. I have both. Each use a windshield extenstion up from the windshield to the front bimini. The front bimini zips up to the rear bimini. There are four side windows plus an aft curtain that has full windows and zips on the starboard side to make a door. This makes a full camper set. I also have a rear canvas that zips to the front bimini and slops down towards the rear of the boat over the rear seat. There is one window in the middle of this canvas and no rear side curtains, just the front side curtains and windshield extension. Plus I have the mooring cover that covers the full cockpit. All of these windows/curtains zip to each other at the top and sides of each other and all fasten at the bottom of each piece to the boat by snaps.

I have a 2000 242 CR on an EZ Loader galvanized duel axle trailer with spare tire. It has a 22 lb anchor with 20 feet of chain and 160 feet of rode. Fully loaded with cooking supplies, a full water tank, double Bimini with side and aft curtains, shore power cable, 50 feet of water hose and an EU2000i Honda generator, I tip the scales at 7100 lbs. weight at a truck scale.

I found some depth markers on the internet made out of vinyl. You put these between the strands in your rode so you can tell how many feet of rode that you let out. They are a little thicker than paper and go through the windless without any problems or hang ups and they don't tear. The depths are in three different colors, green up to 100 feet then red, then yellow. Sure is easy to let out the correct amount of rode without having to guess how much you've already payed out. If I remember correctly I believe I paid less than $10.00 for the set. I left a comment on the selling site to us the US Post office to send me the set otherwise the UPS shipping charge was almost the price of the marker set.

MOST I have a 2000 242 CR and I'm missing the windlass wrench, it was not with the boat when I purchased it from the previous owner. Do you have any contact information as to where I might get a wrench just in case I need it in the future? Thank you, Mark

My temp gauge stopped working. I contacted Faria and was told in order to buy a new gauge I had to order it via West Marine. Faria does not sell direct. You order it through West Marine and Faria ships it from their plant in Conn. to you. (drop ship)

I have a 2000 242 foot cruiser with a 5.7 GS Volvo engine with FWC, three batteries, one start and two house, with an SX duel prop out-drive, on a 2000 EZ Loader galvanized, duel axle trailer. Fully loaded with 70 gallons of gas, 20 gallons of water, 13" TV, cooking pans, food, cloths etc.. total weight 7300 lbs. including the trailer. While in the water and using the toilet that adds more weight. My holding tank is 20 gallons but I usually have it pumped out and only a gallon of water when the boat is on the trailer.Click on the picture to make it larger.

Look inside of your head (bathroom) and at the floor. You'll see a floor drain. This floor drain goes to that box you are asking about. Lift the cover that will expose the box and look at the hose that goes into the box. Follow the hose from the box and you'll see it goes into your head. There is a switch and a pump inside of that plastic box that drains the water out. This system is to drain the water from your head when you are using the shower. Take a hose or a bucket of water or use your shower and pour water it into the drain in your head (bathroom) and you should hear that pump inside of the box turn on. After it does, go to the outside of your boat and find the scupper (drain) that is on the side of your boat. It should be made of metal and silver in color. The one that is wet is the scupper that is the drain for the pump for your shower or inside of that plastic box. There is a filter in that box too that will collect the hair or anything else that goes down that drain and into that box. Clean it out once in a while. Also for your toilet, do NOT put anything into that toilet that has not been eaten! No paper, toys, NOTHING!

I have a 2000 242 CR that has little plastic spot lights for lighting. How do you remove the bulbs on these lights? What bulbs are used in these types of lights?

I'm a bit late in a thank you reply. I didn't add this discussion to my watch list. I'm going to make the gasket that I need. It's nice to know that I might be able to find what I need at Home Depot or Lowes etc. Again, thanks for the reply. For some reason you don't see a lot of replys to many of the messages entered on this sight and we all have Monterey boats!!

I just bought a Honda generator. Can you fill me in with what you know about this floating ground? I have not heard about this. Thanks, Mark 2000 Monterey 242 CR

The BBQ's that I've seen, both round and rectangle, have brackets that you buy (extra) that allow you to attach to the rails, or to fishing pole holders. I've seen some people use a base and pole, much like the base and pole of a table and place the base in the swim ladder hatch between the ladder rungs. When not in use they unscrew the pole and the base is hidden behind the hatch that closes over the ladder. The biggest seller of grills is the Magma company. There are one or two others but Magma is the one I see mostly.

The covers that are on my 2000 242 CR were made by Great Lakes Boat Covers in Tenn. They have a web site.

The head sink leaks. Where can I find the gasket that's against the sink itself? Who makes the drain parts? The gasket and also the rubber part that the hose is connected to?

Volvo's web site says the engine can be run on E10 or 10% ethanol-blend. My boat is a 2000 242 CR. I'm on a trailer. I filled up at a station that had 97 octane and NOT blended with ethanol. I'm in Oregon and this was two weeks ago and I paid $4.30 a gallon for 50 gallons. I'm sure the price has gone up in the past couple of weeks. Most of the fuel docks in my area sell non-blended fuel and you can find it at many of the fuel docks at the coast in both Oregon and Washington. I have a fuel filter that also has a water filter/area at the bottom of the filter so I can drain any water that might be in the fuel but so far I have not seen any. It's not a bad idea to add a chemical to your fuel that conditions the fuel. It raises the cost per gallon of your fuel but I'd rather pay a little more for the protection than be stuck 5 miles off of the coast with a dead engine.